94 loyale over heating at 60 mph

[GeneralDisorder]

With 90 HP, EA82 cars ARE slow by todays standards. C'mon, we all know it. Espescially in there bone stock versions, with all there emmisions stuff and no weber. There not as bad as say, a volkswagon Bus or a Yugo. But they are not nearly as powerful as newer cars. It's sad to say, but I used to get beat by minivans and Corrollas all the time. I could take them till about 25-30 mph, but after that, the free breathing, 21st century engines are faster. Espescially at highway speeds. The EA82 will get up to 85-90 mph, but it tkaes a while and hills will bog it down.

 

Agreed.

 

But the OP says he has a 4WD 5 speed, not an Auto. The autos are slow, but my 4WD 5 speed sedan can move without any difficulty. 90 HP isn't a lot, but you also have to know where the engine makes power - that's in the 3500 - 4500 range.

 

GD

[dude_4_sale]

lol so my friend with the 86 gl auto and i went to the beach today and on the way the motor started pinging and knocking really bad. heat when up water and oil went down.. let me guess head gasket right?

[GeneralDisorder]

lol so my friend with the 86 gl auto and i went to the beach today and on the way the motor started pinging and knocking really bad. heat when up water and oil went down.. let me guess head gasket right?

 

Maybe. I have yet to own an EA82 that didn't need HG's either when I aquired it or shortly after. 175k to 225k depending on driving habits seems to be the lifespan of the OEM gaskets. By that time they generally need oil passage o-rings, and new oil pumps/gaskets anyway. Not to mention valve covers resealed and the pan gasket replaced.

 

Fortunately HG's take about a day to do if you don't pull the engine. Maybe 2 days if you have to have the heads milled flat. They usually don't crack heads unless it's a turbo model. My current sedan blew the HG's (slightly) at 220k, and after replacement with Fel-Pro's it's now got 237k and never goes above 1/3 on the temp gauge except in hot (90+) weather with the AC on high.

 

GD

[dude_4_sale]

do u have to pull the motor to get to the heads? someone said no that u can do it by removing stuff in the tire well. what all do u have to remove? and is it easier that way? i know its a HG cuz #3 piston has water in it and all over the spark plug.

[TomRhere]

Yes, the HG's can be done with engine in car. I prefer to pull engine myself, just because I do all seals and gaskets at the same time. Easier to see that you've gotten all old gasket material off of the surfaces. Besides, you're only 6 more bolts/nuts away from pulling engine anyways.

 

As to how to do it with engine in car, I'll defer the answer to that to ones that have done it that way.

[Gloyale]

I can't think of anything in the tirewell that needs to be removed. It's really straight forward. First I usually pull the radiator. Then I unbolt the alternator, A/C compressor and Power steering pump. You have to take the pulley off the PS pump to get it off it's mount. Stick a socket through one of the holes in the PS pump pulley onto the bolt heads behind it, that way the pump won't spin and use a 19mm wrench to take the nut off the pulley. Once you've unbolted the pump, get the 2 10mm bolts holing the lines to the front and side of the motor. Now you can fold the pump and lines up into the spare tire area without disconnecting it. Same with the AC compressor.

 

Now it's time to remove the Intake. 3 bolts hold it to the heads on each side. These are often the toughest bolts, Use some PB blaster or other oil to loosen them. I'd soak them for a day or two first. There is also an EGR tube coming out of the top of Pass side head. Unbolt it's flange form the Intake. Now the intake can be lifted off. Don't froget to remove and cap the Gas line and label the few Vac lines you have ot unplug.(most of them can stay in place on the intake). Remove the distributor.

 

Now you should be looking at the bare longblock. First remove the valve covers. A 10mm wratcheting wrench is your best friend for this task. It's a tight fit between the frame rails, espescially for the 5th/rear bolt of the drivers side cover. Now remove the timing belt covers, and the timing belts. Remove the rear cover pieces as well as they need to come out to seperate the Camcase/head/block. The Cam pulleys have to come off to get at the cover bolts. There is a flat spot in the middle of the now exposed camshafts. Use a wrench on those flats to keep the cam from spinning while you remove the 3 pulley bolts.

 

From here it's all self evident. Eight 12mm bolts hold the cam cases on. Be careful, when you remove the Cam case the rockers will fall off. If you're very dexterous you can hold them with fingers. I ussually hold at least the middle 2 and I put cardboard down so if others fall they don't get nicked on concrete(or dirty in gravel, depending on where you're working)

 

Now you're ready for the heads. Make sure you've unbolted the exhsaust first. Then it's nine 17mm bolts to get the heads off.

 

Assembly is reverse with a few notes:

 

There is a small o-ring between the head and the Cam case. A new one MUST be installed during reassembly. The Cam Case just gets a bead of RTV (grey) to seal it, but, DO NOT use any RTV sealant on the O-ring, a small dab of engine assembly grease will keep it in place for installation if nesscesary.

 

Use engine assembly grease to hold the rockers to the HLAs for install. To make reinstalling the Cams cases eaiser, rotate the motor till it's lined up on the 3 little marks. Before installing rotate the Cam so the locator dowel is straight up. This will place the Cam at a position where none of the lobes are pushing on a rockers as you bolt it down.

 

If the spacer/washer pieces from the rear cam case portions get lost or are broken, heres a trick. Use the old grommets from the valve cover bolts as a replacement. This is assuming you bought new valve cover gaskets/grommets.

[dude_4_sale]

wow thanx for the great info.. i will let u know how it goes

[dude_4_sale]

anyone do a lift kit on a loyale or similar with pics? i have access to all the hardware and supplies to remake the parts rather than pay $450. i just need pics.

 

thanx