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Changed ATF, still no AWD now what?


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Maybe not Ericem, but they admitted to messing it up to begin with. This gives you leverage to FORCE them to fix it right. Like I said, before you mess something else up, give them thier opportunity to do the right thing, because it's the right thing to do.

 

nope, subaru told me. And yes they were tested i believe, i haee something subaru gave me with a list of tests, ill scan it and post it here.

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I think someone needs to verify that the clutch pack was put back toghether properly with the right thickness of end plate.

 

If all that checks out, I think at that point it is your TCU.

 

I resorted to simply installing a switch for the Diff lock, and using it when I need. I am however still getting some power to my rear wheels normally, just not enough or consistent for deep snow. So then I use the switch.

 

Despite the hub-bub about it, I believe it to be a fine Mod. Use it like you would use push button 4WD on an old GL or loyale 3spd. Only in snow, sand, mud, etc...

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I think someone needs to verify that the clutch pack was put back toghether properly with the right thickness of end plate.

 

If all that checks out, I think at that point it is your TCU.

 

I resorted to simply installing a switch for the Diff lock, and using it when I need. I am however still getting some power to my rear wheels normally, just not enough or consistent for deep snow. So then I use the switch.

 

Despite the hub-bub about it, I believe it to be a fine Mod. Use it like you would use push button 4WD on an old GL or loyale 3spd. Only in snow, sand, mud, etc...

 

lol, i need my AWD to be auto, because on asphalt i can easily get my front tires spinning with snow tires :)

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lol, i need my AWD to be auto, because on asphalt i can easily get my front tires spinning with snow tires :)
Then take the car and get it fixed properly. Many people have told you in this thread and the billion others you've made about the EXACT SAME THING to take the car back and get the transmission replaced. If the first shop did it wrong, get your money back and take it to the Subaru dealership so they can screw you out of your own money but at least it'll be fixed correctly!

 

This should not be a reoccurring issue. The transmission needs replaced again. It was done wrong the first time. Numerous people have confirmed it and even the screwy shop you took it to said they screwed up!

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i decided not to care. Me and my dad will pull off the rear casing. Anything i need to look at in particular? Doesn't seem hard at all anyway. Then i can go to subaru and they can look at the rear case, and do whatever he said to do, then i come back, and install it and im Good to Go.

 

Or if you think thats a bad idea.

 

Ill go straight to subaru and pay them $100 and they will correctly shim the clutch, and thats it. AND its NOT a tcu issue, and it is 100% confirmed ok.

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Is this the report from the dealer?

 

I think the shim issue is most likely. However, because the AWD will engage by defeating the Solenoid C, and does engage after a few seconds slip, It still seems like your TCU is not detecting slip, or at least not sending the signal to the solenoid.

 

Notice the dealer checked TCU sensor parameters. As in the Sensors are sending correct info to the TCU. But that doesn't mean that the TCU is actually interpreting and responding to those signals correctly, and outputting correctly. Did they actually put a scope on the SOL. C wire and see that that the signal drops off during wheel slip?

 

$100 bucks to check and reshim the transfer clutches sounds like a good start to me. then that will be either fixed, or ruled out as a problem. As long as that is a possibility, it makes any other diagnosis difficult.

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Is this the report from the dealer?

 

I think the shim issue is most likely. However, because the AWD will engage by defeating the Solenoid C, and does engage after a few seconds slip, It still seems like your TCU is not detecting slip, or at least not sending the signal to the solenoid.

 

Notice the dealer checked TCU sensor parameters. As in the Sensors are sending correct info to the TCU. But that doesn't mean that the TCU is actually interpreting and responding to those signals correctly, and outputting correctly. Did they actually put a scope on the SOL. C wire and see that that the signal drops off during wheel slip?

 

$100 bucks to check and reshim the transfer clutches sounds like a good start to me. then that will be either fixed, or ruled out as a problem. As long as that is a possibility, it makes any other diagnosis difficult.

 

should i try reseting my TCU for 48 hrs? According to my dealer a full reset takes 48 hrs.

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You know what, i just figured something out, my speedo bounces between 10km at speeds from 0-70km if it is getting a signal thinking im deaccelerating and accelerating, it might be tricking the TCU, and it doesn't think im taking off, and gets mixed up. Ill test it by unplugging the speedo cable from the back, and see if it works then. That way it will only reliy on the 2 internal speed sensors in the tranmission.

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If you have a cable, one speed sensor is in the spedo head, the other is in the transmission. But yes you are correct. When the TCU looses a speed sensor, it relies on just the one, but you also loose AWD. It does make a good test.

Wrap the cable end in a plastic bag and eal it, you dont want that lube thrown all around the inside of the car, it stains.

 

nipper

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You know what, i just figured something out, my speedo bounces between 10km at speeds from 0-70km if it is getting a signal thinking im deaccelerating and accelerating, it might be tricking the TCU, and it doesn't think im taking off, and gets mixed up. Ill test it by unplugging the speedo cable from the back, and see if it works then. That way it will only reliy on the 2 internal speed sensors in the tranmission.

 

There is only one in the transmission for a 93. And as Nipper said, If one is failed or disconnected you get no AWD. I don't think that test will help. You can test the one coming from back of transmission by testing for AC voltage across the 2 terminal.(there a 3 terminals but one is grounded shield) Hook up some long leads to it, connect it to volmeter inside car and go for a drive. By 6 mph you should have at least 1 ACvolt, and increasing steadily with vehicle speed from there.

 

The sensor inside the dash is a bit harder to get to, but can be tested in a similar manner. If you have a pinout for the wirng there may be a check connector pin that you can test for the pulse. But for it you want to test continuity between the speed pulse wire and ground as you rotate the speedometer cable. It should pulse between 0 and infinite. pull the cable out at the trans end and rotate it by hand. Measuring resistance with the circuit energized(by driving) can give bad readings/damaged ohmeter.

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  • 3 months later...

just checking back. i let subaru change the transmission oil, and they said they fill it exactly to spec. Guess what, AWD WORKS! literally, even when cold. The best part is that I can't even tell. Hopefully this isn't something that will work short term. yay :)

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