Subaru_dude Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 ok, my main question is... when you turn the key to the "ON" position (not crank) you're supposed to hear the fuel pump right? i just did a reseal, and as far as I can tell the timing is good, electrical connections seem ok... but i sat in the car and turned the key and i don't hear the fuel pump until I turn it just a little bit further and i hear a clicking in the dash and the fuel pump "pulsates". but then i turn the key to start it and nothing happens. so, here's a list of what i've done so far... i pulled the coil wire off to see if it was sparking... it was. pulled the plug wires off one by one, all had spark. tried turning the disty all kinds of ways.. no go. so, it seems i'm not getting fuel. the fuel pump was good the last time the car ran 3 months ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Make sure you hooked up the ground wire tight....so the engine is cranking just not catching?? I am sure there is a way to test the fuel pump....also you checked fuses etc? I think I would double check for good connections to the fuel pump first...One good thing ..if it is bad it cake to replace... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted May 24, 2007 Author Share Posted May 24, 2007 yeah it's cranking.... but it won't run or even try to run. i checked all the fuses and grounds, they seem ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 at a junk yard the fuel pumps are cheap...I dont know if things have changed but when mine went in my 88 it was a dealer only and it was expensive..went to a JY and it was $20 took a whole 15 minutes to change out..just make sure its off of the same model ( IE if yours is turbo pull from turbo..due to different fuel pressures) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 SPFI? Check all the fuse and fusibles. Pull the intake boot off and crank it and see if it is spraying any fuel. Test the fuel pump also by plugging the green connectors toghether with key on/eng. off. The ECS light should blink and you should hear the fuel pump cycling in time with it. You could try putting the key in the on position, try to get it where you can here the fuel pump, then start it by touching a 12v lead to starter solenoid under the hood. If it starts then, it may be the ignition switch not sending power through in the *start* position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted May 24, 2007 Author Share Posted May 24, 2007 okay, i plugged the green connectors in and i could hear a clicking from the dash, and the fuel pump cycling. i unplugged the green connectors and got my friend to crank the engine while i looked down into the throttle body while cranking, there's no fuel spraying in at all. so what could be the problem? could all of the fuel in the lines have leaked out while the engine was out? i let the car sit there with the fuel pump cycling to give it plenty of time to get fuel to the intake, but to no avail so i'm assuming that's not my problem. double checked the fuses and grounds... all checked out ok. Thanks a million guys. oh yeah, what do i need to check fusible links? i haven't been able to check those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 The fuel filter may be clogged up so you should see if fuel is getting to there at least. You could also try spraying some starter fluid into the intake to see if that will get the engine to run. To check the fusible links all you need to due is make sure voltage is getting to both sides of the connections. They burn open in the middle if they blow out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 I will re iterate this point.. NOT all ECUs turn the fuel pump on before the key reaches "start." Mine never turns the fuel pump on without the car running, UNLESS the green connectors are plugged in. Everything appears stock, I have NO reason to doubt that it is. I just recently discovered that the brother from whom I obtained this car, got it from his mother-in-law, and SHE is a lady who takes care of her vehicles, usually through a dealership.... It sounds like yours doesn't really turn on until you hit start, either. I would agree with others, check the fuel supply a little further back.. replacing the fuel filter never hurts, and if you can brave the taste of a bit of gasoline, you SHOULD be able to blow freely back through the supply line, through the pump, and into the fuel tank without a GREAT deal of difficulty. I smoke too much, and I can do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted May 25, 2007 Author Share Posted May 25, 2007 I replace the filter for the hell of it... and checked to see if fuel was getting past the fuel filter by taking off the fuel line right at the injector. fuel is getting there... but not past the injector. so i guess my injector's severely clogged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 I replace the filter for the hell of it... and checked to see if fuel was getting past the fuel filter by taking off the fuel line right at the injector. fuel is getting there... but not past the injector. so i guess my injector's severely clogged. Either clogged or not getting signaled to open. Check the injectors circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted May 25, 2007 Author Share Posted May 25, 2007 I triple checked the wiring harness and all the grounds, pulled all the connections apart and thoroughly cleaned them with brake cleaner. what do i need to check and see if it's even getting any sort of electricity action? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 The resistance of the injector should be from .5 to 2 Ohms. Pull the connector off the injector and measure resitance across terminals of injector. Should be between .5- 2 ohms. If you get resistance out of those values for the injector replace the injector. Terminal 43 of the ECU is a Red w/White wire. This is the positive injector wire. Terminal 48 of ECU is a Red w/Black wire, this is the injector Negitive wire. Same colors as the wires at the injector. If the injector tested good then reconnect it. Disconnect ECU harness and measure resistance between Term 43 and 48 of the connector (not the ECU itself). Resistance should be between .5 and 2 Ohms.(your just measuring the injector through the whole wire to test the whole circuit end to end) If it measures good at injector but not at the ECU end there is a break in the circuit. Measure for continuity end to end between injector connector ECU term 43 and 48 respectively to find which wire is broken or unhooked. If that all tests good the hook up a voltmeter or better a test light to the injector connector. Pos injector wire to the test probe and neg wire to ground of the test light. Crank the engine and see if the light pulses. If not then you have no injector signal. Could be a bad connection at the ECU or a Bad ECU altogether Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted May 26, 2007 Author Share Posted May 26, 2007 ok 3 long 5 short beeps from the ecu. what is that?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill90Loyale Posted May 26, 2007 Share Posted May 26, 2007 ok 3 long 5 short beeps from the ecu. what is that?? Sounds like a 35.http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Have you checked your fusible links? If yes, then I'd start honing in on the air flow meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted May 26, 2007 Author Share Posted May 26, 2007 Checked injector, the power to it is fine. Checked power from distributor to spark plug wires and had nothing. Also replaced the Solenoid with a newer one and had no change. Even tried changing out the entire wiring harness for the intake and still nothing. same code... 3 long 5 short. thinking it's disty... the fusible links are ok. I guess it's time to start honing in on that air flow meter. oh yeah, AND the disty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Checked injector, the power to it is fine. Checked power from distributor to spark plug wires and had nothing. Also replaced the Solenoid with a newer one and had no change. Even tried changing out the entire wiring harness for the intake and still nothing. same code... 3 long 5 short. thinking it's disty... the fusible links are ok. I guess it's time to start honing in on that air flow meter. oh yeah, AND the disty. http://ch601.org/engines.htm find the ea82 FSM files. download them. love them. find your codes in them, and find out what they mean, AND find out how to test the associated wiring and componentry. Blind stabbing in the dark only helps people trying to do murder in a crowded subway train. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Code 35 is the Purge solenoid valve. It's a electrically operates vaccum switch that controls the venting of the charcoal can. That should not have anything to do with the no start, the distributor, and certainly not the Air flowmeter. You won't see voltage on the spark plug wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 I recommend you spray some starter fluid into the intake to see if that will make the engine fire. If it tries to run then you know you have a fuel problem. From the sounds of things after reading the previous posts it looks to me that the injector is not getting the ground signal needed to open the injector. You are getting power to the injector but the contact to ground, to complete the circuit, is made through the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted May 29, 2007 Author Share Posted May 29, 2007 I need to know how to set the timing. reading the USRM tells me that the driver side cam has to be pointing up and the passenger side pointing down, and then turn the crank 360 deg to find the 0 deg BTDC mark to install the distributor. a mechanic who has been working on subarus for over 20 years tells me that the driver side has to be pointing down with the passenger side pointing up and the flywheel lined up on the 3 marks to install the distributor. set as he told me, i'm not getting spark. Set as this board tells me, I get spark but the car still does not try to turn over at all. I'm getting fuel, i'm getting spark. The car should by ALL means run, yet it doesn't. I'm getting a code 35 but that shouldn't keep the car from running. The coil is putting out power, and depending on how i do the timing, the disty is putting out power. but it seems when it's putting out spark, the timing must be so badly off that the car doesn't even try to sputter. new spark plugs, new disty cap, new rotor button, new spark plug wires, new air filter, new fuel filter. Fuel+spark=does not run. <--- something here isn't right. I can't figure out what it is. Checked all grounds, they all check out fine. All fuses are good. Fusible links are good. Battery is putting out plenty of power, code 35 will not prevent it from running, and neither would the MAF sensor. If it was the MAF sensor, it would at least try to sputter or do something. WTF is wrong with this thing. It has a fresh reseal, so I'm thinking I did the timing wrong but no matter how the timing is done, it does not run AT ALL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 The problem does sound like it is a timing problem. Check the compression and if that is ok I would make sure the timing mark positions are ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=612709&postcount=16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 a mechanic who has been working on subarus for over 20 years tells me that the driver side has to be pointing down with the passenger side pointing up and the flywheel lined up on the 3 marks to install the distributor. He is confusing disty instal with the Timing belt instalation. Tming belt instalation is done with the 3 little marks. (was this done right? Crank lined up on center of 3 marks, the dot on pulley should point straight up(right) and straight down(left)) Inserting the disty, is done by lining up the crank on 0 TDC and pulleys as follows: The left side pulley mark should be at a 45 degree tilt up/out. The right side opposite(45 degrees down/out) Crankshaft at 0 TDC. But make sure you align the dot on the disty shaft with the notch in the shaft housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 as far as I can tell, everything's done correctly now. I'm getting spark, I'm getting fuel... the timing belts, to the BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE, are done the way that they are supposed to be done. I pulled the plugs and replaced them with a pair I had laying around (autolites, but they're a little newer than the ones in the car). I'm getting fuel, I'm getting spark. nothing is happening. I'm beginning to think either I'm getting NO compression, or the problem is right under my nose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 as far as I can tell, everything's done correctly now. I'm getting spark, I'm getting fuel... the timing belts, to the BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE, are done the way that they are supposed to be done. I pulled the plugs and replaced them with a pair I had laying around (autolites, but they're a little newer than the ones in the car). I'm getting fuel, I'm getting spark. nothing is happening. I'm beginning to think either I'm getting NO compression, or the problem is right under my nose. You're belts should look like this if they are correct. If they do then pull you're disty, aling the notche and dot, and then reinsert. The rotor should now point at #1 position of Cap(almost straight back) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 You're belts should look like this if they are correct. If they do then pull you're disty, aling the notche and dot, and then reinsert. The rotor should now point at #1 position of Cap(almost straight back) [ATTACH]4925[/ATTACH] wow, what the ************ is wrong with this thing. I'm seriously not getting what is wrong here. Spark+fuel=nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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