Tim sanderson Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Hello, New guy here. I searched and read some pages. I had a couple questions. I did a reseal job on a 93 ea82. Cam seals,oil pump seals,water pump, rear main seal, timing belts. I am fairly certain I did the timing belts correctly. I am concerned about the crankshaft though. When I pulled off the flexplate to replace the rear main seal I did make alignment marks but I wanted to see if there is a way to screw that up. Where should the key way for the timing sprockets be when the three lines on the flex plate align? Also, the label on the hood says that I need to connect the green test mode connectors but I cannot find the darn things. Where are they on a 93 loyale? Lastly, When I got her back together it did start roughly but died. I was trying to get a timing light on it. Now it won't start at all. Oh boy, I could use some help. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Hi tim. Welcome to the board. Greast to have more Wisco members. As far as the flexplate, the holes on it are not all evenly spaced. This is intentional so that it's all but impossible to get it installed wrong. It will only fit one way so you should be good. Did you rotate the engine once in between installing the left and right belts? Do they look like this when lined up on TDC? Sorry, this pic is too small. go to this thread and you can see it a bit bigger. On page 3, click on the pic to see it bigger. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75394&page=3 The green test connectors are under the hood, near the fuel filter and the windshield wiper motor. Behind left side strut top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Welcome to the forum here Tim. We should be able to help you out. You might try a little starter fluid in the intake to see if that will help get it going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim sanderson Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 Thanks for the replies and the nice welcome. As it turns out, I had everything correct. I was messing around with it this morning and I checked the belts and the marks. Then I pulled the cap off the distributor and checked the rotor. All good. So then I decided to pull the distributor to double check the gear alignment. When I tipped the thing over I got about a 1/4 cup of water dumped out at me. It had been raining on and off all weekend here and I must have left the cap off at the wrong time and things got dowsed. I took it apart a bit on the top side and blew it out with compressed air. Then I reinstalled it and turned the key. It started right up. Now I have to check out why the cel is on. How do you pull codes on this thing? Guess I need to search some more. Is there a test mode plug on this car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Under your steering column is your ECU..plug the test connectors in under the hood...( another board member will tell you which ones cause I get confused when not under the hood of mine) turn the key to start but dont start the car and it will flash you the codes....we also have somewhere on this board what the codes are..not too much help cause I am at work...but Welcome to the board!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Here are some instructions that Gloyale posted on another thread you can use. You need to see if it has trouble codes. The ECU is under steering column. It has a small hole in front with a light in it. Turn the key on and look at the light. If it blinks a steady 1-4 blinks, you have no active codes. You may have stored codes that can be output by connecting the single pole black connectors under the ECU. If it blinks a series of long an short flashes those are a trouble code/codes. Long flash is the first number, short flashes are the second. I.E: 2 long, 3 short= code 23. see if you get any codes and then come back and tell us what they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Here are some instructions that Gloyale posted on another thread you can use. You need to see if it has trouble codes. The ECU is under steering column. It has a small hole in front with a light in it. Turn the key on and look at the light. If it blinks a steady 1-4 blinks, you have no active codes. You may have stored codes that can be output by connecting the single pole black connectors under the ECU. If it blinks a series of long an short flashes those are a trouble code/codes. Long flash is the first number, short flashes are the second. I.E: 2 long, 3 short= code 23. see if you get any codes and then come back and tell us what they are. This is right except with an SPFI you'll get 5-8 short flashes if there is no problem( this is the model designator) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim sanderson Posted June 5, 2007 Author Share Posted June 5, 2007 This is right except with an SPFI you'll get 5-8 short flashes if there is no problem( this is the model designator) I got seven short flashes. ANything? The cel comes on after a short drive. Will it blink while th car is running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 I got seven short flashes. ANything? The cel comes on after a short drive. Will it blink while th car is running? Those green connectors should be disconnected for driving. If they are connected the car is in a diagnostic mode. If it is blinking then everything is fine. Disconnect them for normal driving. 7 flashes is the model indication designator. You must have a SPFI, Auto trans, 49 state car. These are the designations 1-4 are for MPFI: 1 = MT, 49 state 2= MT, Cali 3= AT, 49 state 4= AT,Cali 5-8 means SPFI: 5 = MT, 49 state 6 =MT, Cali 7 =AT, 49 state 8 =AT,Cali If there are trouble codes then you won't get the designator. The fact that it shows the designator code means there are no active trouble codes Tim, You are very close to me I think. If you ever need any face to face advice, help, or a look at the Factory service manual let me know. Fredonia is a short drive from Kenosha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim sanderson Posted June 6, 2007 Author Share Posted June 6, 2007 Those green connectors should be disconnected for driving. If they are connected the car is in a diagnostic mode. If it is blinking then everything is fine. Disconnect them for normal driving. 7 flashes is the model indication designator. You must have a SPFI, Auto trans, 49 state car. These are the designations 1-4 are for MPFI: 1 = MT, 49 state 2= MT, Cali 3= AT, 49 state 4= AT,Cali 5-8 means SPFI: 5 = MT, 49 state 6 =MT, Cali 7 =AT, 49 state 8 =AT,Cali If there are trouble codes then you won't get the designator. The fact that it shows the designator code means there are no active trouble codes Tim, You are very close to me I think. If you ever need any face to face advice, help, or a look at the Factory service manual let me know. Fredonia is a short drive from Kenosha Thanks. The test connector. IT's under the dash correct? Is it the only green connector down there? This is actually not my car. It was brought to me as-is just puking out oil from every possible orifice. You should see the cross member:eek: Let's just say that's not rusting anytime soon. Where should I look for electrical issue troubleshooting? Having trouble with the driver switches controlling the other windows. And the radio does'nt seem to be working. The car is being picked up Friday. Thanks again gloyale. And I will extend the same invitation to you. Kenosha is a solid hour and a half from me. Have I seen you on nasioc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 Thanks. The test connector. IT's under the dash correct? Is it the only green connector down there? This is actually not my car. It was brought to me as-is just puking out oil from every possible orifice. You should see the cross member:eek: Let's just say that's not rusting anytime soon. Where should I look for electrical issue troubleshooting? Having trouble with the driver switches controlling the other windows. And the radio does'nt seem to be working. The car is being picked up Friday. Thanks again gloyale. And I will extend the same invitation to you. Kenosha is a solid hour and a half from me. Have I seen you on nasioc? Test connectors are under the hood, in engine bay for your're car(SPFI). On Turbo(MPFI) models they are under dash along with the Black read connector. It is a green connector actually, not a green wire. The wire may actuially be Blk/red or some other but the connectors are bright green, right behind the drivers strut. It's actually a 2 pin connector but only one is used. The Power Window unit is under the passenger seat carpet. There is a main power supply wire that has a junction. One of those one wire stripped of insulation with 3 or 4 crimped wires crimped to it types. It's in a bad spot right under the passengers feet, under carpet and get's corroded as heck. If you're ambitious take out the seat and fish that wire out of the carpet. There is a Circuit breaker on the control unit bracket too you could check, but I doubt it's bad. I had Fredonia confused with Caledonia, which would be much closer. But hey I'd love an excuse to come up north. Perhaps sometime soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim sanderson Posted June 6, 2007 Author Share Posted June 6, 2007 I pulled the code. It was three long and four short. So that's 34 correct? What is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 I pulled the code. It was three long and four short. So that's 34 correct? What is that? EGR solenoid. It's the little box mounted to the manifold with vacuum line going to EGR. It's just a valve that's opened or closed to control operation of the EGR. Basically once the car is warmed up the valve is opened to let vacuum flow to the EGR valve. It won't really affect anything driving wise, maybe cold engine acceleration could get rough if it's stuck open. But it's likely the electric coil that actuates the valve is broken, and the valve is stuck closed. But if you want to fix the code the solenoid can be relplaced with a solenoid from almost any import. Some look different but function the same. The connectors just have to be switched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 Tim in the USRM linked to at the top of this page you may find some other info that helps Here is the code chart for your car from the manual You will see the EGR code -> which means the windings on the ERG solenoid are open - very very very common problem. Many of us have substituted a Honda or Toyota solenoid for the defective part. -- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 61 Parking Switch or Circuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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