U-Joint play

[lvsubaru]

I'm in the middle of rehabbing my 78 brat, and as I was slapping the trannie back in I noticed that the rear U-joint has alot play in it. I know the driveshaft is only driven while in 4WD, so would a sloppy U-joint cause any drivabilty problems in 2WD on the street?

Is the rear U-joint even avaliable seperatly, or do I have to get the complete drivesaft?

Thanks.

[moosens]

There's some on ebay,probably right now.I had seen one recently,like just this past week.

[MachineAgeVictim]

well the shaft still turns even if it's not engaged (the rear wheels/gears will turn it)

 

if it's off balance then it'll cause a bad vibration through the car, very noticable, if it does then you can unbolt the back of the shaft and tie it up with wire till you can get it fixed.

 

to fix it then you'll only need the joint (looks like a "t" with round bearings on each end) and you'll need a press to get it together/apart

[idosubaru]

you'll want to fix that, i would not leave it. they can do nasty things once they let loose.

[SUBARU3]

I have a good drivesahft and a new universal joint, (in box) if you are interested.

 

Todd

[Reveeen]

Far from being the "brightest light" on the planet I simply fail to understand the U-Joint "problem".

You simply replace as needed...............

These guys make them:

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

And will sell you one on-line.

BUT if you are in a "big hurry" you would go down to your local NAPA store and buy one (a Rockford U-Joint in a NAPA box) and pay a little bit more, but you will get it faster.

[nipper]

I have mine rebuilt by a driveshaft shop. If you have never replaced a stacked U joint before, or doint know how a u joint and drive shaft works, its easier to let somone else do it. The actual replacement is straight forward, but its critical that everything is lined up perfectly so there is no vibration in the shaft.

Vibration can do terrible things in a drive shaft.

 

 

nipper

[Quidam]

Far from being the "brightest light" on the planet I simply fail to understand the U-Joint "problem".

You simply replace as needed...............

These guys make them:

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

 

I replaced a drive-shaft in a EA-82 car last week, and have another front shaft to replace, but I've got parts cars. I'm also getting a collection of drive-shafts with worn out u-joints. I haven't had to R&R any u-joints, yet.

 

Someone please set this straight. Someone who has actually done the job. My understanding is: Once the staked joint is out, the replacement is done with 4 circular clips, and you don't re-stake the joint. True or False?

 

If true, then it's really no big deal to get that joint "centered". If someone has never done u-joints I can understand the "problem", btw. All that's required is a careful competent gear head. What am I missing here?

 

Doug

[idosubaru]

Far from being the "brightest light" on the planet I simply fail to understand the U-Joint "problem".

it's not about being bright or not, you've obviously never done it. Subaru's are staked in u-joints as nipper mentioned. they have to be cut out. get a sawzall or dremel, some gloves and eye protection and go to town. be careful not to cut the yoke, there isn't much room to work with cutting the old one out. the old joint needs to be cut out, then the yoke needs to be prepared to accept the rockford u-joints you're talking about. they have end caps and clips that need to fit propertly in yokes that weren't originally intended to accept them. then the yokes have to be aligned properly, otherwise the driveshaft will be very lumpy and your new ujoints won't last very long. i have them on my driveshaft. it is not a straightforward press out and press in like a truck or jeep, they weren't intended to be replaced that way. it can be done, but is better left to a shop unless you have a good assortment of tools, experience and determination. they aren't cheap, $30 each. you can buy a used driveshaft for that much and not have to worry about all that work and whether or not you get it right. also be very careful with the ujoints, the needle bearings under the caps are very fine and easily fall out or come out of alignment while you're doing this job.

[4x4_Welder]

Up through the EA81s, the u-joints were replaceable, and just held in with clips. Starting with the EA82s, they were staked in. I just did the rear one on my Hatch, not hard. There is nothing to be critically lined up there, no splines, just put a mark on both yokes before taken apart to make sure it's together right and not 180º out, but that's not absolutely critical, either. It -may- cause a slight vibration if put together out of place, but not very likely.

[agerber]

I just replaced both my u-joints on my 79 brat. If you have never done it I would suggest having it done or at least getting assistance from a friend who has done it before. As far as geting things aligned it is very simple. When you get all of the clips in and looking like they did origionaly then it is aligned. there is no room for misalignment when all is installed. The most critical part about the job is keeping all of the needles from falling out of position. (if this happens then you will not be able to snap the rings that hold the u-joing together, into place)

 

I have never heard of cutting U-joints out (what goes in in one piece will come out in one piece) If you feel like you need to cut to get it out you should probebly consult a mechanic first.

 

I personaly haven't replaced very many u-joints but i have observed while working on a farm in kansas.

 

I am searching for rear CV-axels mine are shot and causing vibrations.

 

Any leads on where I can get some for the Rear

[Reveeen]

you've obviously never done it.

 

Could have fooled me...............

 

This is the easiest way to do it, or at least I *think* this is the easiest way to do it, maybe someone can tell me differently.

 

1) remove driveshaft assembly

2) The Subaru driveshaft is a balanced unit, if you don't put it back together EXACTLY how it came apart it will need balancing, to avoid this you mark all the flanges on either side of the U-joint (I use a center punch).

3) you get your new U-joints (from wherever and eyeball them up for size)

4) you cut the center of the old U-joint out (a torch, a sawzall, I use a grinder with a cutter disk)

5) The trunions (where the U-joint caps go) on Subaru drive shafts are VERY soft and will NOT stand a lot (ANY) of BF hammer work (this is why you cut the center out) gently tap the remaining U-joint pieces out (inwards) of the trunions.

6) using a Dremel (or other rorary tool) clean out the holes (where the caps go) of the burr from staking the old joint in, and any rust/scale build-up, don't go hog wild here, you are just cleaning up, not opening up.

7) install the new U-joint pressing the new caps in GENTLY, you do not want to collapse/bend the soft trunions (I use a big C-clamp, a vise, or hammer will collapse the trunions).

8) install the U-joing cap retaining clip on the cap inside the trunion (this is going to tell the tale here, if you were too rough with the trunions the clips won't fit because you bent the trunions. I have seen guys bend the trunions back with a piece of pipe, but the *trick* to this whole thing is not to have to mess with this, possably causing the driveshaft to run out of true).

 

This is not a typical BF hammer U-joint job, it requires you to "go lightly" and pay attention.

[lvsubaru]

I replace it yesterday. It had clips, and was a pretty easy job. Part was only $16.00.

Thanks for the help guys.

[nipper]

I replace it yesterday. It had clips, and was a pretty easy job. Part was only $16.00.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

I wish they all had clips.

 

Good deal.

 

nipper