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So can 96-98 Legacy driveshaft u-joints be replaced?


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Factory configuration is that the driveshaft u-joints are non-replaceable and requires replacing the shaft assembly.

 

But it seems like the u-joints could be machined or cut out and replaced with a more conventional u-joint. Rather than buying a $700-$1000 shaft assembly, has anyone had u-joints replaced for considerably less?

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when i put a 5 speed into my SVX, i had to have one made at a driveshaft specialty shop. they put in servicable u joints in and made the shaft that i supplied to the correct length. i think it came out to $250-$300

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Rockford Drive Line makes replacement u-joints for Subaru and others with "non-replacable" u-joints:

 

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

 

I have zero experience with this, just something I came across one day and bookmarked it in case I needed it.

 

Do a search as there was an exentisive thread on this subject, and that supplier. On Early subarus it works, on later ones it doesnt seem to, as there is no reference point to know when the joints are centered and balanced.

 

Trust me I would be the first one to say do it in your driveway if it was possible.

 

nipper

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Do a search as there was an exentisive thread on this subject, and that supplier. On Early subarus it works, on later ones it doesnt seem to, as there is no reference point to know when the joints are centered and balanced.

 

Trust me I would be the first one to say do it in your driveway if it was possible.

 

 

Well that stinks. I guess the only reasonable way is to have a drive shaft shop do it.

 

I wonder, what is the point of using staked-in u-joints vs. the normal kind that are held in with clips?

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i'd do a search like nipper said. i've had good luck replacing the older gen stuff, but never had to do a newer gen yet (unlike HEEPS which i work on far, far less). if i did, i would look into replacing them with greaseable joints. including parts you can have all the ujoints replaced for about $200. $100 in parts and $100 in labor when i've had it done.

 

i've done it on older generation subarus without issues. have a driveline specialty shop do it. a general automotive machine shop can do it, but a driveline shop has far more experience with these and will know how to properly set the yoke distance where a generic auto machine shop typically won't do that. maybe they could look at it and let you know what they think.

 

the easiest solution with less downtime is getting a used driveshaft. in my oppinion they don't fail enough to warrant lots of effort and hassle. and they usually give lots of warning signs, so it won't leave you stranded if somehow it did start going bad. but even more important, if you inspect it prior to buying it you can get one in excellent condition that likely won't give you any problems anyway. find one locally so you can go feel it before buying, make sure it doesn't have any lumps in it. if the joins move freely and smoothly you're golden. if they're lumpy, stick or have tight spots, don't buy it. be selective and this will likely be the last one you buy.

 

make sure when you replace the driveshaft the input shaft that slides into the transmission is clean and doesn't have any rust on it. they rust quickly when removed. that input shaft rotates inside a seal, so you want a nice clean smooth surface. and be careful of that rear seal on the transmission when you're pulling the driveshaft out and reinstalling, don't band it up unnecessarily. it would be hard to mess it up, but i've seen them leak before after driveshaft removal.

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  • 3 years later...

I give him the benefit of the doubt.

 

I figured he actually used the search function (a good thing) and found this thread.

 

Then perhaps he recently did this successfully.

 

Is the glass half full?

 

Is the glass half empty?

 

I prefer to see it as half full.

 

But everyone can make their own judgement.

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The last experience I had with this was on the '90 Loyale I had. I was surprised to find that the u-joints weren't user serviceable. Fortunately, there was a long established shop that did rebuilds in town (Drive Line Service in Pittsburgh) and got a rebuilt one for a very good price. Of course, that was with exchange. It was worth the cost to do a drop-and-swap and have it right than to try to figure out what joints could fit and possibly have issues with it.

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