daeron Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 I just finally read this thread all the way through, and all there is to say is this... You are one of the ultimate old-skool gear-heads, man.. you have taken everything you liked from 10-12 years of subaruism, and built it into your own vehicle. What a machine you are making, my friend... the suspension mods, the gearbox, the engine swap... I *really* must suggest that once you get all the bugs worked out, you pull the engine out and paint the engine bay, or spray it with a liner of some sort.. This beast deserves to look like she is brand new once you are done, because she will be in all essential aspects. a 2007 Phizinza Brumbeast! Have you ever looked into the foam roller/Rustoleum enamel painting idea? it seems like a good way to get a tough, yet attractive paint job on the cheap. Unless I am mistaken, the CEL should come on when you turn the key to on, before trying to start it. If it doesn't, it is usually a sign that there is something wrong with the light circuit itself. I'm not sure if you have really ironed that bug out yet, but I thought I would mention it. Here's to hoping I can accomplish my goals on my Z (once I get to start) as completely as you have accomplished (are accomplishing) yours! oh yah, and brothers are a great resource, aren't they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 oh yah, and brothers are a great resource, aren't they? Hell yeahs! I have the CEL light working good now. I need to take a picture of where it is to show you all. I would paint it up all nice but she's a through and through rough offroader. New paint covered in mud looks just like old paint covered in mud But I know what your saying, I was thinking a new paint job all over would give her a bit more prettyness. But then I would be worried about scratches.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 So i pulled off the IAC valve and cleaned it with WD40 and kiro. Before I cleaned it I could feel a ever so slight lump or two while turning it. After it was clean it felt smooth. So I put it back on, set the throttle body idle to 600rpm, then used the IAC adjustment to bring it upto 900rpm. This way I figure it won't/shouldn't idle below 600rpm, even if the valve fails again. I have only been on a short test drive and I didn't rev it up but the ECU does that constant flash thing at me (thats error free flashing right?) But without the black CEL connectors plugged in the CEL light is still on. This is confusing me now. I'm going to go back to my info I downloaded to learn what the green connectors do again... Isn't it something like another set of codes? Anyway, the idle is pretty steedy now and the low end power (800 to 1400rpm) is pretty good compared to my EA81. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 learn what the green connectors do again... When the green single pole connectors are connected, the ECU begins displaying any codes. Unplugged, nothing should happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 25, 2007 Author Share Posted March 25, 2007 When the green single pole connectors are connected, the ECU begins displaying any codes. Unplugged, nothing should happen. Isn't that what the black connector does? I've been slack and haven't taken the Brumby for a drive in a couple of days now. So after I reset the ECU I'm not sure if the codes will come up again.. I have to go for a test drive soon I guess. Everything I read so far about the green connector is it does what the black connector does on my car... hmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Isn't that what the black connector does? yea, black *should* be read, and green *should* be test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Then it was time to move onto the gearbox crossmember. I had already cut the EA82 version down to match the EA81 version a couple of days ago, but it needed reinforcing and some holes drilled. So, out came the angle grinder and 40x2mm bar steel. Then got my bro to weld it up.Results.. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/gearbox_crossmember_conversion1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/gearbox_crossmember_conversion2.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/gearbox_crossmember_conversion3.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/gearbox_crossmember_conversion4.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/gearbox_crossmember_conversion5.jpg Sorry, no pictures of it in as yet as the paint is still drying. So I'll do that tomorrow. You said this couldn't be done on a stock vehicle. Why not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_postie Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Sounds like you've nearly got it sorted.You are gunna love the low end offroad.Any ea ej'd is a absolute pleasure to drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 You said this couldn't be done on a stock vehicle. Why not? I said that? Sorry, my mind has gone everywhere on this project and some of what I said might just be rubbish. The only reasons I think I might of said that is I don't run a antisway bar (took it off and noticed almost no change:-\) or it might be cos I'm using a lift kit, I don't know.. I can't think why the crossmember I made wouldn't work on a normal subie now. Yeah, almost set.. The propshaft has died on me (well it was a dead one to start with but all I had) so I need a new one. And I'm pretty sure the engine is running much better now with no errors (touch wood.) Although I think theres a slight rough idle, but it seems to sit at 900 now.. just a little rough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Subaru Liberty(Legacy) gearbox casing, which is running a normal EA82 diff with 23splines and a normal EA82 gearset, but it is running the ring gear, pinion shaft and centre diff locker from a turbo EA82 car. ! does this mean I could put a Dual range setup into a legacey 5 speed AWD box ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 does this mean I could put a Dual range setup into a legacey 5 speed AWD box ?? I think he started with a d/r ej tranny, but I could be mistaken, then put the ea82 stuff in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 does this mean I could put a Dual range setup into a legacey 5 speed AWD box ?? Here in Australia we got EJ22's with dual range out of the factory. So, you could, if you were willing to pay for a import box. But I think you may be able to do it with just the casing. You may need the input gearset+low range gears as well if you do not plan to use AWD VLSD center and instead use a PT4WD setup or a FT4WD locking diff setup. I gotta go, so I might elaborate on this more later if you don't understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 So i pulled off the IAC valve and cleaned it with WD40 and kiro. Before I cleaned it I could feel a ever so slight lump or two while turning it. After it was clean it felt smooth. So I put it back on, set the throttle body idle to 600rpm, then used the IAC adjustment to bring it upto 900rpm. This way I figure it won't/shouldn't idle below 600rpm, even if the valve fails again. I have only been on a short test drive and I didn't rev it up but the ECU does that constant flash thing at me (thats error free flashing right?) But without the black CEL connectors plugged in the CEL light is still on. This is confusing me now. I'm going to go back to my info I downloaded to learn what the green connectors do again... Isn't it something like another set of codes? Anyway, the idle is pretty steedy now and the low end power (800 to 1400rpm) is pretty good compared to my EA81. So... guess what.. Code 24 is back with it's same symptoms. Looked good for a while. Then on a long drive the car almost stooled when I came to a stop and then it started that fuel cut thing under lead foot driving. And now the light comes on and goes out randomly. Not for a second or two, but will come on, and then 5min later go out, then ages later come back on.. What do you reckon I should check next? I'll see if I can find another ECU cheap or borrow one to test if it's that. It could be wiring I guess (crap, I would hate to pull the loom out ) seems it is a little intermittent. It's getting on my nerves now. I don't want to spend a thrid what the whole conversion has cost me on a new stupid IAC valve. What about tricking the computer that it's there and then plugging the hole up and using a good old fasion idle screw only?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 So... guess what.. Code 24 is back with it's same symptoms. Looked good for a while. Then on a long drive the car almost stooled when I came to a stop and then it started that fuel cut thing under lead foot driving. And now the light comes on and goes out randomly. Not for a second or two, but will come on, and then 5min later go out, then ages later come back on.. What do you reckon I should check next? I'll see if I can find another ECU cheap or borrow one to test if it's that. It could be wiring I guess (crap, I would hate to pull the loom out ) seems it is a little intermittent. It's getting on my nerves now. I don't want to spend a thrid what the whole conversion has cost me on a new stupid IAC valve. What about tricking the computer that it's there and then plugging the hole up and using a good old fasion idle screw only?. EEEK, the motor/sensor on top of the unit has probably got a short in it. Are there any legacy/liberty's you could sneak the iac off of for a test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 EEEK, the motor/sensor on top of the unit has probably got a short in it. Are there any legacy/liberty's you could sneak the iac off of for a test? A mate of mine has a 1990 auto, it should have the same part. I might try and borrow it when I next see him. Of cause, I don't want to bugga his up too. Hmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 A mate of mine has a 1990 auto, it should have the same part. I might try and borrow it when I next see him. Of cause, I don't want to bugga his up too. Hmm AFIK, they are the same on all the 90-94(89-93? over there). If its a malfunction with your part, and not wiring related, there is zero chance of hurting his. Probable about 2% chance even if it is wire related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 Only thing I'm worried about is melted wires because stupid me hooked the ECU's rad fan controller to the fans.. I have no idea why I didn't think that it would be relayed and the Brat's wouldn't be.. I have made quite a few stupid mistakes with wiring doing this conversion. Oh, I also got my old bash plate to fit with the new EJ sump.. Broke two hammers doing it.. but it fits! And strangely doesn't look to smashed up?! I'll have to get pictures of it, not that it looks much different then stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 Well, the fact that it worked for a little while makes me think its the iac faulty itself, not wiring. But stranger things have happened. However if the ecu was burnt up, I doubt it would do much of anything, like uberoo's bad ecu. I came to the conclusion I'm going to need my stock guard down there as well. With it bolted on its about 4 inches from the ground now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 However if the ecu was burnt up, I doubt it would do much of anything, like uberoo's bad ecu.I was told that it might of not burnt the ECU, but the wire.. So I was maybe worried that it melted itself and other wires causing these problems.. But really that is a long shot, and I'll only look into that after looking at another IAC and/or ECU. I would really just love to cut the IAC out, I can't see how it can do a important job.. It just auto adjusts idle, and I never had a issue with that on my carby. I'll have to look at what sort of signal/voltage the ECU is expecting from the IAC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_postie Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 i've had similar probs.Check the ignition relay.This supplies power to the iac also to the o2 sensor and the purge.This is what was happening in my case the relay was letting about 3 volts thru to the side that supplies o2 iac and purge and full voltage to ign side ,it showed as a 35 and 24 code .I could tap it or turn it off and it would sometimes work.Once the relay was replaced the problem went away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 i've had similar probs.Check the ignition relay.This supplies power to the iac also to the o2 sensor and the purge.This is what was happening in my case the relay was letting about 3 volts thru to the side that supplies o2 iac and purge and full voltage to ign side ,it showed as a 35 and 24 code .I could tap it or turn it off and it would sometimes work.Once the relay was replaced the problem went away. Yeah... Sorry, I forgot you said that. I will check that next.. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 29, 2007 Author Share Posted March 29, 2007 Heres a pic of where I hammered the bashplate.. I forgot to get a pic of it on, but you pretty much know what it looks like anyway.. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_sump_bashplate.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 31, 2007 Author Share Posted March 31, 2007 Alright. Done some testing on the IAC... First up, eliminate EJ loom main relay. Instead of spending $40 on a second hand OEM Subaru relay, with running a risk of it not being wrong, I tested it with bypass wires. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_main_relay_testbypass.jpg I took the car for a drive with the relay in and running it. Then when the CEL came on and the fuel cut at full throttle came in I turned the car off, took the relay out and put the wires in (just crimp connectors on large speaker wire.) I took off and soon after the CEL came back on and the fuel cut came in again.. Heres something I thought was interesting, the CEL goes out after a while (along with the fuel cut.) And then a while later of driving, it comes back on... So, relay eliminated. Next was to make sure the IAC always was getting 12V+. So I hooked up a wire into stuffed the IAC's plug. Then ran that with another wire to the inside of the car, along with a mulitmeter. Took the car for a drive, this time it took about 10mins before the CEL came on, but it still came on.. And when it was on, the IAC was getting a very constant 13.7X volts. So the IAC is getting good volts at all times. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_iac_volttesting.jpg Next I think I need to check the signal into the ECM when the light is out, and then when it comes back on see what it reads. My manual says the two wires for the IAC are in B44, number 1 and 2. I have no idea how I'm going to check these while I'm driving and while the CEL is on, maybe wait till tonight when my brother can help. It's just annoying how it comes and goes randomly now.. I think the volts going from the IAC to the ECU should be between 6 and 10 volts depending on if it's closed or open. Another interesting fact is the car idles fine now, even though the CEL is coming on every so offen. And, yes, the ECU has code 24 still stored in it. I was trying to wipe the codes but I forgot I left the IAC unpluged so it kept coming up with code 24 right away. Silly me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_postie Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 to test the connecter at the ecu use sewing pins pressed into the wires you want to test ,connect wire to these and alligater clips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 to test the connecter at the ecu use sewing pins pressed into the wires you want to test ,connect wire to these and alligater clips.Didn't think about that... Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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