Bucky92 Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 For Bucky:confused: I changed out his plugs last night and reved him up to see if he still had his little miss and heard something I didnt like...in neutral at around 3300 RMP I am hearing what sounds like an internal rattle..I am hoping its just my toasted throw out bearing but sounded more like bottom end. I will try to get a video with sound ..but it has me scared that my boy is getting tired...maybe EJ22 swap? OH! is it better to use OEM cap rotor and plug wires and if so who wants to order me some since my local dealer wont waste their time....I had a plug wire fall apart yesterday ( cheap Auto Zone crap)...got it back together but its time for new anyway. I am hopiing its just something simple..the noise...may pull the timing belt covers this weekend and see if something is loose there. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subeman90 Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 are you sure the plugs are in tight enough???? I had a loose plug in a legacy once that made it sound like bottem end noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhise Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 I had an old Opel GT that developed a rod knock. I would think if the noise was coming from the bottom end, you'd hear it loud and clear especially at idle on a cold start!...think TOD, but deeper more solid sounding... Rattling noises could be pulleys, tensioners, etc. -Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 I changed out his plugs last night and reved him up to see if he still had his little miss and heard something I didnt like...in neutral at around 3300 RMP I am hearing what sounds like an internal rattle. Could it be one of the shields on the exhaust? 3000 rpm is right around the spot where the exhaust developes a Harmonic and starts to vibrate. I went to look at a Loyale for sale once. 300 dollars. It was mint. The price was so cheap because some Mechanic(Malcoms in Corvallis OR, don't ever ever ever go there) told her that the transmission was shot and the engine lwas not far behind. (meanwhile he missed the leaky water pump) Anyway I advised her of it's true condition. After resealing the oil pump and putting a clamp on a piece of the exhaust shield that was rattling she decided to keep it. I did T-belts, Cam seals, Front seal and the water pump too. It only had 115,000 miles and she was ready to basically junk it becasue of an exhaust rattle at 3000 RPMs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted June 6, 2007 Author Share Posted June 6, 2007 I have to rule out exhaust..since the heat sheilds were ripped off years ago:) .. and the plugs are tight ( hand tight then 1 1/2 twist with the wrench snug but not cranked down) I am leaning toward a tensioner or a bearing in the front...thats where the sound is coming from..front left side. changed the timing belts a year and a half ago but not the tensioners.. I have also been told I have one of the quietest EA82s at idle ..my one friend owned 4 of them....the noise just sounded deeper in the motor then at the timing belt area...its just move orer protectiveness of my Loyale probably.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 does it leak oil at the oil pump? maybe it's aireating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 rod knock is more aparent at idle then anyplace else. You have a vibration noise of some kind. To test for rod knock, at idle remove one plug wire at a time and see if the suspected noise changes. i'm voting for a heat sheild. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted June 6, 2007 Author Share Posted June 6, 2007 rod knock is more aparent at idle then anyplace else. You have a vibration noise of some kind. To test for rod knock, at idle remove one plug wire at a time and see if the suspected noise changes. i'm voting for a heat sheild. nipper heat sheilds are gone yanked years ago. I know rod knock...I was thinking bearing self destructing in one of the tensioners. you know how wierd sometimes these sounds seem to travel.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 one word. Water. If your timing belt covers are off, if you wet the tensioners the noise should change. Actually do this to any idler for any belt. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 connie, i think you'll find your problem under that timing cover. let us know. i'm assuming this isn't it since you said "front of the engine". if the spark plug isn't seated fully into the distributor cap, you can hear the spark, it will sound. very mechanical..tack, tack, tack.. just throwing that out there since you had spark plug wire problems, if they "fell apart" close to the cap, make sure the cap isn't melted, warped or ruined. order magnecor spark plug wires and you'll never replace them again. excellent, excellent product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 Also, make sure it's not your water pump. No kidding, my water pump on my Legacy went out at 118k, and it sounded so much like rod knock it scared me ************less. I had several mediocre mechanics look at it and also agree that's what it was, but a really good mechanic told me it was the water pump. The bearing in the water pump usually squeals when it starts going bad, but every once in a while, they'll come apart and the shaft will start moving around. That's what happened in my case. The vane in the water pump was actually hitting the water pump body when it was shifting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 plus a subaru rod knock does not sound normal its very quet but deep untill it gives it's 20 second notice and then it comes flying out, making a huge mess of things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 plus a subaru rod knock does not sound normal its very quet but deep untill it gives it's 20 second notice and then it comes flying out, making a huge mess of things and it comes and goes.... nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 Hi Connie, Something no one has mentioned but alluded to, that has happened to several of my EA82s. This may be related. The T belt for the drivers side wanted it's tension adjusted. (did you know they can to be re-tensioned? Without removing the covers? There are holes with plugs in the covers - I take the covers off for this op though) The resulting slop allowed the distributor drive shaft to make a strange noise. (it's driven off the rear of the driver's side cam) I thought it was deep internal as the vibration was transmitted through the cam tower into ??? Here is hoping for a loose timing belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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