EA82 into EA81

[newsoobdude]

I have my 84 Brat thats dead in the water (engine wise) and my running 86 GL Wagon 4X4 and am wondering what it would take to put my carbed EA82 into my Brat? Is it a straight bolt in and play? I'm not doing this as a PERMINENT swap, just a temp. until I get either a) running EA81 or EJ18.

I'm tired of having no pickup truck and with summer approaching and riding season started I'd like to take my bike out without having to borrow a trailer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[tsutomu]

bump.. i am also wondering the same thing..

[GeneralDisorder]

You would need to notch the frame rail on the drivers side to clear the valve cover - a notch about 1" deep and 4" long will be enough. You can then box it with steel and paint it. Some claim they don't have to do this - it may depend on your transmission. I used the EA82 5 speed at the same time and with Jerry's kit the transmission is tipped backward slightly so it may have exacerbated the problem in my case. But be aware that the EA82 is a LOT wider, and for SURE if you don't notch it there will be no way to remove the valve covers without pulling the engine back out.

 

Move the hill holder lines to clear the distributor, and then you install the distributor AFTER the engine is in place in the bay.

 

You use a 86-92 lower EA82 radiator hose for the upper hose by cutting it slightly, and notching the fan shroud, and you use a 92-94 lower EA82 hose for the lower hose (fits perfectly).

 

Swap the pitching stopper bracket from the EA81 to the EA82.

 

Clutch bits are mixed and matched depending on transmission.

 

The EA82 produces 11 HP more in carbed form so it's not really worth the hassle. I happened to be also swapping over to SPFI at the same time and decided to rebuild the EA81.... the SPFI EA82 is 16 HP more than the EA81 in stock form and I had one laying around. But the EA81 will go back in soon.

 

GD

[TomRhere]

To add to what GD has said;

 

You'll need to lengthen the wires from coil to disty. I would do so on the EA82 disty wires leaving the EA81 wires as is. Coil lead to disty will have to be longer also..

 

If the EA82 engine has a waterpump mounted fan, I would remove it and not put it back on. Fan blades sit real close to radiator if it is put on, not to my liking...

 

You need to swap the sending unit for coolant temp gauge, and possibly the oil pressure gauge. (Mine didn't have oil gauge sender when I got it, I installed one for the BRAT)

 

My '82 BRAT was purchased with an EA82 engine in it, had the EA81 D/R-4spd behind it using the EA81 flywheel & clutch setup. Frame was not notched, but it was tight in there, about 3/8" on either side, engine to framerail. Definetly had to raise engine to pull valve covers....

 

Only problem with EA81 flywheel on EA-82 engine is ignition timing marks are in different location on the flywheels and no T-belt marks on EA81 flywheel. One can transfer the timing marks by bolting the flywheels together, crank side of one to clutch side of other. Be sure that you have the crank mount holes properly aligned...... Then mark edge flywheel with a chisel. No need to get carried away with hammer blows, just need a notch at proper location(s).

 

I pulled the engine for a re-seal and found it easier to re-install engine if I loosened the motor mount to engine bolts a bit. Helped to get mount studs thru engine cradle... Be sure to re-tighten those bolts if you opt to loosen them. Also be sure engine is centered between frame rails before tightening the lower nuts on the mount studs.

 

That's about the jist of it...