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stupid loyale clocks


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I think the dash clock in my '92 loyale keeps time, but the display is so dim it's unreadable. The wiring diagram in my Chilton doesn't match the car...so I'm not sure if it's my clock, or something before it. I think it's the clock because I can get the display to light up by pressing the time set buttons, but it dims again as soon as I let go.

 

Different models seem to have slightly different wire colors and connectors, but here's the wiring situation...

 

"Batt" is always hot

"Acc" hot when key @ ACC or ON

"Ground" is ground

"Lamp" is only hot when key is ON and lights are on, otherwise dead

 

If this all sounds correct, then it must be the clock. I've tried two other clocks from the salvage yard and they did the exact same thing. Is there some place to get either a new, or at least guaranteed used, dash clock?

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I think the dash clock in my '92 loyale keeps time, but the display is so dim it's unreadable. The wiring diagram in my Chilton doesn't match the car...so I'm not sure if it's my clock, or something before it. I think it's the clock because I can get the display to light up by pressing the time set buttons, but it dims again as soon as I let go.

 

Different models seem to have slightly different wire colors and connectors, but here's the wiring situation...

 

"Batt" is always hot

"Acc" hot when key @ ACC or ON

"Ground" is ground

"Lamp" is only hot when key is ON and lights are on, otherwise dead

 

If this all sounds correct, then it must be the clock. I've tried two other clocks from the salvage yard and they did the exact same thing. Is there some place to get either a new, or at least guaranteed used, dash clock?

 

You can try checking with this post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12

 

he has some good info about the clocks there

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yeah, I pm'd northwet but didn't get a response so I was hoping to find another source. I don't know anyone (including myself) with a soldering iron or skills.

 

So does this mean everyone agrees its the clock, not the wiring?

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yeah, I pm'd northwet but didn't get a response so I was hoping to find another source. I don't know anyone (including myself) with a soldering iron or skills.

 

So does this mean everyone agrees its the clock, not the wiring?

 

Yeah. it's the clock. They suck. Most go dim, and many stop keeping good time, (like mine)

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You may be able to fix it your self. Look at the PC board, at all the little solder joints. Most likely you'll see one or two that are discolored, or rough looking, or maybe you'll even see where the wire is loose from the actual solder.

 

Resolder it with a low wattage soldering iron, or find a friend who knows

how to do this kind of thing, and that may be all you need.

 

Good luck!

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  • 2 years later...

Question - Are the positive voltages that go to the clock all 12 volts, including the light dimming circuit? I'm ditching the trip computer (did the analogue swap and trip no longer functions) and want to throw in the normal clock. The trip runs on everything BUT 12v.

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My clock was the same way. All I did was reheat the old solder in a few place, and add a little to some others. Think it was maybe 8 solder spots total. Took about 3 tries to get all the connections solder better and about 15 min total, but it fixed it right up. If I was closer I would do it for you.

 

It's super simple. You really don't even need any soldering skills. I just picked up a 15watt radio shack soldering iron for about $8, and some solder for about $2 and went to town on the clock. What's the worst that can happen, you break a clock that's already borken? :lol:

 

I would give it a try, you might be surprised on what you can accomplish. Soldering isn't that hard to do, and it's a good thing to know, especially when working on these older cars. My 2 cents.

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I've re-heated the solder connections only to have the clock fail again shortly. It helps to get some new solder on there as the old seems to not conduct like it should. Maybe there is some kind of oxidation. I've also done this to wiper and light switches with good results.

Edited by dhise
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I've re-heated the solder connections only to have the clock fail again shortly. It helps to get some new solder on there as the old seems to not conduct like it should. Maybe there is some kind of oxidation. I've also done this to wiper and light switches with good results.

 

 

ditto on that. use flux and new solder,..Detroit Rock City :headbang:

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