ea 81 camber problem.

[Wicked_36]

I have a fairly drastic camber issue on my lifted 86 hatch. I read the control arm mod. I was wondering how others on the board have remedied this issue. Any know kits available?

 

Thanks,

Andrew

[86BRATMAN]

As far as I know there are no kits to fix this problem. You can modify the strut blocks to move the strut inward to fix it some, or do the control arm like Phizinza did. Either way just takes some time and work. Good luck, and keep us posted.

[Reveeen]

The AA guy was talking about extending the struts, from what I gathered it was cutting an old strut to fit over top of a new one (the bottom) with the appropriate spacer/block (length) inside, and clamping it (maybe with a motorcycle muffler clamp (or two), or exhaust band clamp). I kinda *think* that I am going to try this with mine. I'm *thinking* that this method should keep the camber somewhat close.

There was also talk of making/using cam bolts to mount the control arm? I have no idea if there is enough "meat" on the sub-frame/control arm to do this.

In days gone by, we used to lengthen the control arms on Minis (by welding) by 1/2" to give negative camber, so they could/would "handle".

[P K]

Are the front strut extensions in properly, that is, moving the strut tops closer to the engine? The extensions have ~28mm (more than an inch) offset, which should keep the camber near or at zero, and when installed correctly, frequently require inner fender hammering to clear.

 

If in backwards, your tires would definitely look like: \----/

 

r/ PK.

[Jerry DeMoss]

If in backwards, your tires would definitely look like: \----/

 

Exactly.I have the OZ/byb lift kit with rx springs up front on my '86 hatch and my camber has settled down quite a bit. I think that your strut blocks may be backwards as he said.Sadly enough I have seen what backwards lift blocks can look like on a fellow hatch.

[Wicked_36]

Nope, They are installed properly. I just got my toe in corrected and the camber doesn't look quite as bad. I'm sitting at 2.5* now. I would like to get closer to zero, but it is tolerable. thanks for the suggestions. If I notice significant tire wear, I'll move the studs on my shock towers.