q240z Posted June 12, 2007 Author Share Posted June 12, 2007 Kewl. Thanks, Jimmyowensfan20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmyowensfan20 Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 be sure and get wiring harness! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 be sure and get wiring harness! That won't be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmyowensfan20 Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 I just switched mine at the 2 big plugs on driver side of engine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmyowensfan20 Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Just a thought...Did you blead cooling system? After HG replacement refill? Was it full to begin with before over heating started? You could glass the motor if you want to drive it while you find and build a 2.2L.. Go get liquid glass at Auto Zone and with coolant system empty! Get the motor HOT..add glass with the bleeder cap off of radiator and pour in glass then water till you get flow showing. Put cap on let it run and get hot over normal operating temp and shut her down. After letting it set top off with anti freeze.. I've seen motors run better and for a long time after doing this! 20 buck fix..leaves engine with no life after death.. pretty much unrebuildable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q240z Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 Yup. Burped the system the same as always. Then I drove the car for months with the new gaskets and it never once even got warm...until I had people in the car and the AC on. So what's the scoop? Are these 1995 2.2 engines a clean swap out into a 1996 car with a 2.5 or do you have to get into the wiring? I'm seeing conflicting versions of the truth here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackusjunkus Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Clean swap...if ac car you will need to use the compressor bracket off the 2.5...the donor should have auto tranny so there is an egr valve. Thats it...too simple. Done a couple with no issues... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 If you try it...don't forget to swap the flex plate EJ 22 is smaller so it fits and all is fine untillllllllll you try and bolt up the torque con. yea this is expierence speaking vapor cannister and rear vapor cover swap- oil pump bolts tightening are also should do's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 I have this doc saved for these posts Going to make this simple for you as I have done the 2.5 to 2.2 on a Legacy Outback. I used a 97 2.2. From the donor car (450 dollars tops) 1) Engine / use the exhaust manifold from the 2.2 donor 2) AC Compressor and hoses from your 2.5 mount onto the 2.2 3) Metal Power steering lines from the 2.2 move them over 4) The fly-wheel from the 2.5 will have to be moved over to the 2.2. From Subaru 1) All new exhaust gaskets (10 dollars) 2) new o-rings for the AC hoses you disconnect 3) new o-rings for the power steering lines you disconnect From Walmart 1) 2 cans of 12 oz refrigerant and a refill hose (30 bucks) While you are at it replace this on the 2.2 donor (100 bucks) an easy to do with the engine out. 1) Harmonic balancer (50 ebay) 2) AC and Alternator belts (20 pepboys) 3) Rear cam seal (5 dollars) 4) Oil Separator Plate (sure to be leaking, original is plastic) (15 dollars) 5) Rear main seal. (20 dollars) 6) Spark Plugs (10 dollars) 7) PCV Valve ( 8 dollars) 8) Valve cover gaskets (2 of these) and grommets for the bolts (30 dollars) 9) Reseal the oil-pan and replace both gaskets that are internal. (RTV temp sealer 4 bucks, gaskets are 10 bucks) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q240z Posted June 14, 2007 Author Share Posted June 14, 2007 OK, we'll have to see what replies come in from folks who recommend the 1995 2.2. Also, I notice that you're talking about breaking AC lines without evacuating the system first, then replacing o-rings and 134-a without first vaccuuming the system or replacing the receiver/drier. I'd rethink those items if I were you. That advice isn't Subi specific. It applies to all AC systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 I did not disconnect my AC comp. when I did my swap. The bracket for it needs swapped though. As did the PS pump bracket IIRC I left it connected and just moved it to the battery tray. Mine is 134 from the factory. Thought all of this vintage were? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q240z Posted June 14, 2007 Author Share Posted June 14, 2007 I was thinking it could be done without breaking the AC lines. It woulda been nice if Subi had made those hoses just a teensy bit longer, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackusjunkus Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 You don't have to disconect the ps lines, just move the pump out of the way, the 2.5 line supports won't bolt up to the intake but it won't hurt anything that way. 2.2 and 2.5 ps brackets are the same. You don't even need to take off the hood...plenty of room. And, like Skip said, don't disconnect the ac, just move it out of the way. The 95 is probably best because only year for obd II, dual exhaust ports and non-interference design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmyowensfan20 Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 replacing the harmonic balancer is a waste of 50 bucks if it aint bent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackusjunkus Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 replacing the harmonic balancer is a waste of 50 bucks if it aint bent! +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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