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What do you guys think about the auto tranny that would be in the 2000 Outback? I am currently looking at a 2000 and was wondering what your oppinions were. I initially wanted only a manual for durability but don't know much about this tranny.

 

Thanks

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I have an '00obw and the trans has been great so far (owned it for about 20k miles now). There are a couple potential issues I know of.

 

First, some owners have experienced issues with delayed engagement to drive. Like it takes a few seconds to shift into drive. So you might want to check that out before purchase. It's some internal pump seal that 'prevents the rapid buildup of pressure'. I think there's a TSB out about it.

 

Second, though this isn't much of an issue, there is a TSB out about an rpm flare up on the first second to third upshift after a cold night. I have experienced this, but it's very minor and I think the TSB is just to let people know why it happens and that it's not 'malfunctioning'. (Some hydraulic circuit drains and takes a moment to refill).

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replace fluid often and they rarely have issues. check the fluid, records of ATF changes are good depending on mileage. turn the car in tight circles (steering wheel turned all the way), slowly in a parking lot. any binding (you'll know it) is bad. the 4EAT has been a very durable automatic transmission since it was first introduced. also, if the transmission/ATF/POWER light blinks 16 times at start up, that indicates the TCU sees an issue in the transmission.

 

you have a much greater chance of headgasket issues in the motor for that vehicle than any auto trans issues. search this new generation forum for "headgasket" if that interests you at all, it's been covered in great detail here.

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TSB is technical service bulletin. Generally they call for Dexron III or thereabouts. I'm running amsoil syn atf.

 

Yes if you go with that '00obw you want to be sure the magical mystery Subaru coolant additive (rebadged holts radweld from the U.K.) has been added under recall. That way you get I think it's 8 years 100k miles warranty on the HG's if they get that external leak.

 

Definitely check for torque bind and make sure the FWD fuse is not installed and all tire match etc. I initially had anti-torque bind in my '00obw; that is it didn't put much power the to the rear wheels. I think the transfer clutches were glazed. It was fixed after some long stop and go driving on sheer ice where I kept hitting the throttle enough to get the wheels to spin.

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What do you guys think about the auto tranny that would be in the 2000 Outback? I am currently looking at a 2000 and was wondering what your oppinions were. I initially wanted only a manual for durability but don't know much about this tranny.

 

Thanks

I have the '99 Forester with Auto, moreover, it is the most reliable(now has original 140k on it) auto I have ever owned!

One quirk, in the Winter it needs to warm a few minutes for smooth performance. That is, it tends to take a just hair longer to go into 3rd when it

gets cold outside, and before it is fully warmed.

My friend who bought her '00 OBW on my recomendation, loves the auto as well and so far her's with 85K has run flawless.

I wouldn't hessitate a second in terms of the Auto.

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What do you guys think about the auto tranny that would be in the 2000 Outback? I am currently looking at a 2000 and was wondering what your oppinions were. I initially wanted only a manual for durability but don't know much about this tranny.

 

Thanks

 

Our '00 Legacy had 188,000 trouble free miles on it when it was totaled. Regular tranny service BY SUBARU! No shifting problems, no over-revs, no torque bind.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't think this is the TSB you're looking for but I found it in "A/T - Phase 2 4EAT Transmission Characteristics". I've seen other posts about delays of like 5 seconds or more engaging into drive, I guess some leaky pump seal preventing rapid build up of pressure. Fortunately I haven't (yet) experienced it in my '00obw.

 

1. Delayed Engagement or Judder felt when shifting into Reverse or Drive.

 

Symptom When the driver shifts the select lever into reverse or drive and applies the accelerator too quickly delayed movement or a judder can be felt.

 

Mechanism It takes approximately 1.5 seconds to engage the internal clutch(s) after the select lever gear is chosen. If engine torque is increased before the clutch is fully engaged, the clutch will slip and make the judder feeling.

 

Recommendation To determine there is an internal problem with the unit, perform a 'TIME LAG TEST'. If the average is less than 1.5 seconds the unit is operating normally. If it is more than 1.5 seconds then an internal problem exists and repair/replacement should be preformed.

 

Explain to the customer the mechanism and function of the system and that it is not a defect in the unit. Also, recommend that the customer wait a second before applying the accelerator pedal.

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I don't think this is the TSB you're looking for but I found it in "A/T - Phase 2 4EAT Transmission Characteristics". I've seen other posts about delays of like 5 seconds or more engaging into drive, I guess some leaky pump seal preventing rapid build up of pressure.

 

 

 

I also have seen a lot of posts with the same problem. Even if the percentage is very low in respect to the many 4EAT transmissions around . for those having the same " delay" problem , it hurts. I have it as well.

 

For me it seems "relatively" easy to change the seals of the pump ,as it is located a place with access and without taking the transmission out.

 

Not being in the position to change easily a whole transmission as might be the case in the US , I am still waiting for somebody who fixed it himself. and explains : where , what , and how.................

 

It is important for me , as being in the "jungle" without friendly Subaru dealers around , I have to do it myself....Seals can be found and shipped easily , and will mean a ongoing live for the car.

So any information from people who have done it : most welcome

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I don't think this is the TSB you're looking for but I found it in "A/T - Phase 2 4EAT Transmission Characteristics". I've seen other posts about delays of like 5 seconds or more engaging into drive, I guess some leaky pump seal preventing rapid build up of pressure.

 

 

 

I also have seen a lot of posts with the same problem. Even if the percentage is very low in respect to the many 4EAT transmissions around . for those having the same " delay" problem , it hurts. I have it as well.

 

For me it seems "relatively" easy to change the seals of the pump ,as it is located a place with access and without taking the transmission out.

 

Not being in the position to change easily a whole transmission as might be the case in the US , I am still waiting for somebody who fixed it himself. and explains : where , what , and how.................

 

It is important for me , as being in the "jungle" without friendly Subaru dealers around , I have to do it myself....Seals can be found and shipped easily , and will mean a ongoing live for the car.

So any information from people who have done it : most welcome

 

 

Er um ....

 

I hate to rain on your parade, but the front pump is a gear type pump, very minimal seals. Usually its the seals in the rest of the tranny that gets tired. When its the front pump, its the fact the front pump has worn to the point where fluid is leaking past the vanes.

 

http://www.subaru.com.cy/subaru_new/about/parts/09.html

(there is an error in that writeup. The pump presurizes the ATF, it doesnt compress it. You can not compress a liquid)

 

http://www.carbibles.com/transmission_bible.html

 

i tripped over that one

 

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT07.pdf

 

How the pump works.

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[quote=nipper

 

Er um ....

 

I hate to rain on your parade, but the front pump is a gear type pump, very minimal seals. Usually its the seals in the rest of the tranny that gets tired. When its the front pump, its the fact the front pump has worn to the point where fluid is leaking past the vanes.

 

Thanks for all the good links , i will study them all very well.

And the last weeks I did already quite some reading.

 

Nipper , of course you are right.

Your technical knowledge is above any doubt.

But your horizon is different.

 

My position is (if things go really wrong) very easy , try to fix it or loose an equivalent of more then US$ 10.000 ; compared with cost of living and wages in respect to the US.

I bought this 14 years old Impreza recently for US$ 6000 ,

the current market value over here.

 

I do not count on a Subaru dealer network of about 10 places in a country bigger then the USA.

I hope to get it going , but just in case......

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[quote name=nipper

 

Er um ....

 

I hate to rain on your parade' date=' but the front pump is a gear type pump, very minimal seals. Usually its the seals in the rest of the tranny that gets tired. When its the front pump, its the fact the front pump has worn to the point where fluid is leaking past the vanes.

 

Thanks for all the good links , i will study them all very well.

And the last weeks I did already quite some reading.

 

Nipper , of course you are right.

Your technical knowledge is above any doubt.

But your horizon is different.

 

My position is (if things go really wrong) very easy , try to fix it or loose an equivalent of more then US$ 10.000 ; compared with cost of living and wages in respect to the US.

I bought this 14 years old Impreza recently for US$ 6000 ,

the current market value over here.

 

I do not count on a Subaru dealer network of about 10 places in a country bigger then the USA.

I hope to get it going , but just in case......[/quote]

 

Nah i was just getting at the fact that yuld be better off with a used tranny. Rebuilding an automatic is not for the novice. It used to be when a pump went bad they would just replace the pump. For some reason they dont do it anymore. Best i can reckon is that the tranny is slipping a little bit, you just cant tell with a weak pump.

 

nipper

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