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here's the pics of the rust on my CA car...


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I havnt had to repair rust considering my Roo has only one little smidged of rust on the rear, and its getting sanded soon... But the first Picture looks Alittle rough, that one seems like its going to take some kemo and bit of rehab, but with a welder, and some sanding pads and a whole lot of elbogrease, I think it can be done ( I am currently repairing my dads little pickup bed trailer, and after I sanded it, someone mooved the tarp off of it and it got rained on... that sucks)

The rest of the pictures look decent, sandem soon though and cover them with some protection so they dont get worse!!!

She looks nice!

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OMG thats not rust!! I could have that all fixed and repainted in a weekend...geesh...I wish I had a before pic of Buckys rear quarters and trunk area. I have plenty of Rocky though...bring that sweet little 3 door out here to CT and I will fix it and show you how to do it yourself.

 

I am serious about telling you how to fix it ...just takes some patience..If I can do it ( and dont make me say it..and I am a girl) you can do it... Also get the paint code from the car..it should be on a tag under the hood or in a door and someone should be able to mix the color...just remember that age has faded your current paint

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Yeah, Places can mix the paint from the color code for you... Actually I believe there is a website that I was going to order some paint for my dads trailer, I'm going to paint it the Toyota White... Sorry but I cant seem to find it...

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Ho ho ho, carnage indeed. You see your first picture? On my old 3-door, you had a full view of the ground up to the tipi top of your rust line. You could reach up through the rocker an touch where the metal came toghether for the rear 1/4 windows. THAT ISN"T RUST

 

What I do is start with a blunt flathead screwdriver. Poke the rust on the outside. Poke it till it isn't there anymore, then use a wire wheel around the hole to clean down to bare metal. Weld a patch over it, primer it and paint it. (bondo if your obsessive)

 

For the inside, the easist would be a sandblaster, then some good paint, like POR-15.

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fiberglass is an option, but you want to make DARN sure you remove ALL traces of rust, and treat exposed metal with something like the por15 before glassing - trust me on this one! you dont want it to continue rusting underneath the fiberglass.

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Having good metal is the best way to go. I had a big rust hole in my drivers side floor board on my 84 Brat when I got it. I got a good piece of metal from a 84 wagon donor car. I cut out the cancer and welded the good metal in. It took me about 2 hours to get it exactly the way I wanted it but it was worth it. Sheet metal on cars is tough to weld if you do not have a lot of experience welding. It is just so thin! Now I just have to fix the battery box area and some spots around the exhaust tip and I am all set. Find a donor car and cut out the metal you need. It should help cut down on labor costs at a body shop if you do not want to try fixing it yourself. Hope that helps.:)

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if you pay someone have them do the paint.

 

non structural rust like on the trunk you could cut grind or sand off the rusty edged and pop rivet in a piece of sheetmetal or aluminum, its easy to cut and bend and rivets only require a drill and a rivet tool. rivets will hold the same as spot welds

 

you can use a silicone adhesive between the panels so long as you dont make a mess or it will interfere with painting.

 

ihad to make rocker panels on my camper and used a bench vise and a ball peene hammer to shape sheet aluminum.

 

i used materials for repairing u-haul trucks since that are more or less built out of rivets.

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Ask

small004.jpg

and you shall

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RECEIVE!!!

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Standard disclaimer: the undercarriage does NOT match all this crap; some areas around the front and rear windshield, the door jamb areas have a little spotting (two or three spots) and the trunk rust-out from the holes are really the extent of the damage. I don't have many problems with stuck bolts on this car, either.

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Standard disclaimer: the undercarriage does NOT match all this crap; some areas around the front and rear windshield, the door jamb areas have a little spotting (two or three spots) and the trunk rust-out from the holes are really the extent of the damage. I don't have many problems with stuck bolts on this car, either.

 

That makes it a standard Florida car, then- rotted to death wherever the rain washes the salt to.

When a jack goes through your floor, or you can take half your rocker off by hand without any force, or when you scrape a curb and then can't open and close the doors right, let me know.

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That makes it a standard Florida car, then- rotted to death wherever the rain washes the salt to.

When a jack goes through your floor, or you can take half your rocker off by hand without any force, or when you scrape a curb and then can't open and close the doors right, let me know.

 

you are thinking of my Z car: the car that, when jacked up, is NOTICABLY easier to actually shut the doors lightly :rolleyes: I actually dropped a four cell mag lite out the hole in the floorboard of that thing once :eek:

 

The lower frame on the soobie is solid as a rock. I probably have poor chassis flex problems when it comes to cornering, etc... but I dont have $$ for tires that would take any real "handling;" nor do I have a five speed. so no go on actually driving it like its an automobile... No, she is just my go kart transportation machine, and I love her for it.

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i had said for a California car, as there isnt much rust around these parts. i didnt know i was going to spark up a big thing about who's rust is worse here. whats with everyone here doing that anyway?

 

*sigh* if it werent for my 3 day owned infiniti j30 engine death via snapped timing belt, the subaru would be gone.

 

Anyone want a 3AT nonturbo coupe? Get me a rebuildable VG30DE and its yours indefinately. Hell, I'll even drive it to you.

 

 

What happened to "I plan on keeping it a long time and making it cherry"???

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