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Thermostat question


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well, you dont HAVE to drain the coolant... much..

 

What I have done for my EA-81, is just take off the top radiator hose with a bucket underneath, you drain out about 8-10oz of coolant out of the hose, and then from there you can just take off the thermostat housing... I mean its a little bit messy, but whatever... just hose it off when your done

 

No matter how much you drain the coolant, theres always some left in the block unless you take off the water pump.

 

BTW, if you want to drain all the coolant, in my opinion its better to take off the lower radiator hose, than to use that little plug thing.

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Yeah, you'd probably lose 3 quarts to a gallon if you just opened up the thermostat housing. Might as well drain it.

 

If all you want to do is replace the thermostat, you can drain the radiator below the hose level. The radiator holds almost a gallon. The petcock is on the passenger side, it comes stock with a short length of tubing so if you're careful you can drain it without a mess. Even re-use the coolant if you want. It's easiest if you take off the small metal side-plate (kind of a mud guard) under that corner of the engine space.

 

If it's been more than a year (you really should do this every 2 or 3 years), you might as well drain, flush, and refill. The way to do this is with the petcock, and the engine drain plugs. They're on each cylinder head underneath, a 14mm bolt. The RHS is up front, the LHS is toward the rear just above the cross member and hard to get to -- but a box end wrench will just fit.

 

I did some engine work over the summer so the cooling system was practically dry before I refilled it. Takes just about 7 quarts total.

 

-- Mark

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before you put the thermo in, if you havent already, make sure you boil that bitch.. make sure it opens.. I got a bad thermo just the other day.. didnt boil it.. put it in the car and took off.... 10 min later.. Boom overheated.. Stuck on the side of the road, puttin the old one back in

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too late. on both accounts. i didn't boil it, but i KNOW that it is opening. the old one was stuck closed and the engine would overheat big time. since the new "aftermarket" t-stat (non-OEM) my temerature runs more stable at about 3/8 up the guage. it seems to be doing fine with the non-soob part. wish me luck. thanks for the tips.

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i used a gm thermostat, but i had to drill a hole for the air bubble passage. i have seen generic k-maty thermos that dont have a hole either. if you use eftermarket, drill a hole.

 

if you wanted to drain the motor completely, there are drain plugs on the bottom of the heads. 14mm bolts. the passenger one can be gotten easy, but the driver side has the frame in the way, unless you get a box end in there.

 

all you nave to do is turn the petcock and drain a little, or pull the top hose.

 

i drained the radiator itself to change the intake, and the water level is JUST below the ports

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Ok... so how about some opinions on this:

 

what if you had a thermo stuck open on you...

 

my car never gets warm its about an 1/4 inch shy on the temperature gauge of what it used to be...... but i like the 1100 RPM idle that it has.. (warm up cycle kicked down basically)

 

any problems as far as over-cooling? im concerned before i go out and change mine. Like i said, i like the 1100 RPM idle with my big AEM intake. I can let my clutch out and roll with 30" tires.. soon as i give it gas.. its play time.

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the intake i installed either has it stuck open(intake has been in storage for a while) or its just missing. it worked the other day in 50 degree weather, but no that its 30 degrees i have no good heat. i put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator in front of the clutch fan, and that seemed to help.

 

i'll know if my car is getting too warm if the heat gets too hot.

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if your car never heats up you are causing un due wear on the engine, it is most eficcient and the oil works the best around the 180-210 mark where the engine runs with a good t-stat, if its too cold you get a lot of washdown with fuel getting past the rings and diluting your oil, which as we know gas is a solvent not a lube, if it runs too hot, well, good bye engine but you knew that already. a 180 is probably the best way to go, cooler in the summer but you still get heat in the winter.

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