Why isn't my car starting in the mornings?

[ahreno]

I have a 2000 outback and am having problems with it starting the first time each day.

 

I turn the key and nothing happens. Pretty much identical to not having the clutch all the way down however, i'm absolutley positive it is. Sometimes it will start on the second or third try, sometimes it takes a couple minutes of trying... Then it starts right up... not like the battery is dead or anything. It doesn't make any weird sounds when it's not starting either (no clicks or anything).

 

After it starts the first time in the morning, it works fine the rest of the day (maybe once or twice have i had to try twice in the afternoon).

 

I pretty much have no idea what to do. I can't even take it to a shop as the problem only exists first thing in the AM and sometimes not at all. Anyone have any ideas?

[nipper]

This is a manual. Can be a bad clutch switch, bad neutral saftey switch, or bad starter solenoid contacts, or dirty battery cables.

Try cleaning the cables first (how old is the battery).

I dont recall if the manual has a NSS or not. If you park the car in gear, try one night leaving it in neutral and see if it starts.

 

nipper

[LosDiosDeVerde86]

This is a manual. Can be a bad clutch switch, bad neutral saftey switch, or bad starter solenoid contacts, or dirty battery cables.

Try cleaning the cables first (how old is the battery).

I dont recall if the manual has a NSS or not. If you park the car in gear, try one night leaving it in neutral and see if it starts.

 

nipper

 

hey nips...how about it's a my2000. if it's still on the original battery, it's not going to be able to handle the cold as well as a fresh one. I'd say if the battery hasn't been replaced, do that first. it's one of the cheapest things you can do to prevent a cold no-start.

[nipper]

hey nips...how about it's a my2000. if it's still on the original battery, it's not going to be able to handle the cold as well as a fresh one. I'd say if the battery hasn't been replaced, do that first. it's one of the cheapest things you can do to prevent a cold no-start.

 

Thats what i was wondering, he should get it load tested for free at a parts store.

 

Cleaning battery cables are even cheaper to start with

 

nipper

[ahreno]

Thanks for the great advice. The battery terminals are clean... As far as when the battery was last replaced, I don't know... it hasn't been since i've owned it (1.4 years). I'll get it tested and then start worrying about the other suggestions. I leave it in neutral overnight everynight (just with parking brake on).

[nipper]

Well the battery is about due to be replaced. They usually had 60 month batteries. Get it tested and if it is all ok when can start discussing starter solenoid or clutch switch.

 

nipper

[porcupine73]

I'm guessing you mean no crank at all at first? Or do you mean it cranks but doesn't start?

[kimokalihi]

Getting the same problem. When I leave for work at night I'll get into the car and turn the key and nothing happens. I was assuming it had something to do with the starter. It takes a minute or two of clicking the key to get it to finally turn over.

 

Can I just grab a starter from the junkyard? Is that a good idea? It just started doing that in the last month and has only done it maybe 2 or 3 times. But when I am on my way to work, I don't want that to be happening lol.

 

My car is a 90 Legacy L Wagon 4EAT AWD.

[nipper]

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70832&highlight=starter+contacts

 

This was covered recently.

 

nipper

[porcupine73]

If no crank as nipper said could be starter contact set.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/StarterServiceWin03.pdf

[Skip]

Sorry being the broke guy in the club house,

I don't buy into throwing parts at a fix (bat, cables, starter contacts ect.).

I do know how to throw words around though.

 

I need some

concrete evidence.

 

First thing I would do is connect a test light to the

small wire connected to the back of the starter.

 

Better than a test light would be a working car horn.

(draws more current, like the starter solenoid would, can be

picked up at Wally World for about 5 or 6 George Washington's.)

 

This small wire (has a spade connector on it), is what

controls the starter solenoid when the key is in the "start" position .

 

 

Do this at night and test it in the morning.

 

If the horn blows loud and clear - the starter and/or it's starter solenoid contacts are no doubt to blame.

 

If the sound is weak, then battery, cables connector to battery, cable to connector

(lots of people forget this junction and just clean the connector to battery).

One of these is

no doubt at fault.

 

If this is the case - reconnect the starter solenoid wire.

Hold the key in the start position for 15 seconds, get out and feel all junctions

- the warm one is the bad one.

Resistance makes heat and there should be minimal resistance this minimal heat.

 

If the horn makes no noise - then we start talking clutch switch (easily by passed with a paper clip),

ignition switch ect.)

 

Please, I am not poo poo'in the sage advise you have already received, as one of the fixes could be the fix.

(or the small wire talked about could just have a bad connection? = free fix)

 

But a little detective work sometimes pays dividends.

 

Then look behind the raditor core support in front of the battery.

There are horn wires and a mount from the factory

(guess some places get twin horns?)

- mount the new horn you bought there and go "toot toot".

 

Sure hope this helps.

 

 

As a side note to this diatribe, my 94 Leg wagon does a simaliar thing

- I have to hold the ignition switch in the start position for sometimes as long as 5 seconds before it begins to crank.

No noise, no nuttin' for 5 second then -er -er -er -- VRoom.

Been doin this for a year.

[Mikevan10]

Skip,

 

You said, "As a side note to this diatribe, my 94 Leg wagon does a similar thing

- I have to hold the ignition switch in the start position for sometimes as long as 5 seconds before it begins to crank.

No noise, no nuttin' for 5 second then -er -er -er -- VRoom.

Been doin this for a year."

 

Obviously you are handy with diagnosis, maintenance and reapair of these things. So I am curious.... Why don't you figure out what's wrong and fix it?

 

Not trying to be a wise acre. Just naturally nosey.

 

Mike V.

[Skip]

Hi Mike,

Snow worries, mate.

 

How do you spell

L-A-Z-Y

 

It always starts and it seems like there are other

projects on my plate I'd rather fool with.

 

I do carry "RemStar" in the glove box for Justin.

 

"RemStar" you say??

For Justin you ask?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, Just in case it doesn't start

[Gloyale]

I've sen more than one subaru have poor contacts at the actual ignition switch. Try jumping power straight to the solenoid spade connector with the key in the "on" position/eng not running. If it will not start from the key but will with a straight jump it is a good sign the switch is not making good enough contact I've owned 7 subies and 3 of them needed a push button starter switch wired up.

 

I run a fused(important) wire from the big positive connector on the starter where the batt. cable goes for a 12v supply. run that wire through firewall to a push button switch, and back to the solenoid connector. Put a piggy back spade on the wire and you can hook the original solenoid wire back up. That way you can still "try" to start it with the key like normal. If it doesn't work, leave the key in the on position and then hit the button.

 

Note: If putting power to the solenoid with key "on" does not turn starter and start car, this is not the fix. In that case the previous advice in this still applies