Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Ball joint pulled... noob dance begins...


Recommended Posts

First time for me to do suspension/steering stuff, got as far as Ball joint, hmmmm... didn't budge so I noobied it... ;) ,

 

I know you would get a kick out of this as it seems like a bit of over kill... but hey.. it worked.

 

I got about 2 ft of chain and slid center link on Ball joint stud followed by washer and nut. Got 20ft of 2" gal pipe and supported from ball joint as close as I could below ball joint useing a 1/2" bolt to form a hanger for the pipe. About 3 ft from end I blocked with wood between frame jacking point on car and pipe.. Pounded in a wedge at ball joint that is used on wood hammer head replacement (see in joint) and squirted night before with panther piss/penetrating spray. Placed jack on solid wood off rollers and lifted on strut about 3" to take stress off top strut mount. I got wife at far end of pipe and she pushed down on pipe with foot till it bowed too the concrete. I took hammer and beat pipe down next to chain...(nothing)...:-\ ..didn't budge so I got a BFH and a killer swing... pop....:Flame:

 

 

 

 

Ball_joint-2.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sure looks like it worked. But in the future, all you need is a bigger, blunter, wedge to spread the steering knuckle where it clamps on the ball joint. It also helps to leave the Ball joint bolted to the lower control arm. Hammer a wedge into that slot. Try to go in at an angle so the wedge tip doesn't seat into the groove on the ball joint. Then you can basically stand on the lower control arm and push it down out of the knuckle. put a jack under the knuckle to keep it up while you push down. it should not require the kind of force you used. get a better wedge. (maybe use an XT6? LOL)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Besure to clean the rust out of the steering nuckle where the ball joint seats with some penatrating oil and emery paper. If you do use never-seize/anti-seize, I wouldn't recomment using alot of it. Just a light coating on the ball joint, and a dab on the bolt threads. i've never had such a problem with getting the ball joints out myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sure looks like it worked. But in the future, all you need is a bigger, blunter, wedge to spread the steering knuckle where it clamps on the ball joint.

 

Good info for next one... I wasn't sure of how much I could spread it with out possibly breaking, being cast iron and all.... but figured no way should it have been that tough so more wedge on the next one.

 

Dave & Dain, will do with the anti-seize etc... Thanks for the replys...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dain']Besure to clean the rust out of the steering nuckle where the ball joint seats with some penatrating oil and emery paper. If you do use never-seize/anti-seize' date=' I wouldn't recomment using alot of it. Just a light coating on the ball joint, and a dab on the bolt threads. i've never had such a problem with getting the ball joints out myself.[/quote']

 

My uncle in wyoming was horrified by the amount of rust and rust-welding that had gone on on my two steering knuckles. Anti-seize coat depends on geographical location. Don't pry too hard on the gap the pinch bolt tightens. I cracked my knuckle doing that, which turned it into instant junk. Luckily I had a spare. The pinch bolts snap off pretty easy too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...