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Exhaust Q.


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I need to replace my exhaust gaskets on bottom of motor/ exhaustmanifold and one side is cross threaded or just seized up and are probly going to brek off . Can i use the other set of holes ajasent to those they look the sam distance across?:cornfuzz:

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yo yo yo what it is muther fyorkers? On my four door it has an aftermarket exhaust on it with spinnable flanges on it. if the one bolts break off or stip out you can use the other holes they have same threads, and depth as the stock holes that are stripped, broke, etc. so to answer you q yes you can use other holes. good luck with your soob.

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The holes are the same distance and size. But only if you are using an exhaust that has been custom made with loose flanges. They won't work for the stock Y-pipe because the flanges are fixed.

 

If it breaks you can drill out the bolt and use a heli-coil kit.

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if recall i have seen studs opposite, at least on zanny dook's wagon the stud is on the other hole, and the pipe has a notch ground in the flange to fit around the stud. the pipe is right, as it fits on my wagon

it must be an odd stud, or it must be a same-side head as the other head, its the only one i have seen like that, it was that way when we got it

 

the turbo cross-pipe has the studs opposite that of a regular pipe

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If the flanges are welded or fixed on the exhaust pipe then chances are it's stock. If you check the y-pipe and see that it loks to be pieced together it has probably been replaced. That was the way most exhaust shops reattached the catalytic converters.

 

Miles, yes, the other holes do get used by the adapter for the ASV and the turbo cross over pipe. They are not used by the stock y-pipe.

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Where i got my exhaust done he just took out my cat for me.Shhhhhh but ill just use some (ALOT) of super-penatrate before hand and hope for no breakage and if so it will only set me back .5 hour to drill and heli-coil. but if you guys have any other ideas feel free to share.:D

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if the nut turns, but wants to hang up, work it back and forth, back on a thread or two, off a 3 threads, on 2, off 3, will help take the rust off the thread.

 

usually the nut will turn so far befare it catches all the rust and begins to take the stud with it.

 

if the studs DO come out, get new ones. to install them, thread 2 nuts on the END, lock them together. then use the nut farthest on the end with a wrench to turn the stud in. then use 2 wrenches to unlock the nuts,and then proceed to install the gasket and pipe.

 

the thread locker will prevent the stud from coming out the next time, and the anti-seize will let the nut come off before it wants to take the stud with it.

 

but sometimes a rusty stud will take the aluinum thread wit it, tearing it out as it goes. if you see aluminum on the stud if it comes out, re-tap it with 7/16 and use 7/16 stud, or helicoil it like qman said

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the card in the window has landed us a few soobs. also we have recruits that keep an eye out for them

 

a lot of times people who are driving them are driving them just because its a car, and could care less that its a subaru.

 

maybe it would be wise to find cheap cars and fix them up, and just trade them even up for soobs.

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