[HTi]Johnson Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 1998 Outbck Ltd. Wagon 2.5 DOHC I searched this topic. I found that you need to bleed the air out with the air bleeder, I did that. (Yes, I made the mistake of pulling the rad to do the belts.) I opened the radiator cap and the bleeder, topped it off and started it. Then filled it as needed for about half hour, water started coming out of the air bleeder so I put it back together and test drove, it got really hot, so I went back and bled it again. The car will stay at normal temp while idling but wwhen I drive it, it warms. The fans are connected and working. The only thing that I can think of is: Is there a way to route the timing belt so the water pump isn't included and the car still runs fine? I don't think there is, but I'm lost to what it could be. Thanks, Justin P.S. I took the Radiator out because I had to take the Cam sprockets off, I did the front seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Did you do anything to/with the thermostat? Was the timing belt tensioner in good shape? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Turn your heater on, if it does not get hot then you may still have air in system. I refill mine the way you did but I also have heater on while doing it. 1998 Outbck Ltd. Wagon 2.5 DOHCI searched this topic. I found that you need to bleed the air out with the air bleeder, I did that. (Yes, I made the mistake of pulling the rad to do the belts.) I opened the radiator cap and the bleeder, topped it off and started it. Then filled it as needed for about half hour, water started coming out of the air bleeder so I put it back together and test drove, it got really hot, so I went back and bled it again. The car will stay at normal temp while idling but wwhen I drive it, it warms. The fans are connected and working. The only thing that I can think of is: Is there a way to route the timing belt so the water pump isn't included and the car still runs fine? I don't think there is, but I'm lost to what it could be. Thanks, Justin P.S. I took the Radiator out because I had to take the Cam sprockets off, I did the front seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 Yea, the heater was cold until I got the air out...now it's blowing warm. New OEM T-stat too. The tensioner was fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 I think your problem is still with the radiator or block not being full, I have trouble getting mine full every time I have had the cooling system apart. If that dont work maybe the new t-stat is bad. Yea, the heater was cold until I got the air out...now it's blowing warm. New OEM T-stat too. The tensioner was fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Maybe a dum question but are you sure the new thermostat is in the right direction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 Update: I drove it for bout 3 miles, it held at normal temp. THen when I pulled around in my driveway, it started getting hot. And the heater got cooler...warm, but not as warm during the drive. Must just be more air. As for the thermostat, I put it with the "Bulb" towards the block. Like the one I removed was. Thanks for the help, I'll keep ya updated. Thanks, Justin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 if you need help on filling the cooling system properly, refer to post #24 in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71298&page=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 Hello. I just found out that the driver's side of the radiator is cool while the passenger side is warm. And it will stay moderately cool if I don't "Get on it". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I suspect a good solid air bubble, get it warm enough to open the thermostat and keep bleeding. Squeeze thew hose by the thermostat and see if it bubbles and if it is hot on the other side of stat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Yes you have air in the system. How many miles are on this? There are tricks to filling the cooling system, which ill let the others explain. Did you use an OE thermostat? nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98obster Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I suspect a good solid air bubble, get it warm enough to open the thermostat and keep bleeding. Squeeze thew hose by the thermostat and see if it bubbles and if it is hot on the other side of stat. mmm, sounds like the baby needs a good burping. When I flush and fill, I jack the front end up so the radiator cap is the highest point-otherwise the heater core is (or very close) and might trap air that could migrate around the system. .02 this topic was even on Car Talk today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 I tried bleeding the system about 7 times. Even raised the front end and all. Here's what's going on: It will idle at normal temp. Then I drive it and it stays normal, then, about 3 or 4 miles, it starts to climb, kinda fast, then I coast, it'll drop a little. Then it goes to like 7/8 then down and kinda settles at 3/4, then goes back up...the thermostat is a 170 degree one. Could the timing be off? I rotate the engine and all the marks on the pulleys line up, perfect, but the belt marks are one tooth off to the left. But everytime I rotate it, the marks line up, the single marks are up, double marks line up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 How many miles on the car? nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 150k!:-\ If you're thinking maybe the water pump, I was thinking that. But why would it happen to fail right after a timing belt change. Damn it, I replaced all the seals but skipped the pump because I ...well, I don't know why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 OK. I just realized you asked if I was using an OEM, as in Subaru. No. I was stupid and when to the parts store and they gave me a brand called OEM. Literally GAVE me it, the guy got too frustrated with the scanner because it wasn't scanning the barcode. I should have known better . I made it into the dealer and got a real OEM thermostat, it's cured. Question: Do you think the first Subaru stat failed after I drained the coolant? If so, you think it's just a coincidence? So yeah, Subaru T-Stats a must. Thanks everyone for your brain power. Here's a for you all. -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I doubt it, you probably had a bubble. If you still have the stat just put it in a pan of water on the stove. If it fails to open at the temperature marked on it, it's defective. The Subaru stats I have seen have a small hole that allows air to escape as a lot of newer cars require. My BMW does too. Getting the water to circulate above the flat engine and get all that air out is tough sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 I highly doubt I had a bubble since I spent hours trying to bleed it out. I did it the same way this time as the last. I put the car on ramps so I could have the radiator the highest point. Then, I Took the upper hose off and filled it with water until it would flow out...then waited for it to settle. Once it wouldn't go down, I filled the radiator with coolant until it came out of the upper radiator port then I put the hose on and filled it until coolant came out of the air bleeder hole. P.S. The crappy stat I threw in had a air bleeder hole. Then, I filled the overflow. Thanks for the tip on removing the hose and filling it. That saved a lot of time. Justin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Johnson']150k!:-\ If you're thinking maybe the water pump' date=' I was thinking that. But why would it happen to fail right after a timing belt change. Damn it, I replaced all the seals but skipped the pump because I ...well, I don't know why.[/quote'] This will come back to haunt you if its the original waterpump. They rarely last to the 200K mark (on any car). nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Did you have the engine running while you bled it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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