91' loyale starting issues

[half_dingo]

greetings guys and gals,

 

im writing to you about a problem that i thought i had addressed a while ago but tonight it creeped back in. when it dosent start it wont turn over, just clicks and i am hearing something down by the automatic trans shifter on the floor. now ive looked through the archives and seen something about a switch in that area. it is kinda tough to shift from park to drive and vice versa but no biggie unless its causing this problem.

 

so to address this problem i replaced the starter just in case it was the solenoid but that didnt help. then i removed and cleaned all the cables/wire connections from starter to battery. this seemed to do the trick for a good while and i didnt have a starting problem for about a month until tonight. now every time it does this all i have to do is jump it and the car starts right up. thankfully a nice guy agreed to give me a jump in the grocery parking lot. so what do you think? i do appreciate any comments and am thankful for this forum of subie superstars.

 

peace

[DaveT]

I have 2 simple rigs that help hunt down this type of trouble. One is an LED (with resistor) with long wires. One wire goes to ground. Other goes to one of the many connections along the way to the starter. Look at LED, turn key. If the LED lights, you know voltage is getting to that point. Move to next suspect.

 

Th reason for this setup is that the LED can be taped to the dash indefinately for troubleshooting intermittant problems.

 

The second is a pushbutton switch with a connector for the starter (the flat female one) and a small battery clip on the other. If the key won't start, connect the emergency switch, turn key to run, press button.

 

If this doesn't work, it's the starter or the battery cables or the battery.

[GeneralDisorder]

Replace your ignition switch, or add a relay to the crank circuit (my preference). Your problem is the contacts inside the ignition switch are burnt, or the wiring under the dash is burned from prolonged cranking attempts.

 

Incidentally, DaveT's LED won't actully work for this problem as the culprit is not a *lack* of voltage, but a component that will not pass enough current to fully engage the starter solenoid. It's getting power, it's just sometimes not enough to overcome the solenoid spring.

 

I probably sound like an a$$, but we see this problem a lot on here, and with what you have already R&R'd it's a sure bet that your switch is toast.

 

GD

[daeron]

Replace your ignition switch, or add a relay to the crank circuit (my preference). Your problem is the contacts inside the ignition switch are burnt, or the wiring under the dash is burned from prolonged cranking attempts.

 

Incidentally, DaveT's LED won't actully work for this problem as the culprit is not a *lack* of voltage, but a component that will not pass enough current to fully engage the starter solenoid. It's getting power, it's just sometimes not enough to overcome the solenoid spring.

 

I probably sound like an a$$, but we see this problem a lot on here, and with what you have already R&R'd it's a sure bet that your switch is toast.

 

GD

I second GD's respopnse, and add my relay write up. The relay also doubles as a remote starter switch for one person timing adjustment, spark checking, fuel pressure checking, fuel Injector testing, compression testing, et cetera...

 

The starter clicky problem has a number of causes; first and cheapest, is to clean your battery cables. If you want to be thorough as can be about it, install a relay to bypass potential weak connections within the keyswitch circuit; install new battery cables; install a redundant ground strap or two or three; and buy a new battery. A pushbutton switch is just as good as a relay, depending on what you are anal about.. but whatever you decide to do to fix it, take your time isolating the problem to make sure you have fixed it well. Sometimes all of the above are required to finally put the starter issue to bed... Mine was taken care of by a junkyard starter, and some junkyard relay equipment, for the low low price of $20 and about six total hours of my time; I also learned ALOT in those six hours that will stand me in good stead for the rest of my automotive lifetime. Most of it is in that write-up.

 

hope this helps.

[Cougar]

Since the car starts with a jump I would have the battery cables checked for a problem along with having the battery and alternator checked.

[half_dingo]

Thanks a lot for all of your replies. I should have also noted that ive had the battery/alternator system checked at the local advanced and everything checked out good. also i am able to jump a wire from the battery to the small male connector (starter solenoid) on the starter and it turns over easily. if i do add a switch this is all ill be doing right? now i tried this in the parking lot last night but apparently my wire burned up since it was turning over one second and was too hot to handle the next. does the key have to be in the position just before starting to turn on the fuel pump while doing this?

 

thanks again for any comments!

 

P.S. Daeron i checked out your very well done write up but am hoping i can go the simple route with a on/off switch first before i have to go to the junk yard.

[Gloyale]

also i am able to jump a wire from the battery to the small male connector (starter solenoid) on the starter and it turns over easily. if i do add a switch this is all ill be doing right? now i tried this in the parking lot last night but apparently my wire burned up since it was turning over one second and the next the wire was too hot to handle the next. does the key have to be in the position just before starting to turn on the fuel pump while doing this?

 

 

This for sure means it's you're ignition switch. If you run a button directly make sure to put an inline fuse at the start of it. The key just needs to be turned to *on* and then press the button. Use a button not an on/off switch.

[GeneralDisorder]

It's really preferable to use a relay rather than a button as it retains 100% stock functionality - many vehicles use a relay for this function anyway. Relays are very simple things - don't be afraid to learn about them.

 

GD

[half_dingo]

ok i went to auto zone and picked up all the stuff for a push button setup.

 

thanks alot for the info!

[Cougar]

Your statement about the jumper wire getting too hot to touch may be a indication that the starter solenoid is drawing too much current and could be the reason you are having trouble now. I'm not sure how much the solenoid should draw but I would think it would be around a few amps.

[daeron]

I have never used a jumper wire... I use a screwdriver, and simply bridge between the starter end of the positive battery cable, and the solenoid terminal. works every time, and it is ALMOST as easy as using my key and relay

[half_dingo]

i installed the pushbutton setup today and replaced the battery cables too since they were original. i used a heavy duty push button and installed it in the dash. used a 12ga wire and a 15 amp in line fuse. it works great and will use it as a back up system in case the thing wont start. thanks for all of your input. i really enjoy owning a older subie and working on it. this site makes it so much easier and gives me confidence to work through problems on my own.

 

peace:banana: