mrdeep2001 Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 92 Loyale 5 Spd FWD I've been having problems with my car as it wont stay running, unless I keep the rpms around 3 grand, and even then every little while the rpms will drop to about 1 grand and kick back up to 3. I changed plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, pcv valve, air filter, oil filter, distributor cap and rotor. I am currently testing my maf sensor. Initially, I pulled it out to clean it, didnt look to bad, but i sprayed it with MAF Sensor Cleaner, let dry and reinstalled with no change. Going by my haynes repair manual, it says to do some electrical checks. Voltage from battery is good(car on but not running), signal voltage between 0.1-0.5 volts so that was good too, but sensor ground and body ground has infinite resistance(which would lead me to believe the maf is bad). There was one more check(cant remember what it was right now) that needed to be done with the car running, but I cant keep the car running long enough to start the car and get over to my maf sensor and hook it up to my multimeter. Any suggestions before I go and shell out some cash on another maf? Or anyone nearby philadelphia or cherry hill/mt laurel/mt. holly New Jersey want to swap mafs with me to test if thats the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PonchoCatalina Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 92 Loyale 5 Spd FWD I've been having problems with my car as it wont stay running, unless I keep the rpms around 3 grand, and even then every little while the rpms will drop to about 1 grand and kick back up to 3. I changed plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, pcv valve, air filter, oil filter, distributor cap and rotor. I am currently testing my maf sensor. Initially, I pulled it out to clean it, didnt look to bad, but i sprayed it with MAF Sensor Cleaner, let dry and reinstalled with no change. Going by my haynes repair manual, it says to do some electrical checks. Voltage from battery is good(car on but not running), signal voltage between 0.1-0.5 volts so that was good too, but sensor ground and body ground has infinite resistance(which would lead me to believe the maf is bad). There was one more check(cant remember what it was right now) that needed to be done with the car running, but I cant keep the car running long enough to start the car and get over to my maf sensor and hook it up to my multimeter. Any suggestions before I go and shell out some cash on another maf? Or anyone nearby philadelphia or cherry hill/mt laurel/mt. holly New Jersey want to swap mafs with me to test if thats the problem? Are you getting a check engine light? If so, what's the code? MAF is code 23. If it's not throwing a MAF code I would look for other sources of the problem. My 91 Loyale was giving me a code 23, but my voltage / resistance measurements seemed within spec. I replaced mine with a junkyard MAF and no more error code and no more stalling, so the computer "knew" when the MAF was bad. To get the code, the car didn't need to be running either - just turn the ignition to the "on" position and read the blinking light under the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Your SPFI MAF should only have 3 wires. Red=12v (10v min) White=signal 0.1-0.5v Black= Ground Resistance between Black wire and body= no more than 10 ohms Measure voltage between Black and white wires=0.1-0.5v Blow compresed air through MAF from aircleaner side, voltage should increase You can repeat these tests at the CPU by probing the crresponding red,white, and Black wires at terminals 17, 8, and 9 respectively. They are all three at one end of the 18 pin plug going into the ECU, there are three plugs, the meduim sized of the three. Black and white wires are right next to eachother in the corner, red wire is right below White. hope this is clear enough to understand. Poncho is right however, you should look at the ECU and see if it's giving you a Code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted February 27, 2007 Author Share Posted February 27, 2007 It WAS giving me a code last week. Heres what happened: Thursday:Driving to work, check engine light came on for a few minutes, then went off. Friday: Check engine light came back on and stayed on. I checked the codes as per procedure(ecu blinking light) and I did get the maf code last week. I was reading up on here and someone suggested cleaning it with maf cleaner, so I did. Then I disconnected the battery for awhile to get the check engine light to go off so i could see if it would come up again. As of right now, it hasn't. I just want to make sure its the MAF before I go buy one. And local junkyards dont seem to have any old subarus lyin around... so if any of you guys has an extra maf I could "borrow" and if thats my problem ill pay you for it, if not, ill return it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted February 27, 2007 Author Share Posted February 27, 2007 took her out for a spin today earlier, it would die every time i let it go back to idle(i.e. when coming to stop sign). So angrily i got some lunch and parked the car. about an hour later, I wanted to put more miles on it to try to get a code to come up. Drove for over an hour and no code. Surprisingly, it ran a lot better. It still would stall every once in a while when i let off the gas, but not nearly as much as before. It would go to idle, then rpms would drop a lil, go back to idle, and drop again and die(much more rarely than before). So temporarily i adjusted the throttle cable to make it idle a little higher than normal, about 1000. The rpms still drop occasionally, but not enough to where itll die. On a side note, I fixed my a/c. Turns out one of my fuses, which goes with the a/c compressor was burnt out, so the compressor clutch wouldnt catch. Bored, I was checking my fuses and noticed one was burnt. Looked on the fuse panel and it said Fan. So whatever I replaced it. And voila clutch was catching! Turned a/c on and boy was it cold!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 I don't think the MAF ground is bad, it is the wire that ties to the MAF that is bad. You need to find the break in the wire that should tie to ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted February 27, 2007 Author Share Posted February 27, 2007 p.s. i forgot to tell u i checked resistance btwn maf ground and body ground again, but used a diff body ground(dont think the other one was a good ground) and the resistance was within specs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 After reading your first post again I agree with cougar. check the ground wires that are bolted into the intake. that is where your main ECU ground comes from. You may want to check all grounds to and through the ECU. I'll look up wire colors and pin locations tonight for ya. You could try connecting the ground terminal of MAF straight to body ground. THAT, may throw a code however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 In case you need it..I have an extra maf for your Loyale..I would just have to find it ( I have a good idea where it is though:) )..If it does turn out to be your maf...I would do the ground checks that have been mentioned..can't be too much help to you cause thats one thing my Loyale has been good about...only code I ever got was EGR sylinoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted February 27, 2007 Author Share Posted February 27, 2007 Thx a lot bucky! I wont have time to check it out for a few days, unless I get some time off work, which is not likely But I will definately check the maf for grounding wire issues. I am slowly straying away from wanting to do this to my car (my car) (I just wanted to use the flame smiley) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 CEL Came back on Ive got 4 codes 11-Crank angle sensor/circuit 13-Crank angle sensor/circuit 23-Air Flow meter/circuit 32-Oxygen sensor/circuit I didnt erase old codes stored in memory, I should probably do that. I replaced the Oxygen sensor maybe last november? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 If you can't find the problem with the ground wire going to the MAF you can just make a temporary ground connection on the MAF ground pin to see what happens then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 thats what i was thinking about doing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted March 1, 2007 Author Share Posted March 1, 2007 didnt have time to make another ground for the maf, but on my way home from work, the CEL came on. So i look down and check the code while the CEL is still on and im gettin 32 for Oxygen sensor or circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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