Bucky92 Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 I have no choice but to try and swap out the Master cylinder /brake booster on Bucky..hopefully that will give me enough brakes to get him through for alittle while..till I have the money to fix the wheel bearing and do a rear disk swap. What are my chances of breaking something ..IE bleeder nipples or brake lines....I have no money to play with if there is a crash and burn here...and since I am flying completely solo on this..I have to know what to expect. I have so much money tied into that POS XT6 which is soon to become a yard ornament it left me totally tapped ( too bad there isnt enough stuff off of it to strip to use on Bucky)..Is this going to be plauseable or should I hold off and wait till I can get some funds raised for my stupidity errors? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Replacing the master shouln't be too bad. It's up off the road so there should not be too much corrosion on it. in my experience with many makes of cars, Subarus are some of the best when it comes to brake fittings. They ussually screw apart real easy if there is still a decent shoulder on the nut. The week link is the bleeder screws. They can rust in place. and they snap easy too. Make sure you use a six-point socket 10mm front, 8mm back, over them to do the intial loosening. NOT A WRENCH OR 12 POINT!! Spray them with penetrant at least an hour before workin on em and you should be good. I'm sorry to here you hate your XT6 so much. I wish I could give him a good home. If he is a Conneticut car it may be his time to be parted out and put into something without rust from the west coast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted February 27, 2007 Author Share Posted February 27, 2007 I figured the bleeders will most likely break...15 years old and 202K miles in the North east..if they arent caked with grease they will be rusty.Maybe I should try and find a rear drum hub assembly??? since there is a major problem back there too. fronts have new rotors and pads so that shouldnt be too much an issue.Just worried that when I screw this up I will be without a car period...Oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Use plenty of PB Blaster or similar. You need flare wrenches for the brake lines (these are those funky looking wrench that wrap around the nut), otherwise you risk stripping out the flare nut on the brake line. Spray every nut with PB blaster and let it soak before you loosen it. You should be okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 I've worked on 20 year old subies here in Wisconsin. Our rust is worse than you're rust! maybe... Anyway, with lots of PB, WD, or Liquid Wrench you'll be fine. I'll stress again the 6 point socket to loosen the bleeders. Flare nut wrenches are good, for brake lines but it can be done without them. especially if they are not badly rusted. If you can afford it though I'd get a set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75subie Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 ( too bad there isnt enough stuff off of it to strip to use on Bucky).. that just got me thinking:rolleyes: Bucky would look pretty nifty with an H6 5sp awd and 5 lug conversion with those wheels:burnout: oh, and the xt seats ect ect i guess it would be tough getting to work while its being converted tho lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Many times I have changed a master cylinder without bleeding the brakes. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, but worth a try. Hook up your new master (making sure it is pre-bled) then with the cover off, and someone that will listen to you on the brake pedal, SLOWLY get the brake pedal pushed to the floor, at some point it will open up (about 3/4 down) and allow the air to back bleed through the master (you will see bubbles) have the person on the brake pedal STOP there, until all the air back bleeds (maybe even tapping the master at the same time). Be careful, you usually only get one shot at this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKrazy Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 Too stripped? Too Rusted?....a pair of vice grips might be your best friend..keep that in mind. Have had to use vice grips on brake lines and bleeders many times, sucks to have to do it that way but can save your day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 What about all those car Andrew has to get rid of? He must have something to offer in extras....or Charlie.Andrew was going to send another turbo wagon down to Charlie's.... As far as I'm concerned you are welcome to go over to Charlie's and pick anything you need off the cars I've dumped there.Except my turbo engine,which I might be retrieving soon. The semi-legengary touring wagon is up there with the engine and tranny removed.Should be cake to grap just about anything you need for this project.Brake booster,M/C,lines,fittings,nipples...just wanted to say nipples. Grab yourself some extras all around.Rotors,calipers,whatever it takes.I've taken care of Charlie so there should be no problem at all. It's a haul but it could be your best shot.Saturday looks to be raining.But they've been wrong often lately. If I can get there with you I'll be glad to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 I have a spare MC and Booster..what i could really use is the right rear wheel assembly ( bearing,drum etc..)maybe try and make it out there this weekend and grab an extra pair of calipers and drums...Bucky has all the symptoms of a bad booster and I know for a fact that rear is trashed.I wont know how to act (nor will Buck) with fully operational brakes... I will talk to you late Paul..got a new celly number so if you get a call from an 860 area code its my new number ( the old one is still good too but I never had signal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 OK,but I just remembered that my cars up there were both 4WD,so the rear drums are different.But Charlie has lots of cars there.Andrew's white '82 GLF is supposed to go there soon,maybe that will help. One way or the other we should be able to help you out. If I don't answer the phone just leave a message. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted March 1, 2007 Share Posted March 1, 2007 I often find a propane torch works as a good partner with PB blast/WD etc. when removing stubborn rusted items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted March 1, 2007 Share Posted March 1, 2007 I was just gonna suggest MAPP gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 1, 2007 Share Posted March 1, 2007 I would not use heat on any brake components you are going to reuse. Maybe to remove the old master, but not on the bleeder screws. You could damage rubber seals inside the cylinder/caliper if the heat gets in there. The heat is going to travel alot through the part. Plus you'll boil the brake fluid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted March 1, 2007 Author Share Posted March 1, 2007 I dont know what I am planning to do yet...sending everything to the JY is looking good right now.wish I could afford to just send one ot both to the garage...but at $80 an hour labor ..that just isnt happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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