yarikoptic Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 Whenever I was in the store looking for Mobil 1 for the bearing I saw two tubes of Mobil 1 -- 1 had mentioned CV joints as well in the list of applications. Otherwise I didn't spot obvious difference but since the one "with CV in the list" was the last and opened can I chose regular Mobil 1. Now I can't find online examples of the other one. Mobile 1 I have lists applications: "suspension ball joints, universal joints, steering linkages and chassis". Since our drive shafts are not based on universal joints I question application of Mobil 1 to pack them (although I found quite a few instances online where people reported packing with Mobil 1) since Mobil 1 is light (if there is any) on moly content which seems to be common for CV joints greases. The basic requirements for a CV joint grease are that it be a high-tact grease (meaning it will stay where it is placed) and that is must have lots of poly-sulfide strands, which handle pressure well (essential in CV joints) and will stay put (see first requirement). Mobil 1 synthetic grease has light tact (due to a lack of a sufficient amount of poly-sulfide) and is not suitable for CVs. So I guess I should better get a moly containing grease right away or just mix Mobil 1 with a compatible grease following the chart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegAC Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 Whenever I was in the store looking for Mobil 1 for the bearing I saw two tubes of Mobil 1 -- 1 had mentioned CV joints as well in the list of applications. Otherwise I didn't spot obvious difference but since the one "with CV in the list" was the last and opened can I chose regular Mobil 1. Now I can't find online examples of the other one.Mobile 1 I have lists applications: "suspension ball joints, universal joints, steering linkages and chassis". Since our drive shafts are not based on universal joints I question application of Mobil 1 to pack them (although I found quite a few instances online where people reported packing with Mobil 1) since Mobil 1 is light (if there is any) on moly content which seems to be common for CV joints greases. The basic requirements for a CV joint grease are that it be a high-tact grease (meaning it will stay where it is placed) and that is must have lots of poly-sulfide strands, which handle pressure well (essential in CV joints) and will stay put (see first requirement). Mobil 1 synthetic grease has light tact (due to a lack of a sufficient amount of poly-sulfide) and is not suitable for CVs. So I guess I should better get a moly containing grease right away or just mix Mobil 1 with a compatible grease following the chart. I wouldn't personally get too caught up in what a compound does or does not contain. Either it is recommended for a specific application or it is not. Molybdenum is a great anti-wear additive, but isn't found in some motor oils. Does that make those oils bad? No, it just means that they've found other additives to substitute for the traditional Moly content. Everything you say is more than likely true. I haven't done too much investigation on axle lubes. I would just call mobil and see if it gets their blessing. I agree that a slight tact may not be the best choice, but sometimes synthetic compounds can get away with certain things that a conventional product couldn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 I would use the grease only if it specifically says good for CV joints. Generally CV joint greases are great for wheel bearings too, but not the other way around. Redline CV-2 from a race shop or summitracing.com might be a nice choice. If the joint you're working on can't be fully disassembled to flush out all the old grease, then I'd stick with OE grease. Not all greases mix well together. If you order a kit from a dealer or online dealer, you'll get a nice new boot, bands, and grease. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 On 3/13/2007 at 9:16 AM, porcupine73 said: Redline CV-2 from a race shop or summitracing.com might be a nice choice. This is what I use when rebuilding CVs and DOJs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan909 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 I don't really know enough about this, but I do note that when I replaced a couple of CV boots last summer (the kits came with grease packets) the instructions were quite specific about not cleaning the joints with solvent, because the solvent residue may break down the grease. They indicated soap and water only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 25 minutes ago, jonathan909 said: I don't really know enough about this, but I do note that when I replaced a couple of CV boots last summer (the kits came with grease packets) the instructions were quite specific about not cleaning the joints with solvent, because the solvent residue may break down the grease. They indicated soap and water only. Brake cleaner doesn't leave any residue, but solvents like gasoline and diesel fuels will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan909 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 3 minutes ago, carfreak85 said: Brake cleaner doesn't leave any residue, but solvents like gasoline and diesel fuels will. Sure - a highly volatile degreaser like trichloroethylene is residue-free, but that strikes me as a pricey way to clean CV components. They're really referring to common cleaners, esp. the varsol we have in our parts cleaning tanks. Anyone who uses gas as a cleaning solvent (indoors) deserves to have the fumes creep into his basement and blow his house off its foundation. Gasoline is evil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 a lady here at work just lost her husband - seems he was carrying a plastic gas 'can' through the house (dunno many details), sat it down to use the cell phone (cell phone records indicate it was in use near the time of the explosion) and a space heater or other ignition source caused the door and every window in the back of the house to be blown into the back yard. He lasted about a day after being careflighted to the hospital. Burned over 95% of his body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 Good grief. Good reminder if anyone gets a wild hair with nasty gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 naturally we were curious as to how it happened. was it some kind of appliance - , propane or starting a fireplace with gasoline, etc..... The house is all-electric so, it took fire investigators some time to get a handle on what happened. They found a piece of plastic from the gas 'container'/can. The firemen found him in the burning house so, he never seemed to have a chance to escape before they were called and arrived. The victim was never able to communicate with anyone. coworkers were discussing this, I admit there have been times that cutting thru the house with lawn equipment was 'handy' - but I can't recall a single instance of doing that with any fuel-powered device or a gas can. Other coworkers admitted they had, one guy even rolled his mower thru his house. Since folks are nowadays accustomed to stopping w'ever they're doing (even, annoyingly, face-to-face conversations) to answer a cellphone call, I could see someone just setting a gas can down to have a cell conversation.... sad thing for his family - huge shock of course. He was in his 40s I think, wife, one kid in college, the other just graduated high school. guys, if you have folks depending on you, try to stay safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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