Valve Shims OR Hydrolic 98 Leg OB?

[Equalizer]

I am having my car worked on at a local subaru garage who is doing timing belt, seals, head gasket, and clutch. I asked him to also adjust the shims as I thought was necessary at 100K intervals. Plus I was hoping this might smooth it out. My 98 Leg OB has 145K miles and thought it best since there is no additional labor charge. BTW, you probably already know its a 2.5L DOHC. He told me that this year did Not have shims, but was self adjusting hydrolic instead. I was wondering if anyone can confirm or deny this, so I can let him know before putting everything back together?

 

Thanks!

 

eq

[Steve455]

i was told only 96 was hydraulic lifters.

[WoodsWagon]

It's shims. Each of the valves has a "bucket" that goes over it and it's spring. In the top of each bucket, between it and the valve is a quarter sized disk. This is the shim. The way to adjust them is to measure the lash with the cam in, then subtract the specification from that, then add that number to the thickness of the shim and get the right size shim.

 

I only know this because they fell out of my mom's engine when I had it appart. it took awhile to figure out which shim when where.

[Manarius]

i was told only 96 was hydraulic lifters.

The EJ22 engines have hydaulic lash adjusters until mid 1996. After that and up until recently, all Subaru engines aside from the EG33 (produced until 1997) had solid valve shims.

[Commuter]

I am having my car worked on at a local subaru garage who is doing timing belt, seals, head gasket, and clutch. I asked him to also adjust the shims as I thought was necessary at 100K intervals. Plus I was hoping this might smooth it out. My 98 Leg OB has 145K miles and thought it best since there is no additional labor charge. BTW, you probably already know its a 2.5L DOHC. He told me that this year did Not have shims, but was self adjusting hydrolic instead. I was wondering if anyone can confirm or deny this, so I can let him know before putting everything back together?

 

Thanks!

 

eq

Shims.

 

And as to the labor, it would be additional. Working on the timing belt and working on the valve shims is 2 different things. I've heard it can be done in the car, but not easily. The shim is actually between the 'bucket' and the camshaft in Subaru's set up. There was a lengthy thread on this a few years ago. In general, if you don't have noise, they don't bother.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10217&highlight=valve+clearance

 

Commuter

[Equalizer]

Shims.

 

And as to the labor, it would be additional. Working on the timing belt and working on the valve shims is 2 different things. I've heard it can be done in the car, but not easily. The shim is actually between the 'bucket' and the camshaft in Subaru's set up. There was a lengthy thread on this a few years ago. In general, if you don't have noise, they don't bother.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10217&highlight=valve+clearance

 

Commuter

 

Thanks for the thread Commuter.

Looks like there were several mechanics on there that had lots of experience with this job; knew what they were talking about.

About the labor, the engine has been out and open. All of the seals, o rings, and clutch are being done too. The owner of the shop told me at first that it wouldn't cost any more. He's been a stand up guy and is charging me for 11 hours total labor for the above work. It has 145,000mi. on it and did have a tick which quieted down a lot after an oil additive which increased the viscosity, but masked the symptom....1 qt. mystery oil, I think it was (red bottle).

 

According to a mechanic on that link, Commuter, it sounds like All '97-99 DOHC 2.5 liter engines have solid lifters and all solid lifter engines have valve adj. by shims. I wasn't in a habit of red-lining the rpms, but there were quite a lot of times the engine over-heated/ red lined on the temp guage from coolant blowing out of the jacket from the blown head gasket.

 

What do you all think?

 

eq

[Equalizer]

UPDATE:

 

I just got the car back and only drove a short distance so far.

 

Talked to the mechanic who worked on it and he took me to a bench and showed me some valves. The edges were rounded. He said that he replaced all of the exhaust valves, but the intake valves were OK. He said that all of the intake valves were within spec. so he didn't have to change them. Does this sound right on a car w/145,000 miles?

 

I drove it down the road less than a mile and it still sounded a little bit rough, and ticks. Popped the hood and could still here a tick, but the whole engine sounded different, I just can't describe how exactly. The car is suppossed to go back in for another oil change at 500 mi. to flush it out. Then good oil (my synth.) can go in.

 

Most of my driving to here was down hill, but it seems like reasonable difference in pick up. Just not like the Forester automatic with 150,000 miles that I was driving the last couple of weeks while mine was in the shop. THAT had LOTS more zip than any other Subi w/auto tranny that I've ever test drove....with much less rpms to be honest.

I noticed a little bit of steam comming up from the front while waiting at a light, after climbing a hill. I parked in a lot w/engine running and can't seem to pin-point where its comming from yet. The temp guage looks normal and the overflow tank seems like its at the same level with no bubbles.

The new clutch feels a LOT more responsive.

Any suggestions on how I should best do a post work evaluation?

 

eq

[Equalizer]

Another update and question.

 

If you didn't read the earlier posts in the thread, to get you up to speed.

One of the things that I paid to have done at the same time as my head gasket job is to have the valve shims adjusted. I talked to the mechanic that actually did the work at the shop and he said that he replaced all four exhaust valves, but didn't say anything about checking clearance, or shims, other than that all of the intake shims were within specs so he left them alone.

 

I got to drive it some this morning and when I listen under the hood, the ticking sounds just as loud as it ever did. And thats with a warm engine too. Its comming from both sides with equal volume. Can anyone think of anything else that might cause this noise? What would be your solution. I'm going to go back to the shop right now and let them know. Thanks in advance for any good suggestions.

 

eq

[idosubaru]

2.5's do have piston slap issues. it's not really serviceable, you have to live with it essentially. i mean it is, but requires tearing the engine down. the good thing is that it shouldn't get worse and won't cause any problems. you might want to search the new generation forum for "piston slap" and see what results come up. the descriptions in other threads might help you pinpoint if this is piston slap or not.

[Equalizer]

2.5's do have piston slap issues. it's not really serviceable, you have to live with it essentially. i mean it is, but requires tearing the engine down. the good thing is that it shouldn't get worse and won't cause any problems. you might want to search the new generation forum for "piston slap" and see what results come up. the descriptions in other threads might help you pinpoint if this is piston slap or not.

 

I was wondering about that. The engine was already tore down and 4 valves replaced. I was just concerned that the mechanic "might" have taken a short cut which could lead to burnt valves in the future. Its under warantee for a year, but dont' want to demand something be done for something that is normal. The shop has treated me well. I have an oil leak that they say they will open up the valve cover to get to and tighten down a bolt as soon as I bring it in for a 500 mi. oil change. I'll do that search you mentioned. THANKS!

[johnceggleston]

The engine was already tore down and 4 valves replaced.

 

which 4 exhaust valves were replaced? i thought these cars had 16 valves.

[Equalizer]

which 4 exhaust valves were replaced? i thought these cars had 16 valves.

 

Good question. I dunno.:-\

 

 

Any more suggestions about the ticking? Keep in mind this occurs long after warm up period at, or near idle. I can't hear over the rest of the engine noise at higher rpms.