The Hyperbolic ER27 Twin Turbo Build

[WJM]

15psi is not alot.

[Myxalplyx]

15psi is not alot.

 

With 15psi, I say he will make between 200-250hp. Depends on his compression. Good luck with the project. Looks nice! I agree, 15psi is not alot. Just need to keep it cool and give it fuel.

[archemitis]

you might find out that your brat will only have two headlights by the time you get the motor in there.

 

the heads are a weak link, but so are the timing belts. when you start turning fast rpms, and pushing alot of boost, dont the belts become a big weak link too?

[Gravityman]

you might find out that your brat will only have two headlights by the time you get the motor in there.

 

the heads are a weak link, but so are the timing belts. when you start turning fast rpms, and pushing alot of boost, dont the belts become a big weak link too?

 

I am getting the heads and exhaust ceramic coated and cryo treated. The intake and exhaust are getting ported and polished. If it is the head gasket you are worried about I have a one off copper head gasket fully rubber coated to prevent leaks. To complement the copper head gaskets I have also O-ringed the block. The new pistons have been ceramic coated and moly coated with a oil jet added to spray and cool the piston.

 

As far as the timing belt goes... we will see. I am replacing the belts with new ones as well as the pulleys and tensioners. The only way I could see the belts become a weak link is at really high RPM's. The amount of power the motor turns wont affect the belts unless it jerks the hell out of them. If I run that engine up to 9000 revs then I would be worried. Also, If the belts do spin off there should be plenty of clearance between the piston and valves to prevent contact. Rotating parts should only be affected by speed of rpms not power provided to them.

 

The headlights... I dont know, we will see. I am planing to rework the entire body and the front clip most likely will be in the plan also.

 

As far as how much boost I am going to be running, I want to run the engine in first before giving it too much boost. I plan on about 5-7psi for the breakin period as long as it gives me enough power to get around. On a twin turbo I think it will be enough, 2 turbo's = High CFM's at nominal psi.

[archemitis]

yeah, theres a bit of metal you have to remove to make room for just the timing belt covers.

sounds like loads of fun, just having the NA er27 in my hatch was great!

[Gravityman]

yeah, theres a bit of metal you have to remove to make room for just the timing belt covers.

sounds like loads of fun, just having the NA er27 in my hatch was great!

 

Thats cool I plan on reinforcing parts of the engine bay anyway. I know it will be a tight fit. +2 intercoolers

[SubaruJawn]

i'm thinking the engine will blow up into pieces at 2,000 RPM.

and that at warming up lol

 

i dont know what coating the engine will do.

[Gravityman]

i'm thinking the engine will blow up into pieces at 2,000 RPM.

and that at warming up lol

 

i dont know what coating the engine will do.

 

Wow thats pretty jacked up. I am sure it will at least last 5 mins and rev to at least 3000 revs. Be positive.

 

What are you talking about coating the engine?

[SubaruJawn]

Dude

i was joking. i'm sure it can handle 1 turbo but 2 ? i think thats pushing it.

 

 

the coating engine thing didnt you gonna spray it or something?

[Gravityman]

Dude

i was joking. i'm sure it can handle 1 turbo but 2 ? i think thats pushing it.

 

 

the coating engine thing didnt you gonna spray it or something?

 

2 turbo are in the realm of the unknown for the ER27. If it can be done I want to do it. 2 turbos will feed the same amount of pressure but faster and at a higher cfm. I am building it the best I can to be able to handle the power. All I can say is "WE WILL SEE".

 

As for the coatings I have coated the pistons with ceramic and moly. The heads will be getting the same ceramic coating. On the outside of the engine I MIGHT powdercoat, I havent looked into to deep yet.

[SubaruJawn]

2 turbo are in the realm of the unknown for the ER27. If it can be done I want to do it. 2 turbos will feed the same amount of pressure but faster and at a higher cfm. I am building it the best I can to be able to handle the power. All I can say is "WE WILL SEE".

 

As for the coatings I have coated the pistons with ceramic and moly. The heads will be getting the same ceramic coating. On the outside of the engine I MIGHT powdercoat, I havent looked into to deep yet.

 

If this is successfull i'd be repeating your process. but maybe bigger turbos ect...

[joostvdw]

2 turbo are in the realm of the unknown for the ER27. If it can be done I want to do it. 2 turbos will feed the same amount of pressure but faster and at a higher cfm. I am building it the best I can to be able to handle the power. All I can say is "WE WILL SEE".

 

As for the coatings I have coated the pistons with ceramic and moly. The heads will be getting the same ceramic coating. On the outside of the engine I MIGHT powdercoat, I havent looked into to deep yet.

 

I think the ER27 will be fine with 2 turbos and with those coatings, treating and work you're doing to it

 

just be sure to watch your mixture and knock sensor and don't be upping to boost too soon (I know you want to )

 

When will you be back working on the engine?

[Gravityman]

I think the ER27 will be fine with 2 turbos and with those coatings, treating and work you're doing to it

 

just be sure to watch your mixture and knock sensor and don't be upping to boost too soon (I know you want to )

 

When will you be back working on the engine?

 

Yep agreed. I am installing a new knock sensor and I will only be starting boost levels at 5-7, that with a CR of 7.7:1 I should be fine for knock. I hope. Yes I cant wait to crank the boost!

[SubaruJawn]

how do you know when ur Knock censor is bad or when its sapose to tell you something.??

[Gravityman]

how do you know when ur Knock censor is bad or when its sapose to tell you something.??

 

The knock sensor Is used by the engine to retard or advance timing to prevent knock and keep the engine running at top performance and helps keep your fuel consumption at a leaner state. If you want to keep an eye on when you car knocks you can get a knock light. For the most part only highly tunes or custom cars would be the only ones that would need them. Unmodified stock cars, it would be pointless. Since I did build my one engine and ecu I plan on getting everything I can to keep an eye on every aspect of how the engine is running, ie. guages, knock light and so forth.

[SubaruJawn]

The knock sensor Is used by the engine to retard or advance timing to prevent knock and keep the engine running at top performance and helps keep your fuel consumption at a leaner state. If you want to keep an eye on when you car knocks you can get a knock light. For the most part only highly tunes or custom cars would be the only ones that would need them. Unmodified stock cars, it would be pointless. Since I did build my one engine and ecu I plan on getting everything I can to keep an eye on every aspect of how the engine is running, ie. guages, knock light and so forth.

 

ok. i was just wondering. but yeah a knock light would be pointless right now cuz i have everything stock exept for air filter that i converted to an air cone.

[Gravityman]

ok. i was just wondering. but yeah a knock light would be pointless right now cuz i have everything stock exept for air filter that i converted to an air cone.

 

If you like you can get a blinking light on the dash, It would at least look cool. Tell eveyone that is a...light that indicates full boost! Cool:banana:

[SubaruJawn]

If you like you can get a blinking light on the dash, It would at least look cool. Tell eveyone that is a...light that indicates full boost! Cool:banana:

[discopotato03]

Hi Gravityman , I look in on this thread and the sectioned ER27 head one regularly as I'm doing a modified spec EA82T engine here in Australia .

 

One mod you've done looks vey interesting - piston oil squirters or drillings anyway . Do you know off hand if ER27's use the same oil pump as EA82 turbos because I'd sort of like a bit more pump capacity if I'm going to do that .

Another thing is that Nissan engines with piston oil squirters generally have a small spring loaded nozzle affair that shuts off if the engines oil pressure drops below the springs load ie maybe 30 psi . Do you reckon drilling and tapping for these would be good security for you engines bearings if for any reason the oil pressure got low ?

 

Getting back to cylinder heads you mentioned ceramic coating them , do you mean the combustion chambers and exhaust ports plus possibly the deck face as well ?

 

Lastly cams , because I want the NA pistons and ~ 8.8 - 9.0 CR I'm looking at NA cams ATM . I have seen US spec XT4 cams at 20-60 60-20 though not sure if the ER ones are the same . I'd be very curious as to what maximum lifts can be had with factory style pistons and cam tunnels .

There is a mob here in Aust called Ivan Tigh Cams that do a couple of EA profiles and their 20-60 one I think is about 395 thou but not sure if thats cam or valve lift . Will get back on that one .

 

Your a bit ahead of me but once mine starts it won't take long .

 

Cheers and thanks , Adrian .

[WJM]

check valve in the squirters is a good idea.

 

the ER27 oil pump from SUBARU literature states it is 20% increase in volume over the EA82, same with the waterpump.

 

I have considered getting a new ER27 oil pump and attempt to fit it to an EA82...however, since i liquidated all my EA/ER parts and cars...it never happened.

[Gravityman]

Hi Gravityman , I look in on this thread and the sectioned ER27 head one regularly as I'm doing a modified spec EA82T engine here in Australia .

 

One mod you've done looks vey interesting - piston oil squirters or drillings anyway . Do you know off hand if ER27's use the same oil pump as EA82 turbos because I'd sort of like a bit more pump capacity if I'm going to do that .

Another thing is that Nissan engines with piston oil squirters generally have a small spring loaded nozzle affair that shuts off if the engines oil pressure drops below the springs load ie maybe 30 psi . Do you reckon drilling and tapping for these would be good security for you engines bearings if for any reason the oil pressure got low ?

 

I hate to say this but this is more or less trial. I have been looking for the oil squirters that mount it the Turbo EJ20 & EJ22. These are fairly small holes, about .03 inch dia., I zoomed in close, so it looks bigger then you would think. I cannot find the sprung jets anywhere. If you have any clue let me know.

 

Getting back to cylinder heads you mentioned ceramic coating them , do you mean the combustion chambers and exhaust ports plus possibly the deck face as well ?

 

Yep the exhaust ports, combustion chambers and on valve faces. I dont think I want to do the entire deck face, I would imagine that keeping that uncoated will help transfer heat away from the block, it could be bad for intake temps but hopefully that wont matter that much.

 

Lastly cams , because I want the NA pistons and ~ 8.8 - 9.0 CR I'm looking at NA cams ATM . I have seen US spec XT4 cams at 20-60 60-20 though not sure if the ER ones are the same . I'd be very curious as to what maximum lifts can be had with factory style pistons and cam tunnels .

There is a mob here in Aust called Ivan Tigh Cams that do a couple of EA profiles and their 20-60 one I think is about 395 thou but not sure if thats cam or valve lift . Will get back on that one .

 

I cant remember the cam specs, I think I posted them somewhere. I would imagine Deltacam would be able to tell you the specs.

 

 

Your a bit ahead of me but once mine starts it won't take long .

 

It took me quite a while to get to this point, trying to get it all right!

 

 

 

GL

Scott

[discopotato03]

Hi Gravityman , if you look in some American Nissan sites such as SR20 Forums and SR20.com they could possibly point you towards Nissan ones .

Virtually all later Nissan turbo engines ie CA18DET/SR20DET/RB20 and 25DET/VG30DET/TT use them . I don't know what EJ ones look like but the Nissan ones are usually screwed into a drilled/tapped/spot faced section with a small 90 deg tube nozzle gadget pointing vertically up at the lower sides of the piston crowns . One would assume its aimed so that the upper half of the rod never gets in the way of the spray path and that the stream is constant -when above the regulated pressure that is .

 

Oil pumps , by any chance does the ER27 one fit EA82's without mods to the EA block/case and clear all EA engine externals ie covers and crank pulley ?

 

One other performance aspect that may be worth looking into is valves with performance oriented forms behind their heads . Most OEM valves have a pronounced tulip shape to have adequate strength and heat conduction qualities when made in less than exellent materials . Since you've gone to a bit of trouble to make the ports work are better shaped valves part of your build ? On one of these Subie sites someone mentioned Harley valves are dimensionally close so maybe worth a look ?

Lastly ceramic coating the back of the exhaust valve should also provide some insulation when these are open .

 

Interesting stuff and thanks all for the pointers , cheers Adrian .

[discopotato03]

Another one for Gravityman . I found out that 86 model only (I think) EA82 carby engines use dished pistons like the EA82T ones but not dished as much . I think the compression ratio is 8.7 and a bit nearer what most current turbo engines are these days . I also think with a little bit of chamber work ie unshrouding the valves would get the CR possibly around 8.5:1 .

 

I think this is way to go with an EA82T to have good street power and not needing lots of boost to make it feel ok . The extra off boost torque the higher CR makes could possibly allow a slightly larger bolt on turbo ie early Legacy and have sligghtly better low end squirt and less exhaust housing restriction up high .

 

Cheers A .

[discopotato03]

Hi Gravityman , no time ATM but .

 

By ccing EA82T pistons/chambers/head gasket the CR comes out to be 8.4:1 - if the piston crowns are flush with the cases deck . They must not be if the advertised CR of 7.7:1 is correct . An easy way to get the 8.4 (or a little more) would be to mill the deck faces to get the pistons flush . When you do the cam timing will change so the pulleys need to be modified to correct it . Basicaly slot the three bolt holes and the dowel hole . Dial it up correct and mark it . Weld up the dowel hole in the pulleys and redrill in the correct position . Fixed .

 

Cheers A .

[Gloyale]

I still need the heads ported and flowed and new cams. I think I am going to be powdercoating the whole engine. It still has barnicals all over it. I am going to have to sandblast it all off and P/C it.

 

What about polishing the top of it to mirror shiny finish? I've always wanted to do that to an EA82T with a Spider intake(so you can actaully see some of the block)