Phizinza Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Ok... I know I know, I should do a search, blah blah blah. But I don't feel in the mood and the other day I spent an hour and a half looking and turned up nothing. I have code 22 and 24 (and 35, but I know why that one is popping up) on my 89' EJ22 in my Brat. So, I heard something about the ECU being able to hold old codes in it and they the ones that show might not be current. How do you clear them? I want to make sure the engine really has the knock sensor and idle valve problem before I start looking into it more. Also I read a lot about people cleaning the idle valve and a lot of people telling people to clean the idle valve. But in NONE of the cases did it help.. So what is this good for? Has it helped anyone on here? If so, tell me! As for the knock sensor, where is that on the engine and what normally goes wrong with them? Thanks for the help people~! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Knock sensor looks for the motor to emit a certain frequency through the metal indicating a knock. It is located on the d/s of the motor near the bellhousing and coolant tubes. Black with a single wire coming from it. IIRC its held to the block with a single 12mm bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 Thanks Bratman, but after I cleared the codes from the ECU and put a 65ohm resistor in place of the purge solenoid the only code showing now is 24. I'm going to give it a clean, but from what I have read that is just about pointless. Oh well, we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 Cleaned the IAC.. looked good for a while. Then on a long drive the car almost stooled when I came to a stop and then it started that fuel cut thing under lead foot driving. And now the light comes on and goes out randomly. Not for a second or two, but will come on, and then 5min later go out, then ages later come back on.. And code 24 is back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 It appears you have a bad connection to the purge solenoid somewhere. I would suspect the connection at the solenoid first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 It appears you have a bad connection to the purge solenoid somewhere. I would suspect the connection at the solenoid first. I've already fix the purge solenoid problem. I used the resistor idea on that one and it went away and hasn't come back.. Are you still trying to say that because I don't have the real deal in there it is affecting the the IAC? Sounds a little weird.. In my other thread the postie reminded me of what he said a while back which was the main relay might be half broken. Apparently it supplys the IAC with 12v's. So I'm going to check that out next. Just need to find another relay. So to put everyone upto speed, I onoly have code 24 now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Thanks for the clarification, I misunderstood your post. Check the voltage at the IAC solenoid and see what you have. If it is less than 12 volts then there is either a bad connection on the line or the relay may be bad, as you stated. Checking the voltage on the line will tell you where the problem is. If the voltage is ok at the solenoid then check the resistance of the solenoid coil with the unit disconnected from the circuit. It may be open circuited and need to be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 check the resistance of the solenoid coil with the unit disconnected from the circuit. It may be open circuited and need to be replaced. I checked this a while back and both were 10.2ohms.. And that is in spec to the manual. But because it happens sometimes and not others maybe it is shorting out or something.. I'm going to replace the relay when I get a spare and time. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 I doubt it is shorting out but it may be opening up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 I doubt it is shorting out but it may be opening up. Yeah, sorry, my brain is screwed this morning... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 31, 2007 Author Share Posted March 31, 2007 Alright. Done some testing on the IAC... First up, eliminate EJ loom main relay. Instead of spending $40 on a second hand OEM Subaru relay, with running a risk of it not being wrong, I tested it with bypass wires. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_main_relay_testbypass.jpg I took the car for a drive with the relay in and running it. Then when the CEL came on and the fuel cut at full throttle came in I turned the car off, took the relay out and put the wires in (just crimp connectors on large speaker wire.) I took off and soon after the CEL came back on and the fuel cut came in again.. Heres something I thought was interesting, the CEL goes out after a while (along with the fuel cut.) And then a while later of driving, it comes back on... So, relay eliminated. Next was to make sure the IAC always was getting 12V+. So I hooked up a wire into stuffed the IAC's plug. Then ran that with another wire to the inside of the car, along with a mulitmeter. Took the car for a drive, this time it took about 10mins before the CEL came on, but it still came on.. And when it was on, the IAC was getting a very constant 13.7X volts. So the IAC is getting good volts at all times. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_iac_volttesting.jpg Next I think I need to check the signal into the ECM when the light is out, and then when it comes back on see what it reads. My manual says the two wires for the IAC are in B44, number 1 and 2. I have no idea how I'm going to check these while I'm driving and while the CEL is on, maybe wait till tonight when my brother can help. It's just annoying how it comes and goes randomly now.. I think the volts going from the IAC to the ECU should be between 6 and 10 volts depending on if it's closed or open. Another interesting fact is the car idles fine now, even though the CEL is coming on every so offen. And, yes, the ECU has code 24 still stored in it. I was trying to wipe the codes but I forgot I left the IAC unpluged so it kept coming up with code 24 right away. Silly me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 To check the pin connections you can use a set of clip leads from your meter and you can clip them to some pins jammed into the backside of the connector. The IAC runs with 12 volts I think so it should always have that voltage when it is on. It is just a simple solenoid and is either open or closed. The intermittent code trouble may be caused by something internally in the ECU. Instead of looking at the voltage to the valve it may be better to monitor the current through the solenoid to see if that changes when the code appears. One other thing that could be going on is the ground lead for the solenoid may have a problem. The voltage will be good to the unit but current through it may go low due to a bad connection. By placing your voltmeter across the ground wire and a known good ground you will see if there is any voltage drop across the ground lead when trouble occurs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted April 1, 2007 Author Share Posted April 1, 2007 The IAC doesn't look like a simple solenoid, it's more like a electromagneticly operated tap. Turn the shaft allows more air to bypass the TB. I'm not sure if later version use this same design, but I know most other cars use more of a conventional push pull solenoid.. The IAC on my 89 EJ22 has three wires. middle is 12V from loom, other two go to B44 pin 1 and 2 on the ECU. On the IAC itself the middle pin have 10.2ohms between both the others . This is within specs. The reason I check the voltage on the IAC is because I was told a bad main relay could cause the problems I am having by cutting power to the IAC... I have a mate whos going to lend me his IAC so I can test that.. More on that later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 Thanks for the info, I wasn't aware of that. It sounds like the leads going to the ECU may control which direction the device moves by placing a ground on either end. Just a guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 Thanks for the info, I wasn't aware of that. It sounds like the leads going to the ECU may control which direction the device moves by placing a ground on either end. Just a guess. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. And adding a little power to one side and more to the other and constantly changing this can control how much it is open I guess. Because you wouldn't want it fully open or fully closed. Still no progress, haven't looked at the car for a couple of days now.. I'll update when I have more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted May 6, 2007 Author Share Posted May 6, 2007 Just an update.. After cleaning the IAC, testing the volts, and resistance, then then cleaning it again, clearing the ecu to many times, and more... I think it's gone. All I done was put another ECU in and now the code is gone. Although, theres a different code now.. Code 33, speed sensor? It makes sence because that wire is just cut off. So it has no speed sensor :-\ It drives good now though.. So that's nice. Just need to adjust the IAC idle position. It's idling around 1400. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 6, 2007 Share Posted May 6, 2007 Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for the feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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