86BRATMAN Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 That poor poor cyl wall. That makes me hurt. Glad you have somebody who knows a thing or two and can fix it:headbang: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
970subaru Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 how good is this ceramic coating against detonation, is it really heavy and what does it cost? that operation on the sleeve sounds very risky has your machinist done this to an er27 before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted March 22, 2007 Author Share Posted March 22, 2007 ceramic coatings are not ment to be very thick to work effectivly. As far as detination goes, this is only one of the means I am using to reduce the chance of predet. I am cryotreating the pistons which significantly increases the pistons chance to survive a predet attack. I am also going to be adding piston oil squirters with will lower the temperature of the piston at a more then normal rate. I have a few other angles to throw at predet but those are topsecret right now! My machinist has not worked on an ER27 before but has been a machinist for over 20 years. With the amount of work and quality he puts out I have no doubt in his abilities. This will be the first attempt by anyone to resleeve an EA or ER block so I am crossing my fingers and praying!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Nice work bro, Im anxious to see this project develop before our eyes. What a treat, MUCHO TECHNILOGICAL.:cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 Nice work bro, Im anxious to see this project develop before our eyes.What a treat, MUCHO TECHNILOGICAL.:cool: Thanks buddy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 cant wait to see how this turns out. looks like it will be fun once its done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nw_david Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 that's goining to be the best brat ever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 I am glad someone else agrees with me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Are you getting the heads cryotreated too? They're the weak link in EA82T setups, and your heads are similar... good luck with this, it sounds amazing. I appreciate the detail work you're putting into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 Are you getting the heads cryotreated too? They're the weak link in EA82T setups, and your heads are similar... good luck with this, it sounds amazing. I appreciate the detail work you're putting into it. Yep I know they are the weak link, and yes they are getting treated along with the pistons, connecting rods and bearings also possibly the valves and springs. Thank you for the props. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joostvdw Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 hey any progress to report? I'm constantly checking for progress, I really want to see (or actually, HEAR!) this happen! great work, keep up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted April 9, 2007 Author Share Posted April 9, 2007 Sorry for the late response. I am waiting for a possible doner block since mine has really bad pitting. The machinist said either way; new block or replace sleeves is fine with him. He had already cleaned and honed the block and then he found the pitting to be bad. He did reassure me that if I did get a new block that he would clean and hone it without charging me double. I may be getting my balanced crank, rods, and pistons back this week. Once the heads are ported and flow tested I can send them off to the Cryo treater. I have been so envolved with tons of other things right now that it is hard to stay on track with one thing. My wife is due with our second child and might be going into labor this week, for sure monday next week(induction). On top of all of this we are getting ready to buy a house. STRESSED OUT!!! I am trying to keep on track lucky for me I have an understanding wife and a 4 year old daughter that already LOVES Subarus. She wants a pink STI rally car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 Well I am back for at least a few months before I get deployed again. I finally got a block... I pulled the one out of my running XT6 . The cool thing is I found out it has a bunch of things that are fairly new that I was going to have to buy which will save me about $400-$500. The block is in perfect condition and the machinist said that he should have everything done around the 15th of July (no hurry). So the project is back rolling! He is going to balance the entire rotating assy, cut the o-ring slots in the block, deck it, flow my heads and cut and tap holes into the oil mains for piston oil jets. When I get it all back I will be sending the conrods, pistons bearings and ported heads off to get cryotreated and then have the heads ceramic coated. Yea I am crazy! Me pulling the running ER27 in my new garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 your a mad man!!! keep it up man, i cant wait to see the end results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi subbie Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Nice! I am interested to see how those cryo treated heads hold up compared to regular ones. Where are you getting the ceramic coated stuff done at? Swain tech? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Good to see you back in action on this thing... It looks like we use the same engine hoist, lol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted June 29, 2007 Author Share Posted June 29, 2007 Nice! I am interested to see how those cryo treated heads hold up compared to regular ones. Where are you getting the ceramic coated stuff done at? Swain tech? My machinest has a company locally that ceramic coats. I am getting my cryotreating done at 300below. They have been doing it for a while and seem to have it down. I would imagine that a cryotreated and ceramic coated head should be extreamly durable. I think all I have to worry about is cracking between the valves, Knock on wood! I was going to buy the hoist from SAMS club but when I got there the last one was being loaded away as I watched. I think this all might be overkill, you will probably agree. I want to build a SOHC motor that has the potential to run 300+ all day long on the street and track and be as durable as built STI motor. All the crap that I am doing is something that would be done to a 800HP drag car but I dont want to rebuild the motor and have to inspect the internals on a monthly basis. I would love to see another 100,000 miles on this engine with nothing more then an oil and coolant change with a few spark plugs. I want a car that is light weight, can handle extreamly well with good power numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 two words..... (and I know they are GODAWFUL EXPENSIVE...but...) Head Studs???? AT LEAST buy new head bolts? other than that, harbor freight is good for cheap engine hoists, probably cheaper shipped than sams club is even... worth buying, for the amateur who hoists an engine every X years, as opposed to someone who hoists X engines per year... Thanks for the shots of the heads on the ER27.. somehow the head job i did on my car earlier this year, and the fact that my dad just decided to buy a new engine for his XT6 when it blew 15 years ago, had not added up to the fact that I rebuilt the engine that my dad refused to even touch (plus two cylinders).. UNTIL I saw your cylinder heads and realized, hey, thats right.... they are just like mine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted June 30, 2007 Author Share Posted June 30, 2007 two words..... (and I know they are GODAWFUL EXPENSIVE...but...) Head Studs???? AT LEAST buy new head bolts? other than that, harbor freight is good for cheap engine hoists, probably cheaper shipped than sams club is even... worth buying, for the amateur who hoists an engine every X years, as opposed to someone who hoists X engines per year... Thanks for the shots of the heads on the ER27.. somehow the head job i did on my car earlier this year, and the fact that my dad just decided to buy a new engine for his XT6 when it blew 15 years ago, had not added up to the fact that I rebuilt the engine that my dad refused to even touch (plus two cylinders).. UNTIL I saw your cylinder heads and realized, hey, thats right.... they are just like mine! I have been contenplating buying new head studs. The only way that i can do this affordably is to increase the blocks threaded diameter and find a set that will fit my engine. I know that ARP makes the shorter studs for about 8$ a pop with the washer and nut. Custom studs I think ran about $600 for the entire long set, way to expensive even for all that I am doing. I talked to some experts and read in a few books that if a head has 5 bolts per cyliner or more then it is not completly out of the question to run bolts instead of studs. The ER27 does have 5 per cylinder. Now that I think about it, what I might do is go to the junkyard and pull a few cylinder head bolts(1 or 2) from cars that I know have aftermarket studs and find something that will fit my head or something slightly longer. The search is on!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 M11x1.00 is a hard size to find. I think fitting with M12x1.00 studs would be easier and more available, but let us know. Glad you're still around and working on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted July 1, 2007 Author Share Posted July 1, 2007 M11x1.00 is a hard size to find. I think fitting with M12x1.00 studs would be easier and more available, but let us know. Glad you're still around and working on this. ME TOO! I will see what my machinest says about this. The main thing about increasing the bolt diam. is to make sure that you can drill all of the old threads out and tap into a smooth hole. Hopefully this wont be a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joostvdw Posted July 1, 2007 Share Posted July 1, 2007 ME TOO! I will see what my machinest says about this. The main thing about increasing the bolt diam. is to make sure that you can drill all of the old threads out and tap into a smooth hole. Hopefully this wont be a big deal. you don't have to drill out all of the old thread, as long as your new studs have the same thread as your old ones have, just make sure that it is 100% centered, but I guess since you're having a machinist do the work, that won't be a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 you don't have to drill out all of the old thread, as long as your new studs have the same thread as your old ones have, just make sure that it is 100% centered, but I guess since you're having a machinist do the work, that won't be a problem The difficulty lies in this fact.... M11x1.00 is a hard size to find. I think fitting with M12x1.00 studs would be easier and more available, but let us know. Glad you're still around and working on this. Perhaps you, as a european, might be in a better place to find another vehicle that uses m11 studs?? Otherwise, I would likely just decide to drill out the original threads to go for less expensive M12 studs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joostvdw Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 I would guess I have a better chance at finding proper sized studs BUT, there is one slight (major) problem we don't even have 1/10 of the carshop you guys have, things like a mufflershop, import car parts, al those things, don't excist here, there are a couple of generic car parts stores, where you can buy the muffler for your 1995 VW golf, but that's it so sure, those studs excist, but there no chance in hell that I would actually find them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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