Major Lazy Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Greetings all, I have searched the MB and cant seem to find the answer to this question, so if someone knows its already here pls let me know. I have a 1982 hatch 4wd that seems to need a front wheel bearing. I figured this out because it makes a horrible racket turning left and when i jacked the car up the right front wheel has a lot of play in it (about 1/4 inch at the tire). The car has been doing this for some time, about 400-500 miles (yes i am lazy). I have to assume if the wheel bearing was any good its shot now. My manuals basically say...dont do this have the shop do it. Money is of course an issue so I would like to do this myself even if I have to spend the same amount on tools because then I will have them forever. so, can anyone help with instructions on how to do this? It cant be THAT hard.... I hope. Thanks, Major Lazy AKA Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverhelme Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Yes it can be done at home. If you want to buy tools the only major thing you need is a small hydraulic press from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool ( around$75-$110 ) and the blocks that hold you knuckle. I know some people have driven them out with a large hammer and drift with varying sucsess but as a mechanic it is not something I would try except as a roadside repair. Be sure and rmember that the bearings come out the side that they are on and do not forget to put the spacer back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Dain Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Wheel bearings are cake...sort of. Anyway, check your tie rod for play, usually looseness in the steering-rack contributes to the play in the tire, and wearing out the wheelbearings. Also, What kind of noise is this racket? A wheel bearing will make a grinding kind of noise, or metal rubbing on metal. If it is a ratcheting, or clicking noise when making turns, that would be a bad CV joint (or axle) which is much more simple to change out. Visually inspect the axle boots for tears, and check for grease inside the boot. If you have a bunch of grease flung everywhere in the area of a boot, chances are there is a tear, and axle is shot. Unless, you catch it soon after the tear, you can replace just the boot before dirt works its way into the CV joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Unlikely that front wheel bearings would have that much slop and *only* make noise in a turn. It's probably a loose axle nut or worn splines on the hub/axle. Could mean it just needs tightening, or it could mean you have to replace the hub, axle, nut and washer. Depending on the damage to the respective parts. Inspect carefully before determining it's the bearings. They do not usually fail in such a way that they cause play. Generally they make an ungodly noise but still have very little play in the bearings. This is because there are two ball bearings (not tapered roller bearings like most applications), and they are entirely seperate entities. They can be replaced fairly easily, although being this will be your first time I sugest removing the hub from the car. It's easier on the bench than it is on the car. Pack the bearings and then freeze them overnight. This will shrink the bearing and make it easier to install. Drift the old bearings out with a brass punch, and then drift the new one's in. You can also grind down the old bearing shell, and then weld a handle to it and use it as a drift. I've replaced quite a few of these and I've never used any kind of press. And now I don't even remove the knuckle. I can do them on the car in about 2 hours. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Lazy Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 The car did make noise while going in a strait line...intermittently. The noise was like metal on metal grinding. There was so much play that the brake shield (if thats what you call it) was sometimes grinding on the rotor. The guy I bought the car from said the recently installed a half shaft and the boot looks good. Sooooo... I just went out and tightened up the castle nut after pulling the rotor off. The splines on both the shaft and the rotor looked great. Now it doesn't make any noise!! you guys rock. Do you think I did any permanent damage? The steering bar thingy (technical term, i looked it up) looked tight btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 If the splines all look ok, then probably not too much damage. You should definately consider replacing cone washer though. If the washer is worn even slightly it will continue to wear and work loose on you every few hundred miles. Generally I try to replace the hub, washer and nut all at once, and sometimes the axle too if the splines look toasted. If the interface of the washer, and the hub aren't perfect it will work loose again - gauranteed. And eventually you WILL have to replace the axle and hub if it keeps doing this. Proper torque is 150 ft/lbs *at least* - I generally take it to 200 or more. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazmataz Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Propoer torque for wheel bearings on 4 wheel drive models 80-93 loyales (legacy or above models) is 145-148 ft-lbs. front and rear. using a press for wheel bearing is way overkill for these models especially at 75-110 bucks for a press, plus you can't use a press if you was doing rear bearings. if it was a legacy or newer model where the hub presses on the bearing then yes especially if its seized on the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 To be true to your name, wouldn't you want to just take the knuckles in to Napa or wherever and have them done? They can ussually reinstall your axle in the knuckle. Pulling that axle through new bearings is a *************** without some kind of rig for doin it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazmataz Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 well thats up to you. i've never needed anything special to pull the axle back through the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemaker13 Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 well thats up to you. i've never needed anything special to pull the axle back through the bearings. Weird... When I did my half shafts, they slid right out- no effort at all. When I put them back in, the china axle slid in just the same but the reman had to be pulled thru (I know, they only had one of each???). Whats the deal with some axles being more press fit than others? :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesley willis Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 i had the same problem with my bearings. i was turning left and i felt a clunk and then heard metal on metal from my right front. i could barely go in a straight line, the front tire was wobbling back and forth and jerking the steering wheel around. i thought it was the axle at first since the outer boot on that side was ripped completely off from the band that holds it to the stub. replaced the axle and i still had the same problem if not worse so i bought bearings and seals. couldn't get the old mangled ones out after trying for many hours. it got put back together and driven to the shop. i had to admit defeat on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 i took the old bearing (outer race) and turned it down 10 thousenths or so and used it as a punch, i assume if you didnt have a lathe you could use a piece of sand paper, the next bearing went in perfect, used it several times now. save the outer race, im sure you will have to do it again, and again, if it comes out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 also a plasma cutter works great to score the outer race if it sticks in the carrier, if they fail they usally stick bad, just remember to use the lowest setting, dont burn thru ,just score it, then crack it with a punch, you will need to cut two passes so it will come out... i have used a small die grinder instead of a plasma cutter,with a small abrasive wheel, to score the outer bearing race, dont cut thru it, it will crack just like a glass cutter cuts glass, just use a sharp chizel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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