the sucker king Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 i'm putting a weber on my wagon and need to replace the gaskets on either side of the adapter. the ones i used before were kinda rubbery and pretty stiff. they came for this application and i assume are the thing to use. i have three kinds of gasket material i can cut new ones from, one is rubbery but seems almost like straight up rubber, like a thick piece of innertube. not as stiff as the ones i'm replacing, but just as thick. one seems like a cork and rubber composite, i don't think that is the one to use. the last is sorta paper like, brown in color. seems like it would be good to use, but i worry about it being too thin. the rubbery one seems the most like the ones that i had on before, but i didn't think rubber was what you should use there. any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 The weber conversion manual says to use anaerobic sealant between the surfaces. As for the gasket...the paperish one should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 what exactly is an anaerobic sealant? what i mean is what substances would work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the sucker king Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 actualy i never used anything but the rubbery gasket before and didn't have priblems. i did use a little hi temp silicone on the bottom for the water preheat issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 coat the paper material gasket with some fuel-safe sealant before you put it on, and let that dry overminght before installation. Anaerobic sealant is like RTV type stuff that cures without oxygen.. I am not entirely clear on whether it simply requires no oxygen to cure, or if it requires an ABSENCE of oxygen to cure... but the parts store guys can enlighten you on this, if no other board members do... BTW, your avatar is one of the coolest graphics I have ever seen on the internet, bar none. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 If you use some JB weld and a bit of window screen to bock off the base heating coolant passage, you can just use regular paper gasket material without any sealant. The base heater passage really doesn't do anything anyway as the base of the carb is insulated from it by the adaptor and it's gaskets. Once you remove the possibility of a coolant leak, there's no need for any sealant. Makes removing the gaskets later easy, and they are generally re-usable. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 I used part of a beer box to make one a few years ago. Never gave me any headaches. I also used some sealant for 2 stroke dirt bikes that is petroleum proof and it worked awesome. I still use that sealant to this day actually! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Many a fabricator's first "fabrication" was some sort of gasket or another Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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