Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Tell me about this gearbox


Recommended Posts

A few weeks back I acquired 2 gearboxes from ebay. 1 was a single range ea82 Fulltime box. The other was an empty shell with two sets of internals, 1 part-time, 1 full-time. This is the second gearbox with some gears in it. What have I made ? I'm hoping to end up with a dual range fulltime box, but in reality have no idea what I'm doing.

 

Gearbox photos

 

DSC02525.JPG

 

DSC02524.JPG

 

DSC02528.JPG

 

DSC02527.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you have two sets of center diff's with lockers? Nice score.

 

What is the diff ratios of both the center locker boxes and pinion shafts. See, some of the XT6's came with 3.9 S/R FT4WD boxes I believe.. Now I have a 3.7 FT with the 1.59 low gears, but a 3.9 is about the best setup I can think of..

 

Sorry if I'm just mubbling non-understandable stuff.. I've just finished for the day on fixing my ute.

 

The pictures you have there..

First one is a D/R FT4WD box with the 1.2 to 1 low. I know this because the pinion shaft is long and holds the center diff. And the gears on the low range aren't different enough in size to get the 1.59to 1.. The picture of the gears just sitting there look like a single range PT box, because the pinion shaft is part if the output gear set and it also has the gear for the selectible 4WD gear..

 

You want standard L series low gear, D/R FT4WD gear sets, and any casing with the FT4WD rear casing.

 

So I gather you have a FT4WD D/R box that you just pulled apart with the standard 1.2 low gears. A Standard L series box with a S/R FT4WD internals and a Standard S/R L series internals? Is that right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I have there is an abandoned project that I bought from ebay. It consisted of a fully intact single range fulltime box. an empty gearbox ( with a fulltime rear attached to it ) and the internals from two gearboxes, one fulltime ( assume single range ) and one part time ( assume dual range ). I found a 3.7 sticker on the empty gearbox.

 

I'm trying to make a fulltime dual range box out of it. At this stage I'm not too concerned over the low gear as it's for my road car. I don't even need the dual range, but figure I might as well if I can.

 

btw, I don't suppose you could photoshop one of the images and put arrows to which bit is what?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow, that's some stellar information right there.

 

its enough to give me nightmares...

 

one of these days I really have to disassemble and re assemble a complete spare tranny so I can see how all that ************ works together and it doesn't scare me so much anymore.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phiz, you are by far the tranny master !!

Thank you for taking the time to explain this.

 

I have a question - on the bottom box shot you

say the D/R is a 1.2 set up.

 

Is it true that beside the gears I see sycros?

 

Could this be another way to tell the 1.2 setup?

As the RX setup (1.2) is shift on the fly whereas the 1.5 is not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the confusion,

the "shift on the fly" I mention

is concerning

the hi to low range

as that is the gear set

I speak of and Phizinza is describing

 

All my D/R trannied Subes except for my RX

should not be shifted at any speed above a crawl

from hi range into low range.

 

It no doubt can be done but not as easiliy as the RX.

Thus my mention of sycros between the gear sets.

 

The RX is made to do this in order

to keep the engine in the fat of the torque band in

situations not requiring a full gear up/down shift.

 

Yielding essentially a ten speed gear box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the confusion,

the "shift on the fly" I mention

is concerning

the hi to low range

as that is the gear set

I speak of and Phizinza is describing

 

All my D/R trannied Subes except for my RX

should not be shifted at any speed above a crawl

from hi range into low range.

 

It no doubt can be done but not as easiliy as the RX.

Thus my mention of sycros between the gear sets.

 

The RX is made to do this in order

to keep the engine in the fat of the torque band in

situations not requiring a full gear up/down shift.

 

Yielding essentially a ten speed gear box.

 

This is what i'm talking about too. I shift in and out of low range without any bad noises or resistance at anywhere up to 50mph, in any gear. It's way harder to shift in and out of 4wd than it is to shift from lo to hi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant info! thanks phiz! a quick question :

 

can I remove the low range from the front of shaft or does the whole lot need to come apart ? Also the tab that bolts to the front of the box on it has a snapped section so only has 2 bolt holes. Can it be pulled off the front to be swapped out with a good one.

 

OOOh, also can I swap the dual range gear for a dual range from 4spd gearbox? I assume the dual range gear is the bigger of the two.

 

ft4wd_5sp_box.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a question - on the bottom box shot you

say the D/R is a 1.2 set up.

 

Is it true that beside the gears I see sycros?

 

Could this be another way to tell the 1.2 setup?

As the RX setup (1.2) is shift on the fly whereas the 1.5 is not?

Yes, they are syncros.

All the Low range gears, and 4WD selector gears in all the subaru gearboxes (well, atleast EA81 and up) use syncros. I use a 1.59 to 1 low ratio in my FT4WD box and I can easily shift from low to high at anytime (even 100kmph.) And in low, my 5th is about the same as high 3rd. But my low 1st is just too low for street use, even with my 27" tyres.

 

I have found it harder to shift the 5sp PT boxes into 4WD then it is the 4sp PT boxes. I have no idea why. Although I do know the selection shift shafts and forks are a lot more complecated in the 4sp then the 5sp (but remember, I'm talking about PT boxes here, so thats a little off topic.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

can I remove the low range from the front of shaft or does the whole lot need to come apart ? Also the tab that bolts to the front of the box on it has a snapped section so only has 2 bolt holes. Can it be pulled off the front to be swapped out with a good one.

Yes, you can remove the front bearing and clutch spline. But... You might need to take a real good hard look at the syncros on the low range because they do fall apart very easily. And it is a bit hard to put them together.. I tell ya what, when my brothers here I will video me putting the low range syncros together for everyone on here.

The 1.2 low range uses different size syncros then the 1.5 (well, at least my Liberty EJ D/R gearbox did on it's 1.2 to 1.) This means you will need the 1.5 gears shift fork and you will also need to removed the gears from both the clutch input shaft and the input gearset shaft. You will also need to take out the low range gears (they sit right behind the ones I pointed to in the picture.) All this stuff is held in with split pins and the like. I might see if I can get some better pictures to describe this.

 

OOOh, also can I swap the dual range gear for a dual range from 4spd gearbox? I assume the dual range gear is the bigger of the two.
I have not yet ripped open the main casing to my 4sp. So I'm not sure, the problem I see is if the syncros are different, and you need the 4sp shift fork, then it's coming out the wrong side of the box.

I have heard on AUSubaru that it cannot be done, but no one could explain why not. They just said it couldn't be done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh and.. For putting the gearbox back together...

 

Professionals will probably cringe at this, but.

 

I done all the diff and pinion torquing myself. I used the pinion shims that came with the casing I used (I wasassuming the casing is going more out from factory then the gear sets.) Then when the two halves were back together I set the side diff plates up so the box had as much back lash as another good box I had. Basicly you want the smallest amount of slop, only you still have to be able to feel the slop. And remember, oil in a box will make the slop feel like less, but in reality it wont have less, it will have more. And BTW, the center diff doesn't need tensioning.

 

Its very much a guess work thing when you don't have the tools.

 

My gearbox is fine, except for a small bearing noise which I think is because the Liberty box I used had the noise and I used the Liberty input gear set. So it must have a bad bearing.. Maybe if I pull it apart to fit a LSD one day I'll fix that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what i'm talking about too. I shift in and out of low range without any bad noises or resistance at anywhere up to 50mph, in any gear. It's way harder to shift in and out of 4wd than it is to shift from lo to hi.

 

My D/R N/A tranny shifts fine from low to hi or hi to low. I use it like a 10 speed in the winter time. Never makes any bad noises

 

Thats interesting to see that you "arent" supposed to shift them like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...