daehttub2000 Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 I had the drivers side front CV/boot/axle replaced last Sunday at Pep Boys. The second time I drove the car after the Pep Boys repair the Battery and Brake warning lights came on. I’ve never had warning lights before. Coincidence? Ham-fisted journeyman mechanics? What do you think? Some of you cautioned me about using Pep Boys. Maybe you were right. I just found a Chicagoland Checkbook survey that showed a 19% satisfaction survey for Pep Boys. Doh! 95 Legacy L Wagon 150,000+ miles. Battery is just under 5 years old but topped off monthly with trickle charger when not driven frequently. Original alternator. New Rotors and brake pads at 122K. No prior warning lights ever. Belts look good. Replaced with timing belt around 122K. Brakes: Brakes feel fine. Car stops fine. I topped off the brake fluid just in case but the light is still on (fluid was midway between max and min). Battery: When the car has been parked for a while, I notice the headlights dim slightly at night on the rear of the car ahead of me when I press the brake pedal at a traffic light. I just had trouble starting it tonight for the first time. I had to use the battery charger on high for a couple of hours to get it started. The negative (black) battery connected is all bent up from a clumsy battery change from the Subie Dealer (chuckleheads, long story) and doesn’t tighten anymore. It needs crimping or replacement. I had no battery warning light when the first battery in my Subaru died after 7 years. O.K. I know 5 years is the upper limit of battery life:rolleyes: . I’m going to check the alternator connections in the morning just to make sure it isn’t something simple (a long time ago, an unplugged alternator caused me some grief). Should I play the irate customer when I bring my car back to Pep Boys? I’m thinking they could have goofed something in the brake system up when they were messing with the CV/axle. The battery light and recent problems have me perplexed as to the timing. Why now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 sounds like your alternator died, check the voltage at the battery should be 14+v 14.4 to be exact. Doubt pep boys have anything to do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAezb Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Yep, alternator. ABS lamp also on? From personal experience, I'd stay away from Pep Boys.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Didn't the alternators from that era have a recall or something for sudden failure? You will get the brake/abs light in this case because it gets ground or something through the alternator field. OK - if you needed an oil change and you could choose between only Iffy Lube or PepBoys, which would you choose? Or just skip the oil change... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Like the others mentioned the problem is the alternator since those lights are part of the charging circuit. Along with replacing it you should also consider replacing the battery due to its age. It is good practice to replace those two things together. Clean up any corrosion on the battery connections and seal them with something. You then won't have to work on the charging system for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 use electrical grease to seal them FYI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 at 150,000 miles and a five year old battery i cant blame PB, as much as i would like too. Both are due for replacement. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daehttub2000 Posted May 13, 2007 Author Share Posted May 13, 2007 I replaced the alternator and all the warning lights are gone. I had no idea the alternator failure would also cause the brake lights to go on. I was surprised at how easy the alternator replacement was. With the labor money I saved I probably ought to buy a new battery:rolleyes: Thanks again for all your help! P.S. Both Autozone and PepBoys priced the alternator at $138. With Chicago tax it came out to $158. Ouch! That's with the old alternator exchange and a limited lifetime warranty. Looks like they use the same supplier. P.P.S. I'm noticing some differences between the Chilton and Haynes manuals. I'm finding that I like the Haynes pictures and more detailed instructions better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAezb Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 I replaced the alternator and all the warning lights are gone. I had no idea the alternator failure would also cause the brake lights to go on. I was surprised at how easy the alternator replacement was. With the labor money I saved I probably ought to buy a new battery:rolleyes: Thanks again for all your help! P.S. Both Autozone and PepBoys priced the alternator at $138. With Chicago tax it came out to $158. Ouch! That's with the old alternator exchange and a limited lifetime warranty. Looks like they use the same supplier. P.P.S. I'm noticing some differences between the Chilton and Haynes manuals. I'm finding that I like the Haynes pictures and more detailed instructions better. The brake circuit and ABS require a certain voltage level otherwise it trips the warning lamps. Not too bad a price on the alternator, though you could of given Jason a call (formerly of 1stSubaruparts.com) and got a Subaru rebuilt for around $70 + shipping + core exchange and 12mo/12K warranty - but you have the down time of waiting for it to arrive. Where we're all going to be saying "ouch" is at the gas pump, not to mention that replacement parts in general will become more expensive soon with the price of gas climbing...:-\ http://news.yahoo.com/photo/070510/480/e40d7495b8bf4846aaed7db81fd3db3b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 At least get the battery load tested. If the battery is weak it will put undue load on the alternator and possibly damage your recent investment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daehttub2000 Posted May 13, 2007 Author Share Posted May 13, 2007 At least get the battery load tested. If the battery is weak it will put undue load on the alternator and possibly damage your recent investment. Thanks for the tip. I'm getting a new battery today. I was thinking of the FRAM Oil filter commercial, "pay me now or pay me later..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daehttub2000 Posted May 14, 2007 Author Share Posted May 14, 2007 A final note on this little repair adventure: After the alternator and new battery, my corroded 12 year old negative cable finally called it quits (what timing!) so I had to replace it. I never imagined it would have been that much of a chore. Lots of electrical tape removal and replacement... I couldn't find a battery cable that had a complete ground wire and terminal connection so I had to cut the old Subaru ground and splice it to the flimsy 12-gauge female connector that came with the replacement cable. The cheesy little male connecters in the auto parts stores did not accommodate the huge 8(?) gauge Subie ground wire. I crimped the bare subie wire into the female connector and used a lot of electrical tape to seal it up. Is this a good idea or is this going to cause me problems down the road? Also, is the flimsy 12-gauge ground on the new battery cable too small for a Subie? What I don't understand is with such a massive ground wire, why are the Subie battery terminal connectors so thin and flimsy? At least the battery cable replacement has some major league terminal connectors. I used the felt protectors and the spray-on terminal cleaner and spray-on terminal protectors time (about $5). I don't what to go through that again.:-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPX Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 ABS and Battery lights together = charging system dying. Most likely alternator. Kind of a bizarre way to let you know, would be a Subaru if it WASN'T weird, eh? But thanks to this forum, within a few hours of posting about my dilemma, these guys helped me zero right into the alternator as the failed part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 I think you may be ok with the connection but it still may be best to get a better terminal so you can terminate the original wire properly. A good electronic of electrical parts store should have a better selection of larger wire terminals. A stereo install shop also may have a good selection since they deal with the power area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 ABS and Battery lights together = charging system dying. Most likely alternator. Kind of a bizarre way to let you know, would be a Subaru if it WASN'T weird, eh? But thanks to this forum, within a few hours of posting about my dilemma, these guys helped me zero right into the alternator as the failed part. Every Japanese car i ever had, the brake and battery light would cpome on when the ALT died. I think its just the way they decide to wire their cars. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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