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I am looking at buying a clutch kit off ebay. What all should be included with these? I'm looking at one from gripforce clutches for $152 shipped that has

  • Exedy Pressure Plate
  • Exedy Clutch Disc
  • Release Bearing
  • Pilot Bearing
  • Alignment Tool

Are there any other parts I would need? cable? probably rear seperator plate if mine is plastic.

I have found a local shop willing to let me bring in the parts and they will do it for $350 cash.

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I am looking at buying a clutch kit off ebay. What all should be included with these? I'm looking at one from gripforce clutches for $152 shipped that has
  • Exedy Pressure Plate
  • Exedy Clutch Disc
  • Release Bearing
  • Pilot Bearing
  • Alignment Tool

Are there any other parts I would need? cable? probably rear seperator plate if mine is plastic.

I have found a local shop willing to let me bring in the parts and they will do it for $350 cash.

 

The cable is not needed unless yours is damaged, and it's not a whole lot easier to replace with the transmission out. I'd wait on that, unless you've really got the urge to preventatively spend $20-30. A new clutch fork boot might be needed- you can check the condition on the topside of the transmission to see if it's worn out.

 

You should order new throwout bearing clips (about $3); they don't come in bearing kits usually and they're easy to lose or break.

 

Definitely order a new metal plate, and make sure you're getting the right thing. I had to reuse my plastic plate because the idiot dealer near me ordered the plastic part (despite my specific request for the updated part #), never acted on SOA's part update message, and neglected to tell me that my order was thus cancelled. That's what I get for living near a mega-dealer who makes Subaru parts share the counter with Mopar morons :-\

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I disagree. Its kind of silly to do all that work on the clutch and then have a cable snap (been there done that have the tow bill). replace the cable, especially if there are a lot of miles on it. if there are less then 100K on the cable then you can stay with the original one.

 

Good news is that i can't find anything bad about them on the web. there are a few other clutch kits sold on ebay that are pure garbage.

 

 

nipper

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when it comes to upgraded clutches its hard to go wrong with exedy, they have one of the best pedal feels i've ever experienced, have personally had two on honda vehicles but i've driven a wrx, and 99 leg gt with them. they are great value for the money, i'd like to know how it would feel with a cabled clutch because even the hydro's i've been around have been a little harder to push

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Valeo is OK as well; it's what I just put in. I knew this in advance, but the factory clutch that came out was also stamped "Valeo." I think Exedy also does OEM for Subaru (maybe does more nowadays than before) but don't overlook Valeo if the price difference is huge.

 

As for cables- there's no guarantee a new cable will be trouble-free. If it ain't broke...

What I was really saying though, was that having the transmission or engine pulled isn't going to matter much in terms of a clutch cable job. You can run the cable with it all in the car for the same amount of work. As for tows, hey, that's what the extra $10-20 you should be paying a year for car insurance with towing coverage is for.

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if you are really worried about one breaking keep an extra in the car, but my 90 leg donor car has 218k with all the service papers and reciepts, i got bored one day and looked through them all and never saw a clutch cable replaced in its life span

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if you are really worried about one breaking keep an extra in the car, but my 90 leg donor car has 218k with all the service papers and reciepts, i got bored one day and looked through them all and never saw a clutch cable replaced in its life span

 

 

Make murphies law work for you, i did that with the ignitor in my 87, and a ballast resistor in an old chrysler.

 

 

nipper

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If a clutch cable snaps, you can still drive the car. We had a hydro line pop on a jeep once, and we drove it out of the woods with no pedal. Had to forward and reverse a couple of times to make it around trees. Shut the engine off, put it in reverse, start it up, shut it off, put it in forward, start it up. It isn't the end of the world if the cable snaps, and it's easy to replace later.

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If a clutch cable snaps, you can still drive the car. We had a hydro line pop on a jeep once, and we drove it out of the woods with no pedal. Had to forward and reverse a couple of times to make it around trees. Shut the engine off, put it in reverse, start it up, shut it off, put it in forward, start it up. It isn't the end of the world if the cable snaps, and it's easy to replace later.

 

have you ever tried driving a stick in bumper to bumper traffic stop and go traffic with no clutch?

 

I did and let me tell you its not doable.

 

I have also had a cable snap in vw during non rush hour, and that was more managable.

 

Things dont break when its convient to you, usually when its inconvient.

Better to replace them on your terms.

 

nipper

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Opinion: Cable on my 80 wagon was a mild pain to change. On my 91 Legacy was a royal double MF'n pain-getting the cable thru the firewall and such-NO WAY would do as a roadside repair.

 

FYI yes the clips that hold the fork to the TO bearing break or "evaporate" and need to have spares, but my LUK clutch set came with a set, saved my rump roast and a day(on Sunday) as the clips are a dealer only part.

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