J A Blazer Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Relatively new-to-me 2000 4-cyl OBW w/ 101K. I had been postponing the 90K service (other than oil & filter, transmission fluid & filter, air filter, all which I have done) hoping to combine it with the 105K timing belt service, but car is now not running right - it frequently bogs down and sounds like a mis-fire. What would most likely explanation be? Plugs, wires, fuel filter, valve adjustment, something else? I'm going to start by changing the fuel filter; any special precautions I need to take? Would also appreciate name of competent independent Subaru mechanic in Northern Virginia; I can't afford what the dealers want to charge. TIA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Are you getting any CEL codes thrown? You can pretty easily change the basic stuff like fuel filter, plugs and wires yourself for a start to see if that cures the misfire. Is it when engine is only cold or only warm or all of the time? Or intermittent? give us more specific observations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtsmiths Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Are you getting any CEL codes thrown? You can pretty easily change the basic stuff like fuel filter, plugs and wires yourself for a start to see if that cures the misfire. Is it when engine is only cold or only warm or all of the time? Or intermittent? give us more specific observations. Yah, if you don't know the cars hostory just do plugs and wires, it needs it anyhow. Easy to do ... OEM only! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 How's about a going bad knock sensor? Did '00 get the updated design? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 Thanks for the quick responses. Happens when car is warm. Intermittent. Wires appear to be original; plugs probably haven't been changed since 30K; fuel filter probably hasn't been changed since 30K; check engine light flickered the first time this happened several days ago and is now on steadily but I haven't pulled any codes yet. Do I have to relieve any pressure in the fuel system before changing the fuel filter? How hard is it to change the plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 What are the symptoms of a bad knock sensor? Mine was replaced by the previous owner about 60K or so ago. I made one interesting observation - the first time this problem occurred several days ago, after a particularly noticeable 'pop' from the engine compartment, I noticed that the center clip on the air filter box had sprung open. Related, or mere coincidence? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Maybe your need to look into replacing the PCV valve. I think that this could have caused that "pop" off - especially if it was clogged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downbound Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 you say the cel flickered then went steady...think a flashing cel that then goes steady indicates a misfire..mine did .. check the codes first before changing anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhorse001 Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 .. check the codes first before changing anything I agree, Swapping parts in ANY EFI engine without pulling the codes is just throwing $$$ at a problem. Add in some pretty expensive sensors & you end up throwing wads of cash away & possibly not fixing the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Luke .... use the codes luke..... use the codes.... Get the codes scanned. It can be an o2 sensor, or knock sensor, or a combination. i'm betting knock sesnor, but pull the codes first. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Probably hasn't been done before so likely due and a darned cheap and easy fix. I've been told that if you take it off and shake it and can hear the valve rattle, it's probably still OK. look into replacing the PCV valve. I think that this could have caused that "pop" off - especially if it was clogged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 i've heard the same thing, but they only cost 7$!!!!!!!!!!! why on earth would you different logic for a 7$ pcv when we always say "change the wires, it needs it". they cost 45+$. it's always challenging when you buy a used car. Probably hasn't been done before so likely due and a darned cheap and easy fix. I've been told that if you take it off and shake it and can hear the valve rattle, it's probably still OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 What I hoped to infer was that while the suggestion to change the PVC was a cheap and easy fix, by rattling the valve, you might also be able to immediately differentiate whether the PCV was the problem and not just another of many things that should/could be done. By the way John, your ! key seems to be stuck or dragging. i've heard the same thing, but they only cost 7$!!!!!!!!!!! why on earth would you different logic for a 7$ pcv when we always say "change the wires, it needs it". they cost 45+$. it's always challenging when you buy a used car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 By the way John, your ! key seems to be stuck or dragging. no, that's not the key board, it's my brain. i was beginning to think i knew something about repairing cars, when in fact i'm just a beginner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 I'm doing the plugs and wires tonight. Should I use anti-seize on the plugs? Torque setting? TIA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Torque 13-17 ft -lb as per the FSM anti- sieze is okay, just don't get it on the electrode Manarius might have thought you said "lock-tite"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted February 10, 2007 Author Share Posted February 10, 2007 Progress report: Changed the fuel filter and the PCV valve first, but no change in condition. Then changed plugs and wires and problem completely went away. And, after 2 or 3 starts the check engine light went out and has stayed out. Mission accomplished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98obster Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Progress report: Changed the fuel filter and the PCV valve first, but no change in condition. Then changed plugs and wires and problem completely went away. And, after 2 or 3 starts the check engine light went out and has stayed out. Mission accomplished. Has anyone here actually "needed" to replace a newer gen PCV? Filter, wires and plugs sound like excellent preventive and curative maintenance. good to hear that solved the probably sucky idling as well. BTW, I like that when torqued properly, the plugs are pretty much naturally indexed (electrode facing exhaust valves) within a couple degrees :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Has anyone here actually "needed" to replace a newer gen PCV? Filter, wires and plugs sound like excellent preventive and curative maintenance. good to hear that solved the probably sucky idling as well. BTW, I like that when torqued properly, the plugs are pretty much naturally indexed (electrode facing exhaust valves) within a couple degrees :cool: (its called a tuneup) :-p Yes lots of people have changed PCV valves here. Usually its oil consumption as the reason. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98obster Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 (its called a tuneup) :-p Yes lots of people have changed PCV valves here. Usually its oil consumption as the reason. nipper ok. It's probably an "inspect" as far as a tuneup goes. they just aren't replaced that much on "healthy" engines? I guess it's so cheap and easy-why not eh? Inspect every two years or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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