Can Anyone give advice on a brake job?

[beataru]

It is a turbo....

[psylosyfer]

*I* made the mistake of not reading my haynes manual thoroughly enough when doing my rear brakes on my 2wd soob.. the haynes mnual, under torque specs lists rear hub nuts at something ridiculous like 150 ft-lbs... but then, in the text section, for the 2-wheelers, it says rear hub nuts should be at like 40 lbs or something.. unsure of the ACTUAL numbers, but my point is when I did my brakes, i tightened the living hell outta the castle nuts. THAT NIGHT one rear wheel seized on me on my drive home, and within a week the other had gone out, too.

 

In other words, DO NOT grossly overtighten used rear wheel bearings unless you DO know the torque specs needed. At least, thats what my sooby wants. (I wound up flat-spotting the tire on the wheel that seized, and that was the ONLY set of four brand new tires I've bought in my life. me == po' b!tch)

4wd vehicles 148 ft/lbs. frnt 145 ft/lbs. rear (factory specs.)

[psylosyfer]

Yea, what he said......

You will need a "special tool" to turn the caliper pistons back in. It's a round disc with two nubs, or fingers that grab the notches in the caliper piston, and it fits on your rachet like a socket. If you have a hard time keeping it on the piston while turning, it's hard to do, check to make sure the extension on your ratchet isn't protruding out of the backside of the "special tool" and holding it off of the caliper piston. I had to grind mine down a bit. And you will need to turn them all the way in to get it back together.

Re-grease the slide pins, the lower one comes all the way out. and put a little dab of brake gease on the upper and lower contact points of the brake pads.

I use a torque wrench on the castle nut, 145 ft/lbs on new bearings, and I usually remove it with a torque wrench to get an idea of how tight it needs to be put back on with old bearings.

Pick up an injector needle for your grease gun. It looks like your worst nightmare of a hypodermic needle but it fits on your grease gun to inject grease into rubber boots and such. It works great to slip into your bearings and re-grease them while the rotor and hub is out of the way. You'll see the bearings after you take the rotor and hub off.

It's easier to loosen up the four 14mm head bolts that hold the rotor onto the hub while it's still on the axle, and to tighten them during assembly.

Clean the gunk off of the outer bearing seal while your at it too.

Be sure to spray the new rotors well with brake cleaner to remove any oil from the manufacturer.

Oh, and just a dab of the brake noise eliminator stuff does the trick. Just on the areas where the calipers do not touch the back of the pads. I do this after the caliper is back on.

 

Ok, that's all the tips I have. I just did all this on my hatch so it's fresh in my head. Rear brakes next week.

 

Good luck!

I have had great results using a large channellocks slightly open just put over grooves and turn.

[psylosyfer]

Woah woah woah... I need a freaking tool to rotate my pistons back into position??? Who the heck thought of that??? What were they smoking back in japan. Tomarrow is going to suck. but thanks for telling me this.

Actually nicer than cracking brake lines and using a monster "C" clamp like most cars! just screw the calipers piston back in and good to go!

[psylosyfer]

ALLRIGHT DAMN.... I have the drivers side apart, its clean, pretty, and well, my pads still had 35% left, It looked a lot worse when I had it in the air at my school.

Anyways, I took the old pads off, And am putting the new ones in,

I have said a few naughty words when turning the piston back but I think i got it. So Im putting the new ones on, Yes I checked and their the exact fit, as the old ones. But I think the retaining spring on the piston side of the caliper is bad or something, It wont hold the pad tightly, the sliding part holds it nice and tight. Help me please, Do I need new springs?? I have to get these things done today or, Im not going to school tomarrow.. I hate sliding calipers,

I did my dads yota, ( monoblock calipers, much better and easier.) and it took me 45 mins, and I was taking my sweet rump roast time!!! (Im not saying I hate my roo, I love working on my car, because, its my car....)

So when I turn in the piston, Do I need to go until it stops?? I am buying a Manual after this job is done. Please tell me all the problems and solutions that you guys have, so I dont have to ask for them I have to get this done, oh yeah, I AM NOT ASKING SOMEONE AT CHECKER OR AUTOZONE FOR HELP, I do want this done right, oh if you work their sorry, you guys are probably better than the tards that we have here in AZ. These guys at Checks and Autozone think they know everything.

Screw the piston clockwise until it is flush with the hole it's in (or enough to clear new brake pads over disk)

[86BRATMAN]

You can get the tool at advance auto for around 5 bucks. The one I have is a cube, with different sides made for different style.

 

The channel lock idea is ok, but you run the risk of damaging the seal around the piston and costing you more money than if you have proper tools in the first place.

[psylosyfer]

OK so, I might have gotten air in the Lines, I accidentally opend the drivers front side bleeder, and let fluid, gravitly escape, air in the system, YA THINK??? Im at my bro in laws shop and we are furiously bleeding the system with millions of bubbles that are microscopic, but there getting out, Every tech in the shop agrees that it is not the master, its air, I got a quote on a new master, 125.99 (yeah right) thats 1/10 of my cars worth, and Im a starving student so I think Ill wait to see how it goes with the bleeding, by the by, does anyone know a way to bleed the hill holder??

You may be able to find the rubber parts to rebuild your master cylinder if needed. rebuild kits are around $15,

Opening the bleeder should not have let in "millions of bubbles" unless the master ran dry or someone pumped the pedal while it was open.

If you did the rear shoes your pedal will go to the floor "or close" until the self adjusters open a ways, After you bleed th system you'll want to roll backwards a brake firmly several times to adjust the rear and take up the space between the shoes and drums.

Also I never needed to in a subaru but once I had a volvo that had to be pressure bled, your local tire shop probabaly has a pressure bleeder to fix you up if all else fails.

[psylosyfer]

PCCB stands for Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake, Its available on all of their cars, Their in essance, the brakes that you see Get and Stay RED HOT during Lemans racing, Personally I think its a waste of money since porsches brakes are already UN-REAL, but it would be cool to have a brake system thats worth 5 times my car.

Oh and Dot 4 can work in dot 3, Its just like premium gas for a car that doesnt have ping with regular, its overkill, Porsches use it to keep their braking status up to the highest standard.

My girlfriend bought beveled ceramic brake pads for her Blazer (three times the price of raymac composite) I figured they saw her coming! But Now I have to say. They are SO much of an improvement that they are worth every

cent! The vehicle had fade from the start, Its gone, The car stops far shorter but does it with what feels like less effort than the old brakes took to stop over more distance, And they are dead silent (so far) without the use of any brake quiet chemicals or devices.Did I mention They also came with a "limited" lifetime warranty?

P.S> the $10,000 each carbon fiber secret composite brake disks that team corvette used at Le Mans also glowed bright red the whole race until they all failed! They were the favorite (having a multimillion dollar budget) before the brake failure.

[Virrdog]

Ok, I am in the middle of my first EA82 front brake job. I have one side apart, when I get home tonight I'm sliding all the new stuff on.

 

Quick questions: What do I need to lube up before I put this all back together? Should I pack some grease into the bearings? Use loctite on any of the bolts? I'll regrease the sliders on the caliper, should I put some on the backs of the pads and sliding points on the bracket?

 

Thanks.

 

I'll probably take enough pictures doing the other side to make a how-to...