Prospeeder Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 ok, in auto i got the whole thing apart, but my auto teacher says, if i never want to have to do this for a long time, or ever, that i should use this Anorberic (SPelling?) THe stuff that doesnt harden unless its not exposed to oxygen and turns to a plasticy sort of sealer. He wants me to put a thing layer of that on the gaskets, both sides. Should i do this? or am i asking for it to fail, i REALLY need this thing to just stop leaking, im not into doing this Again. Also, is there a torque sequence, i know its 14-16 lbs, but what order should i torque them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Dealer only. NO SEALANT. The proper gaskets are graphite impregnated metal - just like a head gasket. And just like the HG's, they are designed to be installed dry. Clean the mating surfaces with a wire wheel. Clean the bolts with a wire wheel, and chase the threads in the heads with a tap. Torque to 12-14 ft/lbs with a 3/8" torque wrench. There's no sequence. If you use the cheap cardboard aftermarket gaskets then probably use a sealer on them - but they will fail no matter what you use. There's a reason Subaru doesn't make them from cardboard. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 +1 no sealer. I installed mine dry and took my time making sure both mating surfaces were clean and flat. No leaks yet!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 I'll add that I have NEVER had a properly installed OEM gasket fail. I've blown TWO sets of Fel-Pro cardboard units....:-\. They just didn't do their homework on those. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 ok thier dealer gaskets, so no on the sealer. I got brand new bolts from the dealer. So ill make sure everything clean and what not then, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 What's the Subaru part number for the intake gaskets? I need to pick up a set for the hatch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 besides a wire wheel what can i use, like a 600 grit sanding block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Wire wheel works best. Sanding removes too much material, and unless done very carefully with a perfectly flat surface will result in a warped surface. That, and 600 grit wouldn't do squat. It would clog too easily. Get a wire wheel. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 I will repeat, don't forget to clean the threads in the heads out with a thread chaser. You should have one in your shop, hopefully. If not, "to do it right" as your teacher said, you should go buy one. The new OEM bolts are worthless if you forget that. good luck convincing your teacher that the internet was right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 know exactly what size it it, there too small for anything my shop has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 no, I don't.. but haven't you got the bolts? :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 8mmx1.25 GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casioqv Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 ok, in auto i got the whole thing apart, but my auto teacher says, if i never want to have to do this for a long time, or ever, that i should use this Anorberic (SPelling?) THe stuff that doesnt harden unless its not exposed to oxygen and turns to a plasticy sort of sealer. It wouldn't hurt if you coated the gaskets with the same non-hardening sealant used to join the two block halves, but it's probably not needed as other people said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 It wouldn't hurt if you coated the gaskets with the same non-hardening sealant used to join the two block halves, but it's probably not needed as other people said. Actually it will hurt - you will prevent the graphite from bonding with the aluminium. If properly installed, dissasembly should result in the destruction of the gasket as it bonds to the aluminium sufaces like a head gasket would. This is why the surfaces must be COMPLETELY clean. All the failures I've seen were related to cheap gaskets or poorly prepared mating surfaces. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 oh i wont do that then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 If you ever think there might be a remote possibility that somebody somewhere down the line might have to pull the intake again, use anti-seize on the bolts. If you didn't break a bolt taking it off, you're extremely lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Dain Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 So are the intake gaskets on an EA81 the same as EA82--OEM graphite? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 the first time i did it, it broke a bolt, that time i used antisieze so this time they came out fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 ALWAYS use antiseize on your intake bolts, they break so easy after 150k miles. It's a B(female dog)h to drill out and rethread or helicoil.( I like Helicoil cuz they will last way longer than crappy soft aluminum thread. Especially when you dismantle and reinstall occasionally)(sp?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 If you ever think there might be a remote possibility that somebody somewhere down the line might have to pull the intake again, use anti-seize on the bolts. If you didn't break a bolt taking it off, you're extremely lucky. +++1! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Actually it will hurt - you will prevent the graphite from bonding with the aluminium. If properly installed, dissasembly should result in the destruction of the gasket as it bonds to the aluminium sufaces like a head gasket would. This is why the surfaces must be COMPLETELY clean. All the failures I've seen were related to cheap gaskets or poorly prepared mating surfaces. GD Indeed..... If you have to use sealent, it must be one that will set, like a copper sealant. Non setting goo is for use on paper gaskets and the like only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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