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Ghetto Rigged Oil Squirters/Jets


Gravityman
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This is what I was thinking. I know that normally oil squirters have a pressure ball inside them but they are prone to falling out or coming loose.

 

I want to drill a .03in diam hole into the main bearing oil journals on the piston side that will constantly spray oil at the back of the pistons. I think the oil pump should be fine and capable of handling the oil "leak". What do you think?

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The EJ22T has piston squirters :burnout:

 

Get the book "maximum boost" by corky bell, that has a rather good chapter on cooling, such as piston squirters and the like.

 

Yep, have it, already did... That is what sparked the interest. Max boost suggests to start with a .03in diam size hole for the jet.

 

I am building a twin turbo ER27, the engine is going through a full rebuild/makeover. The oil jets are to cool the back of the piston from the added heat of the boost. This increases the life and durability of the piston. This also removes heat from the piston which normaly would cause predetenation.

 

This is kind of what I was thinking of. (The bottom is actually the top of the block. So it will drain down the back of the piston.)

piston_squirter2.jpg

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yes its true that the ej22t has oil squirters but for some reason subaru omitted them from the 22b, the pinnacle of subarus past and present. and those things make some serious power.

 

if youre hell bent on trying this, why not build a test rig that you could pressurize some engine oil both cold and hot at the oil pressures er27's usually run at? it would kinda suck to build that engine and figure out you fubared it by drilling holes in the block. its just really kind of a drastic measure, and whats to say the oil stream will even aim correctly? could open up a whole other can of worms. but if you do it and it works, that will be pretty sweet.

 

another option might be to drill bigger holes and tap them for ej22t oil squirters, which are springloaded to come open at a certain oil pressure that way you dont lose a little oil pressure on startup. it is pretty common for them to be sitting in the pan on ej22t's when they are opened up tho.

 

er27's are closed deck eh, pretty sweet. do they take a good amount of power? better pistons I assume...

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yes its true that the ej22t has oil squirters but for some reason subaru omitted them from the 22b, the pinnacle of subarus past and present. and those things make some serious power.

 

if youre hell bent on trying this, why not build a test rig that you could pressurize some engine oil both cold and hot at the oil pressures er27's usually run at? it would kinda suck to build that engine and figure out you fubared it by drilling holes in the block. its just really kind of a drastic measure, and whats to say the oil stream will even aim correctly? could open up a whole other can of worms. but if you do it and it works, that will be pretty sweet.

 

another option might be to drill bigger holes and tap them for ej22t oil squirters, which are springloaded to come open at a certain oil pressure that way you dont lose a little oil pressure on startup. it is pretty common for them to be sitting in the pan on ej22t's when they are opened up tho.

 

er27's are closed deck eh, pretty sweet. do they take a good amount of power? better pistons I assume...

 

About the ej22t jets, they are extreamly hard to find. Subaru doesnt sell them, you can only get them from a ej22t block, suck, and they are very rare if not impossible to find one with the jets still installed.

 

As far as the power question n/a is about 145hp but we will see what it can make blown!!!

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er27's are closed deck eh, pretty sweet. do they take a good amount of power? better pistons I assume...

My guess is a turbo ER27 would be as reliable as an EA82T. (which isn't saying much...) Worse if you stick if you stick with the 9.5:1 pistons.

 

The ER27 is basically an EA82 with two cylinders added onto it. They make 145HP stock.

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My guess is a turbo ER27 would be as reliable as an EA82T. (which isn't saying much...) Worse if you stick if you stick with the 9.5:1 pistons.

 

The ER27 is basically an EA82 with two cylinders added onto it. They make 145HP stock.

 

Well according to Chilton the er27 has 7.7:1 comp ratio

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Hence the problem with Chiltons, go FSM! BUT it will have 7.7:1 in the ER27.........100_5731.JPG

:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

New Turbo pistons in from Subaru!!! complete with pins and clips!

 

I thought 145hp was a bit much for a low comp, but only reason I have it is because my brother thought it would be a good refference point, and gave it to me for my birthday many years back.

 

Its good for ecu codes,

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I am sorry, dont get me wrong. Chiltons is great for every day maintenance and some major repairs but If you plan on a rebuild or swap the FSM is the only way to go. I have a chiltons, haynes and FSM, I have gone all those roughts but the FSM give so much more depth into the car.

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Dont get me wrong, im not trying to tell you how to build your car, i hate people that do that, but why would your head be the weak link? Are you planning on some high revving? or are you talking about the poor port design on those heads?

And what pressure are you planning to be running?

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Dont get me wrong, im not trying to tell you how to build your car, i hate people that do that, but why would your head be the weak link? Are you planning on some high revving? or are you talking about the poor port design on those heads?

And what pressure are you planning to be running?

 

I am talking about cracking the head between the valves. I know there are quite a few people that have had this problem and adding insult to injury turbocharging wont make the situation any better. This is why I am cryotreating the head and ceramic coating it, it should keep the head cooler and better disipate the heat.

 

I would like to increase the rev limit but I first need to find a set of stiffer valve springs. About the boost I plan to start at about 7psi and go from there, I would like to see about 14psi, shouldnt be a problem with the build i am doing.

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I am talking about cracking the head between the valves. I know there are quite a few people that have had this problem and adding insult to injury turbocharging wont make the situation any better. This is why I am cryotreating the head and ceramic coating it, it should keep the head cooler and better disipate the heat.

 

I would like to increase the rev limit but I first need to find a set of stiffer valve springs. About the boost I plan to start at about 7psi and go from there, I would like to see about 14psi, shouldnt be a problem with the build i am doing.

 

Who are you having do the cryo treating, and how expensive are they?

 

If its somebody local to you I may be bringing some stuff that way later in the spring/ early summer, as my brother lives in Jacksonville nc

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yeah I talked to a guy who works for a cryo treating company about doing cast aluminum and he said the biggest benefit is that it has better resistance to deforming under heat and stress rather than overall strength or say detonation resistance. like for pistons that have been cryod you can run a tighter ring gap and wear stays a lot more even in the bore.

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I am actually sending them off to be cryotreated. I am still looking around for who I want to do it but I think I will be going with a company called 300 below. They actually quoted me $700 to do my entire engine and trans, 2 turbos and my diff. Pretty snazzy! I think that is their military discount.:banana:

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