TheLoyale Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I don't know what to do, I just did a oil change on my EA82 last night and put a OEM Subaru filter on and some Moble clean 5000 10w-30 in and she ran fine last night but today i've got a some what loud ticking coming from one of the drivers side valves! So i think it mite be dirt because once i did a motor flush and alot came out but now i've got this loud tick again!! Will this ticking wreck my lifter? And wreck me engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Is it the TOD tick??? I know my Loyale does the same thing right after an oil change.it will do it for about 10- 15 minutes for about a week...Does it go away after a few minutes? We have HLA and ticking is very very normal..its even in the owners manual. You know its probably an air bubble in the HLA and should work itself out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Run Chevron 10w40. The higher mileage EA82's do better with the higher viscosity - helps with the pressure and the ticking. You can add 1 quart of Dexron ATF in place of a quart of oil if the ticking is persistent, but the real fix is to replace the oil pump seals, and the cam case oil passage o-rings to get the pressure up, and keep the air out of the oiling system. A new pump may even be required. I prefer to fix the ticking as it will eventually become irrepairable without rebuilt lifters. Air causes them to compress and uncompress rapidly, and while they will never fail, they will wear to a point where they will tick forever as the wear will not allow them to hold pressure. No - it will not "kill" anything. Your rod bearings will fail before a lifter goes (poor oil pressure, and Fram filters will contribute to rod failure). GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 22, 2007 Author Share Posted June 22, 2007 Yeah Connie it's a constent tick i think because you said it take's about 10-15 min untill it stops? So i don't know maybe it's ok because i dident run it for 10-15 min but i did get the RPM's up by reving it a little. So maybe it'll go away? And GD i'm going to do a oil pump and timing belt job soon, I've got all the part's/seals 1.Oil pump and micky mouse gasget, O-ring, and seal. 2.Oil PSI sending unit 3.Left and right timing belt 4.Timing belt cover seals So i'm just waiting till my dad has the time to help me! Later, Tom............................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Get new tensioners and idler pulley also when you go do the timing belt change...save yourself from having to pull it all back apart when one of them goes:-\ ( need to do that on Bucky..his Idler pulley is whats making the racket cause I cheaped out and didnt buy new ones) And like GD said...I dont use ATF but I usually run seafoam...That was something I learned years and years ago..replacing one quart oil with ATF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 You should definately do the cam case oil passage rings while you are that far into the engine. It's only 8 bolts per side, and some RTV to put them back. The o-rings themselves are like $3 each. They are a metal reinforced o-ring as the originals were not and will collapse and suck air. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 When you put the cam towers back on, go ahead and spend a little extra $$$ and buy anearobic sealant. It dissolves into the oil so there's no danger of any small chunks getting caught in any oil passages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 drive the car around a while and dont be afraid to wind out a rev here and there. all that clean oil running around will eventually clean out or prime up in the lifters, and that nice new filter will catch any crap that may loosen up. by your next oil change it should be all right. the liftter noise may come and go, or go away and may be return if the car sits for a while. if the noise persists the oil pump seal may need changed. the anaerobic sealer they talk about would be the ultra grey permatex label or similar if you get too heavy into the work an need an extra wrench i live an hour away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 22, 2007 Author Share Posted June 22, 2007 Hey Connie what is seafoam?? Where do i buy it? and what does it really do?? I'll see about buying new tensioners and idler pulley, I was thinking about it but dident know if i should! And GD, The mony isent the problem it's the work! Is replaceing the cam case oil passage rings alot of work? Because my dad never did anything on a Roo! He like's American vehicles! Anyhoo i'll see about all of that ok! Where do i buy Seafoam??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 desmond jones has a whole case of it when they sponsored us on last year's babe rally. im going there tonight (waukesha)so if you knew where to find me i would have it. otherwise its between 4 or 5 bucks at napa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Hey Connie what is seafoam?? Where do i buy it? and what does it really do?? I'll see about buying new tensioners and idler pulley, I was thinking about it but dident know if i should! And GD, The mony isent the problem it's the work! Is replaceing the cam case oil passage rings alot of work? Because my dad never did anything on a Roo! He like's American vehicles! Anyhoo i'll see about all of that ok! Where do i buy Seafoam??? Tom..I get seafoam at Advance Auto...its $5+ a bottle..it will be with the marvels Mystery Oil brake fluid etc etc...there is a couple different types..make sure you get just plain old seafoam...there is also a tranny version...its a generic looking white metal bottle.. Seafoam is a cleaner..you can run it in your crank case..your gas tank...good stuff..many of us sware by it. Read the bottle when you get some it will tell you all its uses Dont cheap out like me ..but the tentioners and pulley....that way when this is all done you have no worries...do it all ..everything GD and Miles are saying about the cams etc and if you have a new water pump...or you dont have complete faith in the one thats on your car...get a new one and put it on at this time..remember the O ring for the upper tube too...they like to leak over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 22, 2007 Author Share Posted June 22, 2007 Hey, Yeah i'll go to Advance Auto or autozone they should have it too right? And is there a difrence between marvels Mystery Oil and Seafoam? And don't worry i'll get the right one! As for the cam case oil passage rings and O ring for the upper tube where is it onhttp://www.Rockauto.com can you tell me! I'll also have to look all this up in my Chilton book! Later, Tom/........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Frankly MMO and Seafoam are both just heavy detergent oils. ATF works the same way but I trust it's lubricating properties more (there's specifications that ATF has to meet - there are none for these "miricle" products). Try cleaning your engine bay with ATF . Plus it's cheap. Buy the Seafoam or MMO if you must but the results (for this application) will be the same. It's only a few $$ either way but I like to keep my inventory of fluids small, and I can use the ATF in the power steering system too. The cam case o-rings are availible from the dealer, or from thepartsbin.com. Rockauto's shipping prices are too high for me. Try subaruparts.com or 1stsubaruparts.com - both are dealerships IIRC. Changing them isn't that big of a deal once you are already doing the timing belts - you just remove cam and it's case (8 - 12mm bolts), and then the rest is cleaning and reinstallation. I prefer RTV for the cam cases as that is what the FSM calls for. Anerobic is used by some, but it's very costly, and doesn't fill the groove in the cam case well enough for me. Careful application of RTV and allowing it to cure for a few hours before attempting to start the engine will insure that none of it breaks off and enters the lubrication system. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 22, 2007 Author Share Posted June 22, 2007 Ok thank's GD, I'll check out those site's you gave me! I know about Thepartsbin.com but never heard of 1stsubaruparts.com so i'll check them too! I guess if i could see the inside of the EA82 and get a better idea i would feel better doing it anyhoo i'll see about it tho! Thanx alot, Tom............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 No worries - just tear into it and you'll be fine. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Yup Tom..I once again agree with GD...just tear into it..you have what you need...you have the HTKYSA and the FSM pdf from Loyale 2.7 Turbo..and you have this board... If you can...once you get the timing covers off..snap a picture so you can see where everything was. The O ring I am talking about...follow your upper Rad hose towards the water pump...you will see a metal "extention" tube...where that tube connects to the water pump is where the O ring is located. Just a thought..do you have an engine hoist ?...you do NOT need to pull the motor..but it may be easier the first time... We did it with Bucky..whole reseal etc in about 5ish hours...but that was about 4 or 5 of us working on it..that was pulling the motor..reseal ..replaced the clutch ..I did some brake work...and putting it all back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShakotanBoogie Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 here is a series of pics of a heads-up teardown and putbacktogether. http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/rxbuild/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 Alright thanx for the link! Anywayz my lifter on the drivers side stoped ticking! I guess Connie was right it was just an air bubble, I was runing it for about 15-20 min and it started to get softer and softer and then it stoped so i'm happy it wasent a clog! And about the oil pump/timing belts ok i guess we'll just tear into it! It won't be for a few weeks as is my dad had 2 blocked and colapst artri's around his hart so it runs in the family, He's all better! And he's just got a little pain were his right leg conecks to his pelvis because that's how they got a little tube in there to clear the plack away plus he's got a stitch. Anyhoo he's back home and doing good so..... Thanx for the help! Tom Draeger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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