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EA81 Rebuild - head studs?


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I am wondering what most people do with the EA81 head studs when cleaning the block surfaces? Leave them in? Or take them out? And what is the best way to get them out? I am assuming they are in aluminum threads, which makes me nervous because I don't want to strip them out.

 

I have already shot them with penatrating oil, and tried a double-nut set-up to get one out. Of course, it didn't move.

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Mine came out fine with a standard stud wrench...... that was on an engine which had done around 200,000km.

 

If you plan on getting the surface machined (a good idea if you don't want to worry about your head gasket), then they will have to come out.

 

If the threads in the head are destroyed you can always helicoil them.

 

If you have them out, make sure you check the FSM for the correct amount to re-insert them.

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I can't say that I've heard of such a tool. Can you show pics or explain?

 

Thanks,

Justin.

 

its not ENTIRELY unlike one of those "gator" sockets that can "grab onto anything" but the insides of the socket itself are TOTALLY different.. the gator thingy has basically what I have always thought of as a bunch of nails, and some of them get pushed up by your broken-headed bolt/etc...

 

The stud extractor has a number of sprung dowel-type things in it. The sstud fits into a hole in the middle of the socket, surrounded by these springs, and when you twist it either direction, all those springs expand slightly, pinching the stud and grabbing it in all its threads..

 

not an AWFUL description, but I wish I could've done better.. try going to sears and asking them about it. it is a tool WELL worth its weight in gold. of course, it still might not help you yank your studs.. :rolleyes:

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22083.JPG

This is the expensive version, it works quite well if you can afford it. I dont have a picture of it, but the one I have cost me $60 and works more like a drill chuck, The best part is that it can be used with an impact gun (not the snapon one) There is also the more common type that uses a 1 larger wheel with teeth on it, (available at any local auto parts store) but I have had bad luck with those.

 

if you dont want to spend a lot of money, a 10-14" pipe wrench will remove the studs. Just remember to de-burr all the teeth marks the wrench is gonna make before you put them back in.

 

-Mike

 

BTW, on a side note, the head bolt/stud size on the EA engines is 11x1.25mm it is IMPOSSIBLE to find anything in this thread, so be carefull. If you need replacement studs, they usually cost about $10 a piece from the dealer, OR ARP actually makes head studs that will fit for about the same price.

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  • 8 years later...

Do Subaru's have head gasket problems because of gasket collapse or head bolt stretch???

 

Has anyone considered ARP part number 151-5405

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-151-5405/

 

I called this morning and gave them the stock dimensions of my old head bolts

10mm dia x 1.25 x 125mm long

40mm threaded on both ends.

 

part number 151-5405 is slightly different because it is threaded 33mm on one end and 25mm on the other.

Over all length is correct.

I'm going to go home tonight and measure how much thread hangs out of the block with the head off.  And head thickness.

It may work to install 33mm on the block side and 25mm on the head side. And extra washer could compensate for not enough threaded length.

 

Thoughts?

Edited by coronan
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My subie dealer said new head studs are no longer available for the ea81

part # 800911120. 

My google searches are coming up short too.

 

Anyone know of some laying around?

 

Helicoil the block for 10 mm or 12mm?

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