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"Backyard"/substitute tool thread


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Anybody up for a good healthy thread on what to use for certain circumstances/applications when you don't have that Fuji-SOA tool??

 

I just think it'd be a great idea to round up all the makeshift tools people have used to properly remove and/or install parts.

 

Can we gather up some good info and attatch it to the USRM?

 

Thoughts on the idea welcome.

 

Actual tools to fit applications even more welcome.

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my latest was simple, but effective. Getting specialty wheel locks off. (not the kind you can buy a key for at autozone).... Use a malet to pound on an old socket one size smaller than would fit over the lock. use and air wrench to back it off. then to get the socket off in order to use it again, you need to advance the lock onto a spare post. (i just used an old car that will never be road worthy again). you're socket will be toast, sodont use a nice one unless its craftsman. I'm sure i'll think of more, i just happened to use that one yesterday.

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I've got a wood chisel ground to a shallow angle taper for separating bellhousings.Works a charm to get the corroded ones apart without chipping them.

 

I've got some cut-off lengths of aluminum tube that I use as spacers to pull in halfshalfts using the axel nut.

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Well... I don`t know exactly the correct english Translation, but I use a Pair of Large "Non-Ended" Screws (we call `em here "Esparragos" -asparagus-) of 5/8" diameter and around 24" tall, with a nut in each extreme, that holds a 1" X 2" piece of Metal, angled in 90º, to compress (in a Hurry) a suspension Coil Spring.

 

The metod is Simple: first put one of those large Screws in one Side (Left), the other on the oppossed 180º Side (Right), then start turnin` the nut down, around two turns each side at time, and securin` the spring coil with Metallic Wires & Knots...

 

I know it is Rudimentary, and some sort of Risky; but properly Secured it Works Fine, specially in a Hurry at a Junk Yard... or at Home! :Flame:

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To hold the EA82 camshaft sprockets while doing the t-belts I simply drilled and tapped my jack handle for two 1/4-20 bolts. They are spaced to fit into the holes on the sprocket, and stick thru the jack handle far enuff to engage the holes. Works great. Not sure about the 4x4 electrical box cover version of this tool, but I have heard of it.

 

***SEE POST # 30 TOOLS "I" AND "J" *** These are basically what I am talking about.

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my latest was simple, but effective. Getting specialty wheel locks off. (not the kind you can buy a key for at autozone).... Use a malet to pound on an old socket one size smaller than would fit over the lock. use and air wrench to back it off. then to get the socket off in order to use it again, you need to advance the lock onto a spare post. (i just used an old car that will never be road worthy again). you're socket will be toast, sodont use a nice one unless its craftsman. I'm sure i'll think of more, i just happened to use that one yesterday.

 

I've done this before... bought a Craftsman 12-point 15/16 socket and pound it over the locking nut... then put the socket on a vise and pound the socket back out... works like a charm... and if you break the socket Sears will replace it free... :grin:

 

 

--Spiffy

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I've got a hollow tube with a long bolt ( well more like threaded rod, there's no head on the bolt ) through it and a castle nut either side of the tube ( one end is closed up with a hole for the bolt ). The nut on the inside of the tube is welded to the thread of the bolt.

 

It pulls CVs through the front assemply by threading the welded nut onto it, and then using the nut outside the tube to wind the bolt back.

 

 

I also have a tool for doing up the castle nuts, it's a long piece of hollow square welded to a piece of metal with the appropriate socket cut out of it.

 

It's long enought that almost no effort is needed to crack a castle nut.

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a 1 inch socket fits perfectly over the oil pump rotor so that you can hold it steady while breaking the 12mm nut on the oil pump sprocket, to replace the oil pump seal.

 

a right angle screw driver, sears craftsman set, the smaller of the two piece set, works perfect for holding an XT6 drivers side timing belt tensioner. it has a screw that releases tension and must be held while installing the t-belt. i wind it up off the car, install it while holding the screwdriver still in place, then install it with the bolts hand tight and the screw driver holds tight against the engine due to the pressure of the spring loaded tensioner/screw. install belt, remove screwdriver and bam, snaps into place perfectly. i have pictures at xt6.net.

 

very large sockets work well for driving in EA82 or ER27 crank seals.

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I got this from Hondasucks but I have also made my own. I have a cam sprocket from an EA82 with two bolts welded through two opposite holes. On the backside, I have a larger, Harbor Freight socket (7/8" IIRC) welded onto the center of it and then I can put a breakerbar in it and use it to tension timing belts.

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the spark plug tool that comes in the factor XT6 bag of worthless tools will remove the PCV valve.

 

the metal hexagonal bolt that holds part of the a/c bracket on an XT6 will, when turned backwards so to speak, remove the engine access plugs for pulling the wrist pins.

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the spark plug tool that comes in the factor XT6 bag of worthless tools will remove the PCV valve.

 

the metal hexagonal bolt that holds part of the a/c bracket on an XT6 will, when turned backwards so to speak, remove the engine access plugs for pulling the wrist pins.

 

funny, I remember both the spark plug tool you mention, AND the two-ended screwdriver from my dad's XT6 staying around alot longer than the car... They got used, too. I actually try to keep my eyes peeled for a soob screwdriver whenever I am in the JY. I question the "worthlessness" of said bag O tools.. :-p

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Um I use a length of an old dodge ripped pully belt as a tool to remove oil filters.

 

on my saab(I know not subaru related) I ground a cheap(free) 10 mm to a taper to unbolt the shifter once(10 mm bolt in a tapered hole.hole is tapered just enough to where a sockect can grab maybe .5mm of the bolt.so in come tapered socket....

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the spark plug tool that comes in the factor XT6 bag of worthless tools will remove the PCV valve.

 

the metal hexagonal bolt that holds part of the a/c bracket on an XT6 will, when turned backwards so to speak, remove the engine access plugs for pulling the wrist pins.

 

I've sooo done this one works like a charm..

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oookee dokeee coming along.Some good.:)

Nobody mentioned asprin or stronger medication yet.So that must mean your tools are actually working.;)

 

Thanks and keep them coming.Has to be at least a few folks that will read this and smile on Sunday instead of bumming a ride on Monday.

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don't forget to keep zip ties, cheap mini-tape measure, ziploc bags, red cargo flag, and extras like roll pins, axle nut/washers, electrical tape, and maybe a set of lugnuts on ya!

If you want to pack duct tape but don't want the space taken up, grab a clean bolt or something long enough and wind several feet around it.

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I have a wedge of 1/4" plate steel 3" long, tapers 1/2" to nothing (to the point) that I use to remove the hub knuckle assembly from the strut. Works awesome and very quick.( Sometimes it might slip out of the groove:dead: ) I also have a bolt and nut, combined with an offset double end box wrench that I use to torque those two pesky hard to reach head bolts on EA81. I attach the torque wrench at a 90 degree angle for accurate torquing. Found that trick in another thread here somewhere.

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