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If I was to take an ea82 and put it on stationary mount.....


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What would I need to have it run. I was thinking of getting a spare one and attatching it to a AC generator, or an irrigation pump. I guess my biggest question is regarding the ignition. I bet you need more than the disty and a few wires??

 

I ought to check where the peak torque is too to see whether or not it would work. I would think it would make a good stationary engine, unless someone can tell me why not.

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peak torque is NOT very high rpms, IIRC..

 

I've had this same thought for and old datsun engine, since we have those lying around in abundance.. tune one up for optimum efficiency, slap a single carb on it and get me a 20Kw ST gen head, who gives a DAMN about hurricane season, BABY!!!

 

Sorry. that was an uncontrolled outburst... All I wanted to say was that peak torque (or very near it) should be reachable at fairly low RPMs...

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What would I need to have it run. I was thinking of getting a spare one and attatching it to a AC generator, or an irrigation pump. I guess my biggest question is regarding the ignition. I bet you need more than the disty and a few wires??

 

I ought to check where the peak torque is too to see whether or not it would work. I would think it would make a good stationary engine, unless someone can tell me why not.

Don't know but they are used alot in ultralight aircraft.

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peak torque is NOT very high rpms, IIRC..

 

I've had this same thought for and old datsun engine, since we have those lying around in abundance.. tune one up for optimum efficiency, slap a single carb on it and get me a 20Kw ST gen head, who gives a DAMN about hurricane season, BABY!!!

 

Sorry. that was an uncontrolled outburst... All I wanted to say was that peak torque (or very near it) should be reachable at fairly low RPMs...

 

I currently have a military 3kw (more like 6kw realistically). It is a Chrysler boxer engine, 32 cu in. Pistons are the size of a shot glass I think. :)

 

An ea82 sounds like a good project.

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well, you need a fuel pump, and either a battery w/small alternator, or a big azz generator and a little small starting battery! by the way, what fuel source are you going to use, A big tank? or something more... creative.

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I havent got that far yet. I still dont know what I am going to use to create spark. I dont want bunches of wires hanging off. I would like a simple distributor/coil setup.

 

Twill be gasoline.

 

Mind you, this is all in my head now. Trying to get a feel for the way to go.

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aaaahhhh.. my brain is hurting and I cant think of the name of the people, but would someone please link this man to the airplane EA-81 people? that way you can get some visuals on what they do for using the engines standalone in an airplane....

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Oh, I know what you mean... I've had the same ideas churning in my head, except *I* don't even have cash to think about trying to find a gen head...

 

My intent in linking you to the RAM performance site was to show you what their setups looked like, for a stand-alone engine.. outside of a car. Basically just the engine (complete with starter, alternator, water pump, distributor, and radiator) and some sort of governing system to either keep it at 1800 RPM as mentioned above, or a multiplier of some sort (Thinking a chain on the crankshaft output, in lieu of a drivetrain? You are building the generator, thats your call.) With a 2x multiplier, you could just set the idle to 900 RPMs with ease, and that should run it all day. I don't know what kind of wattage you were wanting, but in general your rated Kwatts x 2 == HP your engine needs.. so idling should provide you with up to about 15-20KW rating, with a somewhat higher peak...

 

In theory, you might also be able to connect the idle up circuit that engages when the AC is turned on.. the ECU adds fuel to compensate at idle..

 

THIS is an excellent idea, that I have thought on much.. Most of that was actually before I started USMB'ing, though, so I haven't talked it out with too many people. Unfortunately, distributor/ignition is about the one subsystem on automobile engines I still don't wuite grasp, so I can't help you with particulars there..

 

The best bet is to go read through GD's EFI conversion article for the EA-81. Even if you don't want to run the EA-81, and you want to use an EA-82, read the article.. It succinctly tears down what the EA82 SPFI system is, as a machine independent of the car it was built in.. The distributor ignition is part and parcel with the SPFI system, so it should provide the answers you need. The engine block used is largely irrelevant at this stage in planning.

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Good info!

 

As far as the engine, I am not sure which would be a better one, the 81 or 82. I dont know that much about them to comment.

 

As far as fuel delivery, I wouldnt own an injected engine. I want carb'd, and would still like to find out about the ignition system. I am the 'old school' type. I like things basic, and fixable with either a hammer, screwdriver, or crescent wrench. :)

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Peak torque of the EA-82 is at 2750 RPM, so you would need to gear it either up or down to get synchronous speed. What kind of generator do you have to connect it to? Is it designed to run at 3600 or 1800 RPM? Ideally, you also need some kind of governor, to keep the engine running at the fixed speed.

 

You will need the ECU to make the stock ignition work, and it won't be too happy without the rest of the sensors, etc. I don't know if there is a simpler distributor that will drop in and work or not.

 

You will also need a radiator, and a cooling fan. Since it is a stationary engine, I suspect the fan bolted to the waterpump pulley is the best bet. I am not sure how long an electric cooling fan would last, as they don't normally run 24/7.

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This probably wouldnt be something that ran a lot. Its would be one of those things like "I have and you dont"...lol! In the ranching industry its always good to have a stationary engine around.

 

A bolt on generator would be doable. I dont have a head at this time for it. Those are easy to come by though. This military 4 cyl I have here is a real screamer. You could hear it from there too! Too bad you couldnt leave the transmision on and hook the head to it. Being FWD that would be a nightmare though.

 

What would be a better engine to use, and 81 or 82? I would most certainly pull all the sensors, not that there are many left. There is no reason why and engine wont run with just a carb and distributor.

 

Mind you all, just brainstorming here......

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well, the argument goes that the OHV motor has no timing belts, thereby reducing chances of failure... otherwise the two engines are virtually identical..

 

and "peak torque" is what, 80-100 ft-lbs??? are you planning on needing *that* much power? that would be enough to power say, a 50KW generator..... IE, more than most large yachts (until you get to donald trump style) or motorhomes use.... 20KW should be ample for your home essentials, 50Kw oughta be able to power your entire house if you wanted....

 

20 kilowatts is 166 amps at 120 volts. 50 kilowatts is 416 amps at 120 volts.

 

Something tells me idling would be ample for a simple gen head.

 

As for "sensors" if you want to use the SPFI (most fuel efficient, most reliable to turn the engine on after letting it sit for six months, and least hassle all around) then all the critical "sensors" are integrated into the engine/intake... the biggest exception is the O2 sensor. The TPS, CTS, CAS< and MAF are all integrated components of the engine in the first place.. nothing to remove! The FI system would be my bet, on an EA-81..

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Keep in mind in this case, it is the power of the engine you want to be looking at, not the torque. Horsepower and Watts are both measurement of power.

 

If you're going to run a 20KW generator, the engine needs to be able to produce at least 27HP. More than that due to losses (friction, heat, etc).

 

1 KW = 1.341 HP

 

Assume, about a 70% efficiency.

 

So for 1KW, you'd need about 2 HP as Daeron stated earlier.

 

The engine at 1800RPM should be capable of producing the 40HP required to run a 20KW generator.

 

Also, looking at Generator heads, there are many designed to run at 3600RPM instead of 1800RPM. So, pay careful attention to what type of head you purchase.

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Assume, about a 70% efficiency.
Any non-archaic reasonably sized generator should be much more efficient than that...... You want to avoid having to use a gearbox, thats where you will loose power. Your best bet i think would be to use a 3600rpm generator, since your engine will be producing much more power here (power =speed x torque), and will be better lubricated.
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Any non-archaic reasonably sized generator should be much more efficient than that...... You want to avoid having to use a gearbox, thats where you will loose power. Your best bet i think would be to use a 3600rpm generator, since your engine will be producing much more power here (power =speed x torque), and will be better lubricated.

 

Why do brand new gas gneerators usually come with a 10HP motor on a 5KW RMS generator then?

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All interesting points, thanks.

 

I am still going to use a carb model, preferably and older one. It will have no sensors, etc. It will have 4 spark plug wires, and a couple wires going to the alternator, starter and dist...that is all. Sorry, but I am hard and fast on that one.

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...but would someone please link this man to the airplane EA-81 people? ...

 

... My intent in linking you to the RAM performance site ...

 

Well... This is: http://ramengines.com/_wsn/page2.html :)

 

Also, the Overheatin´ Should be an Issue to Think ´bout on a Stationary EA Engine.

 

Bigger Radiator / Electric Fan \ no Thermostat shall be Good Options.

 

Good Luck! :burnout:

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