92 Legacy running extr. rough. Failed smog

[nipper]

Yes that would give you poor running and failed emissons. WHat your going to need to do (and what i would do) is to do a cylinder leakdown test. WHen you get all timing back in spec, this will tell you if you have a sealing problem or a cam timing problem. And yes like stated above, if its a cam timing problem, you need to replace the idlers and tensioner too.

 

 

 

nipper

[salewit]

Well the question of why the timing was off is a good one. This engine is actually a junk yard replacement that my girlfriend had put in about 6 months ago. It never ran right. It had a 3 month guarantee on it, and she never did anything about. She bought a new 2006 Outback and gave up on this one. I love driving it (tightest steering I've ever experienced!).

 

Anyway, I don't know whether the thing jumped while we had it or possibly the belt that was on it was never properly set right. Tension was tight on the old belt, and when I pulled it, the camshafts were not super difficult to turn. The idlers had no slop in them. And the tensioner was definitely putting up a fight when I was re-compressing it.

 

 

The only strange thing about it, was there were green paint marks on the timing marks on the 2 cams and crank pulleys. But the green paint was about an inch away from the mark on the left pulley.... you can make it out in the picture above. The other two had the paint right on the marks. I'm pretty sure the white mark I put on was THE mark. It was clear as day, and when I turned the pulley left and right a little, there were no lobes pressing on any valves. It turned very easily.

[OB99W]

Well the question of why the timing was off is a good one. This engine is actually a junk yard replacement that my girlfriend had put in about 6 months ago. It never ran right. [...]

 

Anyway, I don't know whether the thing jumped while we had it or possibly the belt that was on it was never properly set right. Tension was tight on the old belt, and when I pulled it, the camshafts were not super difficult to turn. The idlers had no slop in them. And the tensioner was definitely putting up a fight when I was re-compressing it.

Since you don't know the history of the engine, among other things it would make whether to replace the idlers and tensioner somewhat of a judgement call; they may have been replaced previously. Now that the engine is properly timed, if you have the patience, you could try reassembling things and see if there are other problems, and how severe they might be. The sooty plugs could still be an indicator of things beyond timing, including something simple like the wrong heat-range plugs; what plugs are installed?

 

 

The only strange thing about it, was there were green paint marks on the timing marks on the 2 cams and crank pulleys. But the green paint was about an inch away from the mark on the left pulley.... you can make it out in the picture above. The other two had the paint right on the marks. I'm pretty sure the white mark I put on was THE mark. It was clear as day, and when I turned the pulley left and right a little, there were no lobes pressing on any valves. It turned very easily.

If the green paint is relevant, it may be that the timing was way off before. However, sometimes people mark the sprockets and the belt before removing it, and don't necessarily put the paint on the factory mark. It seems like you have correctly identified the marks now.

 

By the way, the picture shows the right cam sprocket misaligned, not the left; right/left orientation is as when you're sitting in the car, and there seems to be an "R" on the part.

[salewit]

Well I got everything back together and started her up, and it's running absolutely smooth as silk! Took it for a test drive and it now has power like never before.

 

Thanks everyone for your guidance! I still have to pass smog, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed on that one.

 

The only weird thing I did notice was a lot of white powdery dust in the upper radiator hose and inlet. Nowhere else. I'll flush it through a few times and keep an eye on it.

 

Now on to my Ford diesel truck problems....it never ends.

[ron917]

Well I got everything back together and started her up, and it's running absolutely smooth as silk! Took it for a test drive and it now has power like never before.

 

:headbang::headbang::headbang:

[Cougar]

It looks like your training paid off. Thanks for the update and glad you got it running well. I think you will pass the test ok now.

[OB99W]

Well I got everything back together and started her up, and it's running absolutely smooth as silk! Took it for a test drive and it now has power like never before.

Congratulations!

 

 

Thanks everyone for your guidance! I still have to pass smog, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed on that one.

You have a pretty good chance of passing. I'm assuming there's fresh oil in the crankcase now; if not, change it before the inspection.

 

 

The only weird thing I did notice was a lot of white powdery dust in the upper radiator hose and inlet. Nowhere else. I'll flush it through a few times and keep an eye on it.

See my post #3 in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73339 Be sure that besides using the proper antifreeze type and concentration, there are no air pockets left. These engines are somewhat "fussy" in that respect, and really don't like coolant voids.