What else to do while changing clutch?

[aaulick]

I just bought a 2001 Outback 2.5 EX with 125K miles and a slipping clutch. So, I'm having the clutch replaced. I know nothing about the service history of the vehicle.

 

Any tips?

 

The clutch doesn't slip unless I really push it hard. If I wait for it to start showing up in normal driving, am I causing other damage?

 

Is the 2001 outback sensitive to different clutch parts, or is any old (quality) clutch kit ok?

 

Is it worth finding a new mechanic who does a lot of subarus over using my old mechanic who seems very trustworthy but is not particularly subaru-knowledgable?

 

What else should I have done at the same time? I've heard about upgrading plastic oil separators to metal, does this apply to the 2001 model year?

 

I don't know if the scheduled maintenance (timing belt, water pump, more?) has been done. Is there a way to tell?

[idosubaru]

a trusting mechanic is your best asset, use him. we can help you with any subaru specific info. on this manual trans i can't imagine him having any issues replacing the clutch. straight forward as far as clutches go.

 

i would replace the rear main seal, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and retaining clips. and of course the timing belt and water pump stuff would all be nice if it's needed and now is a great time for him to do it. if done right, you're good for another 100,000 miles.

 

the oil pan gasket is a real pain to do in the car, requires unbolting engine mounts and actually jacking the engine up, though it doesn't need to come completely out. so if it appears to be leaking at all, do it when he pulls the engine to do the clutch.

[aaulick]

i would replace the rear main seal, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and retaining clips. and of course the timing belt and water pump stuff would all be nice if it's needed and now is a great time for him to do it.

 

<bump>

 

So, what else is there to the "timing belt and water pump stuff" besides the timing belt and the water pump? Is replacing the water pump actually a necessary/useful thing if it's showing no current problems, or is that overkill?

[aaulick]

i would replace the rear main seal, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and retaining clips. and of course the timing belt and water pump stuff would all be nice if it's needed and now is a great time for him to do it.

 

<bump>

 

So, what else is there to the "timing belt and water pump stuff" besides the timing belt and the water pump? Is replacing the water pump actually a necessary/useful thing if it's showing no current problems, or is that overkill?

[cookie]

The timeing belt and water pump should have been replaced circa 100,000 miles. If this was done fine, otherwise it is quite risky.

[ronemus]

I'd recommend a Centerforce DFX clutch - it's a much better street clutch than the OEM part. The pedal is lighter and the engagement range is much wider, so it's much smoother. You can save ~$200 by getting the corresponding Impreza parts (same parts in both boxes, different prices). I found the best price at Summit Racing's site. It's cheaper than buying the Subaru parts even at full price.

 

At that mileage I'd replace the axles (CV joints) and wheel bearings since they're likely to need it within the next 30k anyway. My mechanic didn't charge for changing the axles since the inner ends were dropped for the clutch and the outers for the wheel bearings. If you still have the original struts it would be a good idea to replace them as well; there should also be a discount on the labor since the hub is already being pulled for the bearing replacement. A 4-wheel alignment would be a good idea to make sure everything is tracking properly after being put back together.

 

You're also due for a timing belt and water pump if they haven't been done already, but there's no advantage to doing them at the same time as the clutch.

[cookie]

If you have the engine out to do the clutch it's easier to do the front end work. If funds are a problem I'd leave the axles until some sign of failure. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the only axle problems I've seen pound a long time before they give up. Struts are the same way you can still drive the car with them fairly tacky, but you lose good wheel control over bumps.

The reason you should have the timing belt, tensioners, and water pump in good shape is any one can kill the engine. Unlike the old subies if the water pump or anything else takes out the timing belt the valves hit the pistons.

[aaulick]

The reason you should have the timing belt, tensioners, and water pump in good shape is any one can kill the engine. Unlike the old subies if the water pump or anything else takes out the timing belt the valves hit the pistons.

 

Why on earth did they design the engine with the TIMING belt driving accessories? That just seems bizarre.

[aaulick]

I'd recommend a Centerforce DFX clutch - it's a much better street clutch than the OEM part. The pedal is lighter and the engagement range is much wider, so it's much smoother. You can save ~$200 by getting the corresponding Impreza parts (same parts in both boxes, different prices). I found the best price at Summit Racing's site. It's cheaper than buying the Subaru parts even at full price.

 

Summit Racing wants $599 for a centerforce Dual Friction clutch kit, which is the only one they appear to stock for 2.5l subarus. (link)

 

Meanwhile SubaruParts.com wants $279 for the stock clutch kit. (link, scroll down to "96-06 legacy 2.5l clutch kit")

 

Am I missing something?

[ronemus]

Summit Racing wants $599 for a centerforce Dual Friction clutch kit, which is the only one they appear to stock for 2.5l subarus. (link)

 

Meanwhile SubaruParts.com wants $279 for the stock clutch kit. (link, scroll down to "96-06 legacy 2.5l clutch kit")

 

Am I missing something?

 

The '01 Impreza turbo clutch doesn't show any more, so it must be sold out; I got mine for $400.

[cookie]

On the other hand a stock Subaru clutch might just last the life of the car, I'm not unhappy with the new one I had fitted a few years ago.

I'm afraid we Americans and our need for power has caused the possible timeing belt problems. Subaru drove the accessories off the belt since they designed this upgraded engine. It was fine until the need for more power caused the compression to be raised to interfere with valves and pistons on a broken belt.

At this point it is still fine if the maintence is done and the problem components are replaced on time.

[Gnuman]

Why on earth did they design the engine with the TIMING belt driving accessories? That just seems bizarre.

 

The water pump is not an accessory, any more than the oil pump is. The engine will not last a five miles without either of them. the Power steering is an accessory, as is the A/C. The alternator could also be said to be one. All of these are driven by drive belts off of the crank pulley. The crankshaft powers the oil pump, and the timing belt provides power to the waterpump on the way to the camshafts. As for bizarre, the vast majjority of manufacturers have been doing things this way for over two decades. It makes the engine simpler to maintain, in the long run.