daeron Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 Well, last summer, after some thermostat and water pump issues, I started bubbling coolant into my overflow. Eventually I winnowed it down to a likely HG problem, but since I was working nights and all the tools were at my family's communal "shop," I never got around to actually confirming that. About 1 1/2 months ago, it started occasionally doing this put putt kinda thing.. I checked my MAF, cleaned the IAC, the TPS had already been changed.. but the other day when I went to start it it refused to fire, then it got flooded out. At that point I figured, "I've checked the typical FI componentry that would cause this kind of issue, ive got good spark (when the car warms up it runs perfectly OK, outside of a low idle) This has GOT to be my headgasket finally biting me in the arse." Finally got my hands on the compression tester today, and LO!! -----front of car-------- driver 180 155 passenger ----- 185+ 155 --------- Thats right, 25-30 psi difference between driver's side bank, and passenger's side bank. "WOOOHOOOO," I thought, "THE BOTTOM END IS AS TIGHT AS CAN BE!!!" ..and for a little while I thought my missing gas cap had caused the sputter, HAHAHA!!! I know its a percentage differential that matters, but 30/180=1/6= like 17% difference!!! even at 25/180 its still 5/36 or 13.88%.. the rule of thumb IS 10%, right??? I know that it CAN be done in the car with a ratcheting 10 or 12 mm box wrench, which I have access to... Should I bother pulling it? My initial thoughts are no, I know this is a subject of great debate. Please refresh my memory of the pros and cons of each side, thank you. Okay, the plan is fel-pro permatorques from autozone, cheap. Cam case o rings and intake manifold gaskets, dealer, also cheap (!) T belts are 30K old, water pump is about 10-15K. I am on a No-Dough budget right now, so the rear main seal is out.. Other than oil and coolant (thanks prospeeder:cool: ) what else should I get? While I am at it, the nearest dealer said that the cam ase o rings were likely to take longer to get than the intake manifold gasket.. anyone got a pair they could maybe ship me before next wednesdayish?? south lforida, zip code 33413.. obviously, if total cost with shipping would be over fifteen bucks, it could put me out of budget, but I figured I would try. Both the head gasket and the intake manifold should go on dry, correct? there should be supplies of things like RTV up there.. Also, I just changed my oil like, 100 miles ago. If I really feel confident about the cleanliness of doing so, what would you cats say to re using this oil for a little while?? the ten bucks it would cost me to change again might actually put me over budget, so its kinda important.. rest assured that any oil re used WILL be drained and replaced in short order, just not this week SNAGS!! what have people run into, other than sticky/broken head/manifold bolts? that one I am aware of, and shall do everything I can to avoid.. what are the odds we could use some datsun studs, BTW? I might could get some of these in used condition by simply asking my uncle, but something tells me if it were THAT simple, we wouldn't be caught weeping over the like, $700 price tage for a set of ARP studs so often.. eh, THAT was just a thought. Commence!! point out the things I am stupid for having overlooked, tell me what mistakes I am bound to make before I make them, and remind me what else I need to buy!! Thank you, USMB, for your support in this time of low compression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 I never pull them for HG's. It's just way more work than neccesary. The only bolt that's tough is the rear-most drivers side valve cover. But really it's no problem at all with the ratcheting 10mm. Most of the failures I've seen were passenger side HG. And in almost every case the compression tested fine - within 15% anyway, and not enough to cause the engine to run rough. But there was coolant consumption, and when I removed the head you could see where the passage was partially blown. It often causes damage to the sealing surface requireing the head be milled or sanded flat again. Make sure you have RTV for the cam cases, a good 1/2" torque wrench for the head bolts, and a wire wheel to clean them, and the intake bolts. Other than that, you are definately poised to become a lot more familair with the EA engines . Remember to very carefully keep track of the lifter/rocker locations, and to properly tighten each of the 8 came case bolts. I've seen some crazy carnage from having just one of them loose - completely destroyed the block and head. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 So I am looking through the FSM and reading up on the procedure ahead of time, and I am wondering which pages I should print out to have on hand at the shop.. The beginning of the engine chapter, with the tables with all the specs, is a no brainer. Once I get to the procedure breakdowns, how fan should I go before terminating the printout? Should I print out all the info on checking and setting my valves, when I do not plan on needing to get into that? Basically, is it wisest to simply print the entire "Engine" section up to the point where it discusses tearing the shortblock down? Also, will the valves etc need to be removed if I plan on taking it to a machinist?? I have a friend who can do it for me for free, but if I have to take a bunch of stuff apart that I wouldn't need to otherwise, I can just check it and "machine" it by hand.. I am basically trying to get an idea how completely I am going to be tearing this thing down. My father actually suggesting simply doing the headgasket on the one side, which I don't think is the best course Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 The partsbin.com claims that this intake gasket and this cam case o-ring are both OEM brands.. anyone care to comment on that? the photos look right... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Definately do both sides at once. With these engines you know the stock gaskets have a limited life span of about 200,000. One will necessarily fail before the other, but they both have about the same overall life. That's like only replaceing the timing belt that broke . You know the other isn't far behind, and you'll save about an hour's worth of time (maybe - intake and exuast are already off), and maybe $20. You don't need to touch the valves when doing the mill work on the gasket surfaces. As for printouts - beyond the torque specs, and sequence I wouldn't really bother. There shouldn't be much you will need - it's just basic mechanical dissasembly. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Yeah - they probably are. But they are just as cheap or less if you get wholesale from the dealer. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 Yeah - they probably are. But they are just as cheap or less if you get wholesale from the dealer. GD No wholesale for me, the dealer around the corner from me wanted over 30 bucks for two of each.. theres another one about twenty miles south that I can get it all for a little less than thepartsbin can, shipped.. but the dealer might take longer to actually GET the parts, and a forty mile round trip is something of a haul through the urban sprawl that southeast florida has become.... I should have my mind made up and course set within a couple hours. While I'm at it, I was thinking of getting some radiator/block flushing solution and running it through before I tear the engine apart.. I think my heater core may be partially clogged, my old radiator was rather foul, and this water thats been in my radiator has just been NASTY.. Any reason NOT to flush the block before I tear it apart?? I also just ran some seafoam through the oil, fuel, AND intake vacuum, so if I do the block flush, I would anticipate tearing apart a spotless motor.. and another thought, what do I do with my AC compressor? I could have my brother evacuate it, and maybe even con him into pulling a vacuum and refilling it afterwards.. or at least helping me with the equipment to rent a pump from autozone and do it myself.. BUT if others before me have just hung the thing up out of the way somewhere, I will likely just do that (easier) I can't wait to actually turn a wrench.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 what do I do with my AC compressor? I could have my brother evacuate it, and maybe even con him into pulling a vacuum and refilling it afterwards.. or at least helping me with the equipment to rent a pump from autozone and do it myself..I can't wait to actually turn a wrench.. take it off the block leave the lines attached and you should have enough room to manover that what we did on my friends ea82t Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 take it off the block leave the lines attached and you should have enough room to manover that what we did on my friends ea82t thanks for letting me know that my standard operating procedure should work for me and here is the link to the FSM pdfs so I can download it later at my parent's place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 :cool: Eheheheheheheh...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nkx Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 i dont know about the intake gasket, but the cam tower rings dont look right. those are supposed to go under the cover under the cam sprockets right? the ones i got at the dealer looked much beefier than those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Um, the intake gaskets and the cam tower O-rings are on order from 1stsubaruparts.com, this was just the headgasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nkx Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 i was referencing this, not the pic of the head gasket. :-\ The partsbin.com claims that this intake gasket and this cam case o-ring are both OEM brands.. anyone care to comment on that? the photos look right... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 20, 2007 Author Share Posted February 20, 2007 i was referencing this, not the pic of the head gasket. :-\ I *KNEW* it had to make more sense than that... my mistake! I wound up ordering through 1stsubaruparts.com anyhow, so its moot. I have had a couple of different threads here, and i must've gotten wires in my head crossed, and forgot I had posted that thanks for the heads up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now