weber question

[esh]

to all the weber people. do you have dieseling effect when turning off the motor? and how to get rid of it?

[[HTi]Dain]

the dieseling could be carbon build up, in the combustion chamber. possibly other areas too.

I just got my new engine running with my brand new weber on

[GeneralDisorder]

Do a search, I've covered this many times.

 

GD

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

I did get rid of that Problem, by Cleanin´ the Carbon Deposits on the Engine. to do that, at Normal engine operatin´ temps, I remove the Air Filter Box, and with engine at around 2,500 Rpm´s I let a one or two ounces of Clean Drinkable Water go right to the Carb.

 

The Engine will Reduce its Rpm´s as it Makes a Cloud of black Smoke on the Exhaust!...

 

Let engine return to 2,500 Rpm´s and let go Same amount of Water... and so on as the Cloud becomes Whiter.

 

Good Luck!

[SOOBOUTLAW]

Water down your motor? Scary, water doesn't compress. Blow anything like a HG or a piston ring yet?

[GeneralDisorder]

Water down your motor? Scary, water doesn't compress. Blow anything like a HG or a piston ring yet?

 

Incomplete. LIQUID's don't compress, but steam will. A hot engine will vaporize small amounts of water and effectively steam clean the cylinders - same thing happens when you have a HG leak into a cylinder. Water injection was used in many WWII piston fighters - it lowers the intake charge temp similar to an intercooler.

 

Anyway, all of this talk of carbon is foolishness - your problem isn't remotely related. You just need to adjust your timing, idle speed, and idle mixture. As I said - do a search - I've covered this many times.

 

GD

[esh]

did a search. lots of info.

cheers

[Frank B]

With all the time spent to type out "do a search", you could have given him the answer.

 

Get yourself a Weber tuning manual and read up on it. ANd I think there is a weber set-up guide int the USRM, (link top right).

You may benefit from installing a fuel shutoff solenoid, like the stock Hitachi has on it. I can't seem to find a pic of one installed but here's a link to a supplier. http://www.jameng.com/prices/#section_7

If the carb is set-up right, play with the timing. The only causes I have seen for run-on are incorrect timing, or too much fuel. How long has this been going on? Since you first installed the weber?

[Frank B]

Also try this, it used to be a sticky in the off-road forum.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29778&highlight=weber

[Frank B]

and this,

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21562&highlight=jets

[Frank B]

Last one,

http://www.subarubrat.com/Retrofitting%20the%20Weber%20DGAV%2032.htm

[esh]

With all the time spent to type out "do a search", you could have given him the answer.

 

Get yourself a Weber tuning manual and read up on it. ANd I think there is a weber set-up guide int the USRM, (link top right).

You may benefit from installing a fuel shutoff solenoid, like the stock Hitachi has on it. I can't seem to find a pic of one installed but here's a link to a supplier. http://www.jameng.com/prices/#section_7

If the carb is set-up right, play with the timing. The only causes I have seen for run-on are incorrect timing, or too much fuel. How long has this been going on? Since you first installed the weber?

yes, since the swap.

[Frank B]

Go throught the A/F mixture and idle set up procedures listed in the links I posted and see what that will do for you. If it still does it, play with the timing. Advance 2 degrees, run it a while to see how it runs. If it still does it, retard it 2 degrees and try it again.

[Frank B]

I like this one........

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

[GeneralDisorder]

With all the time spent to type out "do a search", you could have given him the answer.

 

People need to learn to use it. We cover this stuff like weekly.

 

GD

[Frank B]

People need to learn to use it. We cover this stuff like weekly.

 

GD

 

So what. Are you too good to repeat yourself to help other board members? Try doing a search for weber tuning, or weber set-up, or weber anything, the results are mind boggling. I have done several weber related searches and still can not find the answers I was looking for. I did find them on the web.

If it's a topic that is that popular, it should be a sticky, or in an FAQ archive.

[86BRATMAN]

So what. Are you too good to repeat yourself to help other board members? Try doing a search for weber tuning, or weber set-up, or weber anything, the results are mind boggling. I have done several weber related searches and still can not find the answers I was looking for. I did find them on the web.

If it's a topic that is that popular, it should be a sticky, or in an FAQ archive.

 

Without new people asking questions, or old people covering stuff again, what would this sight be really.

 

Maybe we should push to just have it all archived and close the place down.

 

Would that make you happy. If you don't have anything constructive or informative, WHY BOTHER POSTING

[GeneralDisorder]

So what. Are you too good to repeat yourself to help other board members? Try doing a search for weber tuning, or weber set-up, or weber anything, the results are mind boggling.

 

Apparently YOU need to learn to search too. I said I have covered it. That means search for keywords AND my board name.

 

And no, I don't like repeating myself. I've done too much of it. Take a look at my post count. We cover stuff such as this way too often and there should be a FAQ. But no one that runs this place has done it.

 

There's FAR more information availible with a simple search than we can cover in just this thread. It's best to narrow your search criterion and read all the applicable threads. You will get more info that way.

 

How many new threads do you see me make? 99.5% of all my posts are answering someone's question because either I know from experience, or I already did the search myself.

 

GD

[86BRATMAN]

I'm not trying to start another arguement, and I meant to post this up. But GD if you recall my post about the 86 std 2wd. You said that the car wouldn't have anywhere to mount the mustache bar hangers.

Well it does... Threaed holes and all. And I parted out the car before realizing that you were WRONG...

[Frank B]

Without new people asking questions, or old people covering stuff again, what would this sight be really.

 

Maybe we should push to just have it all archived and close the place down.

 

Would that make you happy. If you don't have anything constructive or informative, WHY BOTHER POSTING

 

Well that's my point.

[86BRATMAN]

OOPS. Just niticed I qutoed you. I meant to quote GD for that one.

[esh]

guys, there is no need for an argument. if someone wants to post an answer he is welcome to do so and if someone's answer is " do a search" its fine too. I appreciate any reply.

[Major Lazy]

The only causes I have seen for run-on are incorrect timing, or too much fuel. How long has this been going on? Since you first installed the weber?

 

 

OK, I have a question for anyone. I have heard from other people several times the same thing Frank B just said above. But I just dont understand..........How can timing affect the dieseling when the key is shutoff therefore no spark. Am I missing something? Carbon makes sense logically because it would raise the compression ratio.

 

My 1982 hatch diesels after turning the key off but does not ping when I drive it.

[Gloyale]

Have you checked the operation of the anti dieseling solenoid? ANY carbed soob will diesel if that solenoid is stuck open.

[GeneralDisorder]

Have you checked the operation of the anti dieseling solenoid? ANY carbed soob will diesel if that solenoid is stuck open.

 

Weber's do not have anti-deisel solenoids in stock form. They can be added for about $40.

 

But they are NOT required for our purposes. None of mine have had them. I initially had problems with dieseling too till I learned how to tune the carb, timing and idle speed.

 

#1. Carbon has nothing to do with it.

 

#2. You need to reduce the idle speed to about 700 RPM.

 

#3. The timing needs to be set properly at about 7 or 8 degrees AT 700 rpm.

 

#4. The idle mixture scew needs adjusting to bring the mixture to lean-best idle at 700 rpm.

 

All of these things work in conjuction to prevent dieseling. It's a matter of tuning ONLY and has nothing to do with carbon. I've run engines with over 300,000 with enough carbon that the timing had to be reduced to 5 or 6 degrees to prevent pinging while pulling hills - even they did not diesel when properly tuned.

 

GD