mykingcrab Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 Ive been driving ROXY fulltime lately and have grown to love her. Problem: Fluttering under normal conditions. runs good in general but sometimes under boost runs cleaner at times.,all plugs,wires,cap,rotor,fuel filter are new. Weve talked about this before and havent had a chance till now to fix it. Could it be the ACCEL coil? my friend says they are crap.Could it interfear with the igniter? It was suggested to clean plugs/connectors on the thermosensors, h.a.c (altitude sensor),ect. did I miss anything? Also I was thinking maybe vacuum leaks? What is the best method for both? Are there any chemical cleaners that work? And also whats the best method to find vacuum leaks? Thanks again:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 if the fluttering is in the same "spot" every time, you may also be looking at wear in the throttle body somewhere, usually in the shaft or something. Just a thought to compliate your efforts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 vacuum leaks are best found with a can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner fitted with a little spray tube and just spray around potential targets..Intake gaskets, throttle body, and vacuum lines that look suspisious. If your idle picks up u found a leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted May 28, 2007 Author Share Posted May 28, 2007 if the fluttering is in the same "spot" every time, you may also be looking at wear in the throttle body somewhere, usually in the shaft or something. Just a thought to compliate your efforts It flutters thru out the entire throttle range.. it has NEVER NOT fluttered Its less noticable when its floored. and it seems to run strong(for what it is) and boost 7lbs everytime. a fewtimes it seems more cleaner and more powerfull. ANOTHER THing I didnt mention Is THat the TURBO light on the dash never works consistantly. IS that the same problem (corrodded plugs). also the motor is 87 controlls are 85.flapper MAF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted May 28, 2007 Author Share Posted May 28, 2007 vacuum leaks are best found with a can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner fitted with a little spray tube and just spray around potential targets..Intake gaskets, throttle body, and vacuum lines that look suspisious. If your idle picks up u found a leak. Great, easy enough.Thnx:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 check the coolant temp sensor on the back side of the intake manifold, mainly, check the wires to make sure corrosion hasnt set in, then get some crc maf cleaner, clean the maf, also make sure that you dont have any exhaust leaks or intake leaks.ive had issues like that due to a hose on the intake coming loose but it wouldnt leak until it reached boost, then the car would stumble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 one over looked item is to check that the dip stick has a good seal on it when pushed into the tube..I had a few vacuum leaks and repaired them, but the dip stick leak baffled me for months..after a good cleaning everywhere with the crc all worked well..concerning your coil...you can read the recent posting just before yours called, "coil problems...what is going on" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 there's a big problem right there. You need all that stuff to match. The ECU, engine wiring & sensors, and MAF all need to be from the same general year. if it's supposed to have a hotwire MAF, get one and it will probably help a LOT. also the motor is 87 controlls are 85.flapper MAF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 there's a big problem right there. You need all that stuff to match. The ECU, engine wiring & sensors, and MAF all need to be from the same general year. if it's supposed to have a hotwire MAF, get one and it will probably help a LOT. I think he just meant it's an 87 longblock. I think his ECU, MAF TPS all match and are 85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 Throttle positioning sensor may need adjusting, i had a TON of AWFUL problems with dead spots, fluttering, and hesitation just from that stupid thing needing adjusting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 I think he just meant it's an 87 longblock. I think his ECU, MAF TPS all match and are 85 exactly right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 My 86 had an issue where it would have a kind of a stalling then surging feeling to the acceleration. Very minimal and only at full boost, hard pulls. In any gear but between 2000 and 3700 rpms. Like clockwork, at 3700 rpms the power would come on full force. I though it was characteristic of these early turbos because the TPS is not a potentiometer type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 this all seems to be helpfull. On the temp sensor, how does it directly alter performance? where /what is it signaling. what changes? Also,THAT EXCEL COIL IS OUT A THERE AS SOON AS I GET HOME!!!!!!!!!! I didnt put it in there,it was on there,eitherway its history..... I have an 85 gl10 turbo wagon for parts in the back yard. Although its converted to a carb engine im sure that the stock coil is the one thats there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 the temp sensor sends info tothe ecu about how hot th engine is running, thus determining whether it needs more or less fuel. when it thinks the engine is cold, its trying to get it up to temp and i think just runs off of a preset fuel map, or something like that. someone correct me if i screwed that up. this all seems to be helpfull. On the temp sensor, how does it directly alter performance? where /what is it signaling. what changes? Also,THAT EXCEL COIL IS OUT A THERE AS SOON AS I GET HOME!!!!!!!!!! I didnt put it in there,it was on there,eitherway its history..... I have an 85 gl10 turbo wagon for parts in the back yard. Although its converted to a carb engine im sure that the stock coil is the one thats there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingbobdole Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Thats true but typically a corroded CTS will cause a no start issue... I'm more in the ignition department. When you ditch the coil(I run an accel BTW) also check the capacitor on the negative lead. If it is the roundy can type, you might also see if you can find the little boxy type(very technical) Some times the little can types can go out causing a bad ground or poor coil charging.... the boxy type is a better design.... As far as your boost light, thats controlled by one of the two coney shaped thingys bolted to the PS strut tower... ok, time for sleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted June 1, 2007 Author Share Posted June 1, 2007 Thats true but typically a corroded CTS will cause a no start issue... I'm more in the ignition department. When you ditch the coil(I run an accel BTW) also check the capacitor on the negative lead. If it is the roundy can type, you might also see if you can find the little boxy type(very technical) Some times the little can types can go out causing a bad ground or poor coil charging.... the boxy type is a better design.... As far as your boost light, thats controlled by one of the two coney shaped thingys bolted to the PS strut tower... ok, time for sleep. Very good:cool: ill be trying to fix this problem tomorrow,will definatly keep everyone posted when i find the culperate:burnout: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keppelk Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Very good:cool: ill be trying to fix this problem tomorrow,will definatly keep everyone posted when i find the culperate:burnout: Any progress mykingcrab? Tomorrow was a long time ago j/k. I've had a similar problem with my '86 Vortex (XT) Turbo. One of the lines to the pressure sensors (2 sensors on the strut tower hooked up to one vac line off inlet manifold) was kinda stiff and crusty so didn't seal well to the inlet manifold barb. Also been reading that dead/dying coils can cause this kinda problem.......... nothings ever easy........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Thats true but typically a corroded CTS will cause a no start issue... My experience is limited to 87+, but I have changed out or cleaned up a dozen CTS over the past 6-7 years. Replaced a few completely failed ones. Never had one cause a no start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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