Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

another EA82 that won't start


Recommended Posts

Is the rotor fixed properly to the disty shaft? How are you verifying spark? I take it you're timing belts look like the diagrahm and the disty is in correct? Your last post was frustrated, but not clear wether you verified the belts.

 

Perhaps pull the plugs and verify the spark at the plug by grounding the plug. Use insulated pliers and rubber gloves to hold it, or get a proper spark plug tester.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

spark should be brilliant blue out of the plug. any other color is unacceptable.

 

and be careful, or you WILL get zapped pretty hard... but don't let that scare you. I am a wuss, I knew it was coming, but that was the only way I found out that my plugs were not the greatest... taking a shot or two of high volts, low amps from a spark plug showed me what I was missing for three months on my car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that smell from the exhaust apparently didn't mean it was getting fuel because it's not getting any. not even to the injector. it's getting past the filter, but what about the pressure regulator? is there anywhere else the flow could be restricted?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that smell from the exhaust apparently didn't mean it was getting fuel because it's not getting any. not even to the injector. it's getting past the filter, but what about the pressure regulator? is there anywhere else the flow could be restricted?

 

does the injector open? you can put a long screwdriver with the tip on the injector and listen at the handle when someone cranks (look out for spinning parts and long hair, been there done that, and it hurts :rolleyes:) it should CLICK noticeble

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure the Fuel pump is working? Check it for voltage at the pump connector while someone cranks the engine. If there is no voltage while cranking, but it works with teh test connectors plugged in then you may have an ECU issue, or perhaps an ignition switch issue. And are you sure that the fuel lines are not reversed? I mean did you possibly switch the inlet and return hoses?

 

Is this by chance an 89 2wd car with Automatic seatbelts? I noticed the other day that curiously, the 89 2wds with auto belts only, have a *rev sensor*. Basically a little relay that won't let the fuel pump run unless it senses an ignition pulse form the tach wire. Did you unhook any wires form the coil? could there maybe be one left to hook up, or perhaps it's on the pos not the Neg terminal? Does your tach move during cranking?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is working because if I unhook the line BEFORE the fuel pressure regulator and crank it, it spews out a thick consistent stream of fuel. So I haven't seen it necessary to check the fuel pump... maybe the pump is too weak and isn't getting the fuel past the pressure regulator? The fuel line that goes from the filter is supposed to go to the pressure regulator, correct?

 

No, it doesn't have automatic seatbelts. The only wire I unhooked from the coil was the one going to the disty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

No, it doesn't have automatic seatbelts. The only wire I unhooked from the coil was the one going to the disty.

 

Okay, but it would still be good to know excactly what year. 2wd or 4wd.

 

Someone else answer the fuel line ?? anyone got pics of an SPFI fuel pressure regulator? I'm not sure but I think on MPFI the regulator is after the injectors, It controls the return of fuel to the tank to control the pressure. I got mine backwards for a minute and it wouldn't start. I can look in the book for the SPFI setup at home but I'm at work now:(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since the starter fluid trick worked then it looks like the problem is either the fuel pump, fuel filter, or regulator. One other thing needs to be checked though and that is the injector. We never did a complete test on it except that you said it did make a click sound.

 

Place a voltmeter across the leads to the injector and see if there is 12 volts across the leads when you try cranking it. If that is ok and fuel is getting to the injector then it may be clogged up. You may be able to clean it out or just have to replace it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fuel supply line (from the filter) goes to the frontmost tube on the throttle body. The regulator is at the rear, and the line out of it is the return

 

That's based on info from this write-up. It's about SPFI conversion but in the middle it describes the function and location of the inlet and return lines, as well as the vent.

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI_doc.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

'89 FWD 5spd EA82 Sedan.

 

I guess I had my fuel lines crossed. Everybody that I've talked to said that the line coming from the filter should go into the pressure regulator. Freakin ametuers :rolleyes:

 

One last question. I took the cover for the injector off to see if anything was happening at my injector. The gasket there is destroyed, so where could I find it? I checked all the local parts stores and all the websites I could think of. Could I just make my own? If I can buy one I'd rather do that but if that's not possible then I could just make one.

 

Thanks a million guys and gals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I had my fuel lines crossed. Everybody that I've talked to said that the line coming from the filter should go into the pressure regulator. Freakin ametuers :rolleyes:

 

 

 

So did you get it running? Yeah definately the tube comes relatively straight out of the TB(front) is the inlet. The bent one coming out of the top of the FP reg(rear) is the return. If those where switched that would make it not run. Once you swap em right i'll bet it fires right up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok sow now the distributor is random. the mechanic guy was right but he for got to tell you that you have to continue past the 3 marks for the odeg mark(ign) he was talking about lining the disty right after installng the belt

 

now, if you go lining up the rotor its going to be a guess to tdc or bdc so here is what you do.

 

take off the passenger side timing belt cover. rotate the crank till you see the dot at about a 45 degree angle it will be lining up with the hard edge on the valve cover just above the word SUBARU

 

now your 0deg mark should be very close so go ahead and line that up

 

install the disty so the rotor is pointing directly at the hill holder or where the hill holder wuld be

 

that is the #1 position, rotor is counterclockwise 1342. #1 cylinder is the passenger side

 

but check to see if the rotor is turning with the motor when you crank it, because if it doesnt you have a broken timing belt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How do I reattach the 2 wires that go to the top of the injector? I'm trying to solder but it's not holding worth a crap. is there some kind of attachement I can buy that goes to the end of the 2 wires? or will I just need to find another injector?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just wrapped the wires around the "prods" and just tested to see if I'm getting fuel... plugged the green connectors in and turned the key on... sounded like something was spraying but no sign of gas... no smell, can't see any. I just thought I'd ask if it's still not getting fuel before I put it back together to find out it still won't start.

 

just air in the lines?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

plugged the green connectors in and turned the key on... sounded like something was spraying but no sign of gas... no smell, can't see any.

just air in the lines?

Plugging those in with the key on will only operate the pump and pressurize the line. No fuel will spray from the injector until the engine is cranked and the ECU sees the crank signal and triggers injector to pulse. Put it toghether and try.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At what point is fuel getting to now. Didn't you have a mixed up fuel line that got repositioned?

 

The injector wires should have a connector on them to attach the wires to the injector contacts. Did you pull them out of the connector?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, the injector wires got all messed up so i just peeled some rubber off them and wrapped the wires around the prods, crammed the rubber thing on top and all that's being held down by the aluminum cover.

 

so it started!! I don't know how long it's been since the engine ran, probably a couple years... but it sounds like a freakin diesel. My oil pressure was lower than expected... my other 200,000 mile pump was making 80 psi on cold startup, whereas this 100,000 mile pump is barely making 50 psi on cold startup. It's the same sending unit. i'm not really worried about that... just all the valve-train noise. I'm guessing the hydraulic lifters just need pumped up. This may be a bit drastic... but i'm gonna get everything together and drive it about 20 miles or so. If the noise doesn't stop it's for sale.

 

anybody interested in an EA82 wagon? it's posted in the for sale forum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

so it started!! I don't know how long it's been since the engine ran, probably a couple years... but it sounds like a freakin diesel. My oil pressure was lower than expected... my other 200,000 mile pump was making 80 psi on cold startup, whereas this 100,000 mile pump is barely making 50 psi on cold startup. It's the same sending unit. i'm not really worried about that... just all the valve-train noise. I'm guessing the hydraulic lifters just need pumped up. This may be a bit drastic... but i'm gonna get everything together and drive it about 20 miles or so. If the noise doesn't stop it's for sale.

 

I'd put about half a Quart of ATF in it. Then drive it for a day or two. Then change the oil.

 

It can take aquite a while before the valvetrain quiets down, but the ATF will help it drastically.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, it's time to celebrate. Got the timing adjusted, burned the last bit of coolant out of the exhaust... looked for any leaks after bleeding the coolant system, drove it a while, washed it, and it looks AND drives like NEW!!!!! :banana:

 

THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT'S OFF TOO!!!

 

It runs cool and quiet. :cool:

 

THE SOOB LIVES AGAIN!!! Thank you all for all the support and your patience. I know I can be a pain sometimes, thanks for bearing with me. :):clap::grin::burnout:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...