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Mix synthetic ATF with non synthetic..


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I'm going to change the fluid for the tranny, by just draining the pan, and refilling through the marker tube. Now, even though this isn't a full flush, can i still use synthetic ATF?

 

I just want to try synthetic oil, and there are NOO LEAKS at ALL from the tranny, been pressure tested and everything, but what i found out is, lets say if i drive the car from a cold start and accelerate in snow, its totally fwd, u sit there all day spinning wheels. Drive for MORE then 40 mins, and then the AWD works:eek: still a tiny delay, but it kicks in fairly smooth. Sound promising to try just a simple tranny oil change? And the tranny was being run overfilled for about 1,000KM i mean WAY overfilled, but still NO LEAKS, so maybe there is air in the fluid?, i dont know. Thanks!

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You can do that mix but ideally a lot of oil makers like at least 90% fresh fluid in the system. Seriously, the pump and dump method of pulling one of the hoses off the atf cooler works very well and is relatively easy to do. It gets you a goodly amount of fresh fluid with less fluid waste than multiple drain and fills.

 

As far as brands, mobil1 is very nice and is available retail. I'm running amsoil syn atf right now seems really nice too. Haven't tried but have heard good things about redline and schaefferoil. There was this awesome small blender SpecialtyFormulations but they're moving so they're down for at least a couple months.

 

I had a bit of a similar experience to what you're saying in my '00obw. The first winter it just wouldn't put much power to the rears. This winter I was on stop and go sheer ice for about two hours. So with every creep forward I'd hit the throttle a little bit to spin the tires. At first it was just the fronts spinning. Then after about an hour of doing this, the rears started to work a lot better. Now she'll spin the front and rear. I think the clutch packs were glazed and this action combined with fresh good atf cleaned them up.

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just drain and fill 3 times in a row and that should get you to the 90% mark. Just remeber to let the car run a few minutes and go through all the gears inbetween.

 

 

nipper

 

ok, so go to gear 1 wait 10 seconds 2 repeat 3 etc.

 

What if i just tried one oil drain, then did another drain 1 month from now? Is that ok?

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ok, so go to gear 1 wait 10 seconds 2 repeat 3 etc.

 

What if i just tried one oil drain, then did another drain 1 month from now? Is that ok?

 

I have a freind that does 1 tranny fluid change at every synthetic oil change. By the time th car is due for a recomended tranny fluid change, he has flushed all the fluid.

 

Personally i would rather do it all at once.

 

nipper

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I have a freind that does 1 tranny fluid change at every synthetic oil change. By the time th car is due for a recomended tranny fluid change, he has flushed all the fluid.

 

Personally i would rather do it all at once.

 

nipper

 

well i need to stop by a auto place and see how much syth ATF cost, how many quarts do i need? for 1 drain?

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I know it's not the same as the Amsoil stuff, but @ Country Coach, since we used Allison six speed transmissions, we had this stuff called TransSynd synthetic transmission fluid, I don't know if it meets any other fluid's specs (Mercon, Dexron, etc..) but the stuff smelled like strawberries or something like that, didnt' smell like normal tranny fluid.

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I know it's not the same as the Amsoil stuff, but @ Country Coach, since we used Allison six speed transmissions, we had this stuff called TransSynd synthetic transmission fluid, I don't know if it meets any other fluid's specs (Mercon, Dexron, etc..) but the stuff smelled like strawberries or something like that, didnt' smell like normal tranny fluid.

 

i think ill this stuff in that case then :lol: Always wanted stawberrie juice lubing the tranny :)

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You could run the TransSynd in this application. It's a pretty good fluid. Last I knew the only company Allison had licensed to make this fluid was Castrol I think. It has no VII (viscosity index improvers) to shear back, which it shouldn't need anyway if it's synthetic. amsoil makes a transsynd fluid that they kind of reverse engineered.

 

If I were doing the multiple drain and refills, between fills I'd at least get her out on the road up to like 40mph to make sure it goes through 1,2,3,4 and reverse.

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just drain and fill 3 times in a row and that should get you to the 90% mark. Just remeber to let the car run a few minutes and go through all the gears inbetween.

 

 

nipper

 

Not quite - a drain and refill replaces one third of the fluid in the transmission. 3 drain and refills will leave you with about 30% original fluid.

 

The 1st d & r will leave you with 66.6% original fluid. The 2nd d &r replaces one third of that, which leaves 44.4% original. The 3rd leaves 29.6% original fluid.

 

Theoretically, it takes 10 d & r's to get close to a complete flush (1.8% original remaining).

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Not quite - a drain and refill replaces one third of the fluid in the transmission. 3 drain and refills will leave you with about 30% original fluid.

 

The 1st d & r will leave you with 66.6% original fluid. The 2nd d &r replaces one third of that, which leaves 44.4% original. The 3rd leaves 29.6% original fluid.

 

Theoretically, it takes 10 d & r's to get close to a complete flush (1.8% original remaining).

 

OR i could jsut get a tranny flush maybe :confused:

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Not quite - a drain and refill replaces one third of the fluid in the transmission. 3 drain and refills will leave you with about 30% original fluid.

 

The 1st d & r will leave you with 66.6% original fluid. The 2nd d &r replaces one third of that, which leaves 44.4% original. The 3rd leaves 29.6% original fluid.

 

Theoretically, it takes 10 d & r's to get close to a complete flush (1.8% original remaining).

 

you and your magical math..... Witch i tell you he's a witch :)

 

(and actually its not that easy, it involves calculous ... icky)

 

nipper

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OR i could jsut get a tranny flush maybe
You could do that. Just make sure to watch the shop to be certain they actually use the fluid you gave them, unless they have a 'synthetic' option of their own. Many of those shops just have a couple of base fluids and then they use the Lubeguard additives to 'convert' it to the fluid type needed for the application. That's usually more for the Nissan's and stuff (and newer suby's that want that indemnitsu or whatever fluid).

 

Anyway, for the pump and dump, you just need to find the atf cooler hoses going to the radiator. On my '96 they're on the LH (driver's) side of the radiator. On my '00obw it's much easier to get at since it's at the very bottom of the radiator.

 

Just pull off one of those hoses or from some other pipe that hose connects to (hose pliers may be helpful here to rotate the hose to break it loose before pulling), then use some vinyl tube from Home Despot to route both the hose you removed and the barb on the radiator into a bucket or old milk jug. By using two vinyl tubes you don't have to worry about which line is the supply and which is the return.

 

Then after changing the fluid add an extra quart or so and fire 'er up. When about two quarts have pumped out, shut the engine off. Then add another two quarts to the AT. Then fire 'er up again, etc, until good clean fluid is coming out into the jug.

 

One of the secrets to success with this method is keeping good track of how much fluid you got out and how much you put in to keep it in balance.

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I'd never heard of Motomaster but I guess that's Canadian Tire's line of products? If so I'd guess it's just a private label made by one of the big blenders who label wal-mart oil, etc. As long as it is dexron iii it should work Ok I would guess.

 

ya thats our canadian stuff :rolleyes:, meets warrenty specs according to label, so should be alright, but later ill get full mobil1 synth next oil change, just thought id flush out with normal fluid, if it doesn't work this oil change, is it ok to try the transmission fix stuff?

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