I'm thinking about replacing the stock carb with a Weber 32/36 DGV but im not sure if it will be a clean swap. Does anyone have other carb reccomendations or know where to find decent deals?

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32_36_DGV_p/22680.005.htm

try to find the carb in the junkyard.

$250.00 doesn't seem too bad to me. j/y's around here strip all engine stuff. been thinking of getting one myseld. hate the craptachi....

There are usually a handful on ebay if you are comfortable shopping there.

I found mine at: http://www.webercarburetors.com/ ... and my White Wagon has a very important improvement in Power and Performance, never felt soo good untill I swaped the Craptachi carb, with the Weber 32/36.

 

Good Luck!

I have a weber carb on my 83 Brat, it was very simple to install, added more power, and looks cleaner.

i'm still a little confused about the different kinds of 32/36 carbs. theres the DVG, DGEV, DGAV, and DFEV. I thought that my '87 GL Wagon 5sp. was a manual choke but I'm not positive.

Big Jim is a good guy to do bussiness with, here is a short thread that should get you looking in his direction.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66061 HTH, Tim

i'm still a little confused about the different kinds of 32/36 carbs. theres the DVG, DGEV, DGAV, and DFEV. I thought that my '87 GL Wagon 5sp. was a manual choke but I'm not positive.

 

Well... as Far as I know, the DVG, DEVG, etc, means which Choke Kind it has; the DGEV is Electric, the DGAV is operated by a bypass of Engine´s Coolant, and... I´m not sure about the Rest, but some are Manually operated too.

While the 32/36 Weber is a Two Stage Carb where the Primary opens first, and when the foot press more the gas, the Secondary opens; the 38/38 DGAS is a Synchronous two Stage Carb, When you press the gas in any position, Both Stages opens at the Same Time.

The 32/36 has more Fuel Eficiency, the 38/38 makes the car feels a Li´l bit more Powerful (Specially at low RPM´s) but becomes a Huge Fuel Swallower...

So, be careful what kind of Weber you Choose...

Good Luck!

what type of fuel econemy will you get with a weber..wouldnt it use more fuel???

if I Press the Gas Pedal too much to the Bottom, or I Run at Very High RPM´s, it will Suck more Fuel, but at Lower RPM´s it makes my Subie even more Economic to Drive than it was stock.

With the Weber it Does Cruise Speed with less Gas.

I'm thinking about replacing the stock carb with a Weber 32/36 DGV but im not sure if it will be a clean swap. Does anyone have other carb reccomendations or know where to find decent deals?

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32_36_DGV_p/22680.005.htm

Consider converting to SPFI Night & day difference compared to carbs!

Details are at this site

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html

great write up. added to faves for possible future use!

Econemy: About 28 MPG average.

 

Pretty simple install. Intermediate mechanical skills required, and sometimes a little mild fabrication for throttle cable linkages, and AC idle-up solenoids if you choose to keep such accesories.

 

There's DGV, and DFV series. The "A" and the "E" mean virtually nothing in real life. All DGV series are stamped DGAV but it means nothing. The A is commonly refered to as an "Aqua" (water) choke, and the E as Electric, but in practice since all carbs are stamped DGAV, there's no correlation between the casting stamp and what is actually found on the carb. You just have to look at it. Many will be electric from the factory, and some will have been coverted to manual. Older versions tend to be water choke. All the choke types are compatible with a Subaru if you hook them up right, but all Subaru's are electric choke equipped from the factory, so that is the option that makes the most sense, and is the easiest to install.

 

The DFV series suffers from the same nomenclature issue, but is a mirror image carb of the DGV. Everything is reversed - linkage, float chamber, etc, etc. It was also licensed by Holley for use in the early Fords - It's the "Holley/Weber 5200". Used on Pinto's, Capri's, Cortina's, and some 4 cylinder mustangs and others.

 

SPFI is the better option all around, but if the carb install could be called an "intermediate" home mechanic job, then the SPFI is definately an "advanced" or "expert" install. It runs the gamut - mechanical mods, high pressure fuel system mods, and lots of electrical work. I wrote the article linked above and I love the SPFI. I won't go back to the Weber - the SPFI is also generally less expensive because the parts are so easily availible at junk yards.

 

GD

Econemy: About 28 MPG average.

 

Pretty simple install. Intermediate mechanical skills required, and sometimes a little mild fabrication for throttle cable linkages, and AC idle-up solenoids if you choose to keep such accesories.

 

.....

 

 

SPFI is the better option all around, but if the carb install could be called an "intermediate" home mechanic job, then the SPFI is definately an "advanced" or "expert" install. It runs the gamut - mechanical mods, high pressure fuel system mods, and lots of electrical work. I wrote the article linked above and I love the SPFI. I won't go back to the Weber - the SPFI is also generally less expensive because the parts are so easily availible at junk yards.

 

GD

 

Far be it from me to contradict GD's assessment of the skill levels involved in the two swaps, BUT I wanted to add that there is something wonderfully simple about these subarus that is INCREDIBLY encouraging to the novice mechanic, and jobs like a transmission change, engine change, or intake change ("change" meaning swap to a different system not installed in your car from the factory as opposed to a straight swap) are ALOT less insurmountable on one of these guys than on say, a ford probe...... or even a honda.

Econemy: About 28 MPG average.

 

Pretty simple install. Intermediate mechanical skills required, and sometimes a little mild fabrication for throttle cable linkages, and AC idle-up solenoids if you choose to keep such accesories.

 

There's DGV, and DFV series. The "A" and the "E" mean virtually nothing in real life. All DGV series are stamped DGAV but it means nothing. The A is commonly refered to as an "Aqua" (water) choke, and the E as Electric, but in practice since all carbs are stamped DGAV, there's no correlation between the casting stamp and what is actually found on the carb. You just have to look at it. Many will be electric from the factory, and some will have been coverted to manual. Older versions tend to be water choke. All the choke types are compatible with a Subaru if you hook them up right, but all Subaru's are electric choke equipped from the factory, so that is the option that makes the most sense, and is the easiest to install.

 

The DFV series suffers from the same nomenclature issue, but is a mirror image carb of the DGV. Everything is reversed - linkage, float chamber, etc, etc. It was also licensed by Holley for use in the early Fords - It's the "Holley/Weber 5200". Used on Pinto's, Capri's, Cortina's, and some 4 cylinder mustangs and others.

 

SPFI is the better option all around, but if the carb install could be called an "intermediate" home mechanic job, then the SPFI is definately an "advanced" or "expert" install. It runs the gamut - mechanical mods, high pressure fuel system mods, and lots of electrical work. I wrote the article linked above and I love the SPFI. I won't go back to the Weber - the SPFI is also generally less expensive because the parts are so easily availible at junk yards.

 

GD

You did a great job on your article! Many thank's