Jibs Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Ok so I have 1 chance at this. I have the oppertunity to make a subaru Trailer out of a Brat shell. I remember talking to Monstaru about this at wcss8, and he mentioned cutting the Brat right in front of the support where the inside seats bolt to, like where your feet would be in the cab. That way, there would be room in front of the actual trailer for bins and stuff. Has ANYONE ever seen or thought of a subie trailer at all? How would this happen? I guess I could leave the whole rear assembly in and just make a hitch for it that attaches underneath somehow? What are your ideas? Suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jibs Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 After looking through the board and the net, it seems that a few people have started one, I haven't seen any pics of them though. It seems like people suggest that the cv's need to be removed for some reason? Why would that be? I wouldn't be using it to tow anything heavy, just a few hundred pounds max. Any info is appreciated by those who have tried it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieman Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Great IDEA! A Brat trailer.. hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 haven't tried it, but I have looked at the torsion bar set up of an EA81 and thought about it. I am not sure what you mean by removing the CV's but from what I saw, you can just remove the rear diff and related bits and pop out the axles and that should work. It would be like the rear setup for a FWD car. Enough typing.. .more zzz and BTW please tell me you are doing to a damaged, rusted out or otherwise BRAT. BW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jibs Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 Yeah why do you need to remove the diff and axles? Does it bnd while driving or something? I'm not quite sure in that respect. And yeah I'm doing this to a damaged, rusted, Brat....now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 Yeah why do you need to remove the diff and axles? Does it bnd while driving or something? I'm not quite sure in that respect. And yeah I'm doing this to a damaged, rusted, Brat....now. wouldn't have to, they'll just spin otherwise, won't hurt anyway. but it's some unnecessary drag, and weight, that's very easily removable. 5 bolts and 2 springpins to take the whole diff, mustache bar, and both axles out. unless you're planning on making the wheels driven although I don't know how you might go about making that work.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zefy Posted May 20, 2007 Share Posted May 20, 2007 plus with the rear diff and axles out you'll notice that on stock 13" wheels and tires you'll have more ground clearance on it than any other trailor on the road! my buddy has built 2 trailors using ea81 rear torsion bar suspension however not using the brat box... the first trailor is a snowmobile trailor that when unsprung has 2.5-3 feet of clearance under it... with the load on there it's dropped to about 1.5-2... the second is an full on car trailor specifically designed for carrying loyales and older soobs... on this one he uses 2 ea81 rear suspensions with the torsion bars clocked up... a little while ago a legacy was hauled with it... it kinda maxed out the suspension but it held up well! this trailor has to be 10 years old or something and it hasn't quite... tough torsion bar suspension!!! good luck with your build... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy D Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 this is gonna be cool.....you do have more than one chance to do it tho...i think you got about......10 chances? haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 wouldn't have to, they'll just spin otherwise, won't hurt anyway. but it's some unnecessary drag, and weight, that's very easily removable. 5 bolts and 2 springpins to take the whole diff, mustache bar, and both axles out. unless you're planning on making the wheels driven although I don't know how you might go about making that work.... like he said. Removing the stff wuld make it lighter. But making it a 6X6 would rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsoobdude Posted May 26, 2007 Share Posted May 26, 2007 plus with the rear diff and axles out you'll notice that on stock 13" wheels and tires you'll have more ground clearance on it than any other trailor on the road! my buddy has built 2 trailors using ea81 rear torsion bar suspension however not using the brat box... the first trailor is a snowmobile trailor that when unsprung has 2.5-3 feet of clearance under it... with the load on there it's dropped to about 1.5-2... the second is an full on car trailor specifically designed for carrying loyales and older soobs... on this one he uses 2 ea81 rear suspensions with the torsion bars clocked up... a little while ago a legacy was hauled with it... it kinda maxed out the suspension but it held up well! this trailor has to be 10 years old or something and it hasn't quite... tough torsion bar suspension!!! good luck with your build... Got any pics of these trailers, particularly the car trailer? I'm thinking about cutting up one of my wagons or another one or two I might be getting so I can haul my bike around w/o my Brat (it's going to be longer than I thought on it), and besides, it's noce to have a trailer to haul more than a bed full of goodies:grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urabus-84HBDR Posted May 26, 2007 Share Posted May 26, 2007 just a thought... if you made a trailer out of a soob, would you be pulling it with a soob? on that note think that the trailer would be tongue heavy? like the rear axle sits too far back? idk.... good luck and lets see some pics. Great IDEA! A Brat trailer.. hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsoobdude Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 So, I've been really thinking about this the last couple of days and hears what I've come up with plan wise for the body Trailer one (for my bike) will be cut somewhere in the middle of the front door, have the hatch butchered to fill in the "gap" above tail lights, use part of the roof for the front wall (or if I can, con my friend into letting me cut up his totalled Brat for the cab wall), leave the back doors operational for storage under the floor (with access also from the front). Trailer Two will be for hauling junk around and have basically the same mods MINUS the fact of being cut just infront of the B-pillars, extending the rear behind the wheels around 6 inches or so and hacking the hatch in half and welding closed. They both might recieve a 4 inch lift for more ground clearance (especially trailer one). Comparison shot What do ya'll think? If all goes well I've have my other 86 Wagon mid-June and cut up by mid-July:headbang: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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