ivantruckman Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 i need to replace the gaskets on the oil pump, are there any old threds on the procedure, i have done cam seals and crank seals before, but never oil pump seals, thanks in advance.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 On a loyale right? What I do it take the radiator out. Take the accessory belt off. Pull the timing belt covers. Set the engine to the middle cam timing mark. Take the pulley off. Take the timing belts off. (mark what way they are on, so you can put them on the same way, so the rotation is the same.) Take the pump off. I use a crescent wrench and put it on the rotor side of the pump (with a cloth around it) and use a 12mm wrench and take the nut off the shaft and then remove the shaft. Then remove the seals. Clean it up, a lot. Put the new seals in (mickey mouse, o-ring, and shaft seal. You can use a little anaerobic sealant to hold the mickey mouse gasket in place.) Then reverse the steps for installation. Hope this helps if at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemaker13 Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 I did it with out removing the radiator. Risk of damage, just be careful. Maybe place a sheet of cardboard in front if your worried. Coolant can be expensive and is dangerous on your shop floor (and floor drains!) Good luck- Its a pretty easy job- Once you're done And yes, there is alot of info in older threads- search up oil pump or pump seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 two tips: use a 1" socket on the oil pump rotor. fits perfect and holds it in place while you remove the 12mm nut off the shaft. when reinstalling, don't try to push the oil pump flush to the engine, then install the bolts. instead, hold the pump a 1/2" from the block, insert the 2 or 3 bolts, then seat the oil pump. otherwise the bolt holes are tricky to line up based on the way the rotor spins in the block housing. i would not use any sealant on the mickey mouse gasket, but that's personal preference i suppose. the Subaru FSM does not say to do that, i never have and have never had any problems so i'll stick the FSM on that one. the FSM does mention using sealant (i prefer the expensive anaerobic but other can be used) to be used on the oil pump housing. at 12 oclock and 6 oclock place a very small dab of sealant outside of the mickey mouse gasket (not on it). you'll notice on the engine block that the two halves of the block come together there, the sealant is intended to fill any gap that could be caused by the mating of the engine halves. be sure you have a small dab of sealant at that juncture. there's little room between the engine and radiator. it can be done without removing it but is easier and less risky to the radiator to remove it on an EA82. might want to make that decision based on how big your hands are. if you've done the cam and crank seals you don't really need much more info. pull the timing belts (which you've already done). follow everything you did to replace the crank seal...then remove 5 10mm bolts holding the pump to the block. it's very easy...just 5 more bolts than you did before and follow the tips above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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